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I'm trying to run my engine and everytime it fires up it runs for 5 seconds and drys up the bowls before the pump even has a chance to get pressure to it.
Then I have to disconnect the line and fill it by hand again. Then the same damn thing happens again.
I can't even describe how frustrated I am right now.
Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? Shouldn't the bowls be able to run it for at least a minute before going dry?
Do I need to take this stupid thing apart already?
I just took the top half off the carb so I could check the floats and make sure something wasn't sticking. Before I put it back together I filled the float bowls. I put the top back on, started it, it ran for 5 seconds and then died and wouldn't start again. I took the carb apart again so that there would be no question about what was going on in there.
The bowls were already empty.
The bowls on edelbrocks aren't that big, but STILL, what the heck is going on here? 5 seconds.
maybe its the brand of carb:LOL:
yeah, that's what I'm starting to think.
so far I'm not very happy with edelbrock.
this is bogus.
i have use a lots of them a they work very good . some thing is not rigth but you know that .is the power needle in the carb is the set up springs right it are the floats set to hi? two thing they dont like to much fule psi no more that 5 psi and to hi seting on floats:whacked:
Try this, unhook the coil wire, or the power to the coil and crank the motor for 5 to 10 seconds, that should draw fuel up from the tank and into the carb, if not then the pump is bad.
No carb will run without fuel. Pressure up your fuel tank and blow fuel up to the carb if the pump doesn't want to prime.
I have been filling the carb with fuel each time. I just disconnect the fuel line and hold it up and fill it with a funnel until no more will go in. Then I start it and it runs dry in 5 seconds.
The needles are in there and they have the factory step up springs. The floats are set exactly as the manual says they should be set and nothing is sticking on them.
I am going to replace the fuel pump, but regardless, it shouldn't be running dry that fast should it?
oh yeah, and I am using a pressure regulator set at 5.5, just like the manual says.
I have no idea what's going on, but I just wish my engine would start when I turned the key and then keep running. My lawnmower starts on the first pull for cryin out loud.
i know how to fix it
how?
with a sledge hammer?
no with a holley:LOL: but that hammer might work to:whacked: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
come on hammer heads i have used the edlbrocks on blower setups used them on street rods with 1/2 the time it take to get the gaskets of a holley to get edlbrocks running rigth. get a new fuel pump and check gas tank vent i don not know how long it take to run dry the bowls but i would say not much bowls are smaller then a holleys:LOL:
I am not pulling fuel from my tank yet, I'm just using a can right next to the pump, so it's not a venting problem.
The first thing I tried when I took the top of the carb off was blowing into the inlet. It went in fine through both floats and they closed off properly when I flipped it upside down.
I don't have a pressure gauge so I don't know what it is reading, I just have a pressure regulator on there now.
The first thing I'm gonna do monday is get a new pump, I actually just switched my pump but I used one I found in my closet because it looked in good shape. Bad judgement I guess.
The thing I'm most boggled about is why it's using up those bowls in a matter of seconds. I'm running a 226 @ .050 cam, could the vacuum be too low for the step up springs, so those needles aren't getting sucked down and letting too much fuel in?
if theres is no vacum the needles will stay up on the rich mix and run the fuel out??like a blown power valve on a holley this will dry out the bowl on a holley and make it run rich
it sould be on the idle circuit but. with the metering rods up this could be something to look at and try a electric fuel pump or a new pump and like denny said do you have the fuel pump rod in it/
Your trouble isn't the carb. Check that the pressure regulator is letting fuel through. Any pump should have had gas up to the carb by the time you burned the first bowl full. Take the regulator out of the system and try it, some pumps don't make enough pressure to cause any problem.
What kind of fuel hose and fittings are you running?
If it's stainless braided, it's possible you may have the hose/fitting incorrectly assembled and there is a cutter or flap that is on the inside of the hose which can block flow.
All of the hose rubber should be captured by the fitting which will leave the hose wide open.
Russell's used to be famous for this.
If you have Earl's or Aeroquip there should be no problem.
Is your float set for the proper drop?
Drop, not height.
Drop is described as, the float is only allowed to drop so far down.
Measure with the carb top upright.
If it's allowed to drop too far down, the float tab will be pressing sideways on the float and will not allow the needle to rise and shut off fuel flow.
You did set the float with the carb top upside down did you not?
If done backwards it's conceivable the float would only allow the needle to open a little ways which would not allow sufficient fuel in the bowl.
I'm in agreement that 5 seconds is way too short of a time for an engine to run with full bowls.
Even if the metering rods are staying up due to a spring too strong for the vacuum level at idle, the engine should still run longer than 5 seconds.
Does the carb have jets in it?
If you bought it used it's entirely conceivable the previous owner removed the jets for some reason and never put em back.
Do you get a lot of black smoke indicating extremely rich when the engine does it's 5 second run?
And last of all, do you have another carb you could bolt on and try.
That would tell you quite a bit.
I'm just using regular hose fittings, no fancy russell stuff.
The pump pushrod is in there.
The regulator is fine, it was working ok when I had the last pump on, it's just that I found some oil in my gas and I thought the pump was at fault, so I swapped it out. I will get a bran new one tomorrow.
I'm sure the pump is part of the problem as to why it isn't getting pressure up there, but that's an easy fix. . . I'm more concerned with the fact that the thing runs dry in 5 seconds.
The floats are all properly set, I followed the manual exactly for the settings with the top upside down and right side up.
The jets are in there too.
i think it s the pump lot guys think that not long but do not forget the accelerrator well is part of the one bowl and if it runs good it could be that the pump cant keep the prime to your can . three or four pumps will dry up one bowl and if you are pumping to keep it running for get it:whacked:
your right, I noticed that when I took the top off. BUT, the acc pump only draws from the top half of one bowl, once that bowl gets half empty no more fuel can be sprayed from it. And that still leaves the entire other bowl.
The last time I ran it I took the top off right away and they were both completely empty, and I filled them just before I put the top back on.
yes but thats not much .take out the seats and look at the them there is a small brass filter that push in the seat look for junk.this will not run long on 1 and 1/2 bowls or less you need to keep it runing and fine tune it .and see it the set up springs are rigth. i turn the top lids on the power valve to see were they are the bowl is not flat on the bottom so if the pump dont work i would not think this is pland way for it to run ? the main jets are at the back this is the deep part of the well and will not make it run on ilde :whacked:
i coulda had a holley running and sent to him by now:LOL:
pretty sure it is a pump problem--are you sure you have pump lines hooked up properly-maybe you are sucking gas back out of the carb. Could have lines reversed at pump.
well, the pump I am temporarily using has one permanent tube coming out of it and one threaded hole. The threaded hole is where the outlet usually is and it is the one on top, the tube coming out is on the bottom.
I assumed the threaded hole was for the pump outlet under pressure.
For anyone who has an edelbrock carb.
How do you set the choke valve so that it stops with the proper
clearance between the valve and the air horn?
Go here: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html
Excellent site, good advice and it works.
Is your fuel pump actually putting out fuel?
Hook up a long hose, connect one end of the hose to the fuel pump, drop the other end into a container, disconnect the coil wire, spin the engine with the starter and see if you're pumping fuel.
You could be chasing exotica and the problem could be very basic.
Done more of those than I want to admit to....
I replaced the fuel pump and now it runs and keeps running. I'm still a little concerned about why it was running dry so fast though.
Now I'm trying to get the choke all set up right because it still takes a couple tries to get it started.
If it were 50 degrees out I'd understand, but I know a carbureted engine is capable of starting right up when it's 75 out.
do your guys hot rods start right up when the engine is cold, or does it take a couple cranks sometimes?
Also, I checked out the edelbrock site, and that is the same thing that is in the manual that came with the carb.
It doesn't say anything about how to make the choke plate stop at the proper spot.
The wording makes it sound like it tells you, but it refers to bending a certain linkage rod, which only effects the movement of the fast idle cam, not the choke plate.
I've kind of gotten mine set up so that I pull it out all the way and then I back off a certain amount, but I'd rather just have to pull it out and know it is in the right spot every time.