Anybody have any experience with those noisy gear drives? any good? what brands?
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Anybody have any experience with those noisy gear drives? any good? what brands?
I've had lots of "experience" replacing them with chains when they quit working, does that count? You couldn't give me a set.
They create some very nasty harmonics in the engine that will pound valve trains to pieces... I'll take a good double roller chain any day.
OH NO!!Quote:
Originally Posted by gottabuild1
Here we go again on gear drives.:eek:
Advice on gear drives - don't. Really . . . . don't.
Another point a guy brought up at coffee the other day against gear drives, all those nasty old harmonics must also transfer into the distributor and eventually start pounding all those neat little electronic gizmo's apart....Whatcha think????
that is what i was thinking, thanks for the info, would love to go the jessel belt drive route but thats alot of mony:eek:
Grumpy Jenkins used to run the nylon/plastic tooth stock chev type stuff
Dampened out the dpark scatter caused by the harmonics
Course he changed them every night
Jerry
i hope you was not thinking of one for your 632?:3dSMILE: i will not put one on or build any engines with one. like said there great for transfer harmonic thru the valve train can you say busted springs .just buy a good chain set like a rollmaster and call it good .if you want a jessel i maybe have a good used oneQuote:
Originally Posted by gottabuild1
yes he did they used a wide tooth one i think ? you can not get them any more less new old stock GMQuote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
hey you.. when am i getting the slant 6:3dSMILE:i have some 4.500 od sleeves for it. i was thinking run the block dry filler her up to the top of the deck with block rock :whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
You will get it soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
I still am doing all the CNC work on the billet alu. head.
Now where did I put those 2.30 intake valves??:whacked:
have some nice tit 2.400 big chiefs i will just trim them down to 2.300 :3dSMILE:may have to re cut the keeper groove no big deal less you want to double stackup the valve springs :whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
dont buy a gear drive, get a tru dbl roller or belt
What i really want is the jessel front drive, comes with the belt drive and front drive distributor that runs off of the belt drive, also have been looking at a crank trigger ignition, i allready have a 7AL3 box, i think that is what it is if i remember right, and it can be used with the msd crank trigger ignition, anybody ever run a crank trigger? what ahppens with the internals in the distributor?
go with a tru dbl roller
Here is some of the ignition parts that i am thinking of using
crank trigger distributor
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...=MSD8558/424.0
crank trigger kit
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...=MSD8620/424.0
also on my 7al-3 box i forgot, it got toasted, no warranty because it was a swap meet buy, so for the ignition box i am not sure hich one i want to get, maybe sometime in the future i might want to go with a 200 shot of nos nothing to crazy so i would like an ignition that will accomadate the nos if i ever decide to do it. Has anybody ever had any experience with this ignition from msd? i have used an msd 6 box that i have had for years and havent had a problem with it,
there is no need to run any crank tiggers for this build less you are going to run a dfi or race it. i have used MSD for 10 + years there stuff is as good or better then anything out there. the 6 AL works for the street. the 7AL box and the tigger with the belt drive would be for very limted street use and the front drive dist will get in the way of any belts all this stuff is for allout drag racing or if you want THE LOOk then there will be things that will need to be overcome
Pat is right , what you are wanting to use is all out drag racing equipment and the gear drive is a good set up for street or strip but they can be very loud, you can buy waht they call a quiet one but it is still loud. if you dont mind the whine get one.
NO SORRY no gear drive for any thing. if this build gets a soild roller cam with any lift the springs will get work on hard and with added harmonincs with the gear drive will be much harder on any parts. my goal when building a engine this to stop added harmoninces i would never added any part to any engine knowing it would add more harmonincs the ROLLMASTER is the chain sets i have use in many builds that what i would use or the belt
Glad I saw this thread - as I was about to order an E-brock quiet version (p/n7892) before I hung the rest of the car on the frame this winter. I'll just keep the Cloyes Tru-Roller set up and forget about it forever.
that it will. what do you think what happens to the roller lifter needle bearings they see it right off:eek: this stuff could keep you up all night:HMMM:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Seems like most folks strongly disagree with that advice.Quote:
gear drive is a good set up for street or strip
-double roller timing chain
-msd pro billet distributor
-digital 6 msd ignition box, has timing retard for starting and also for nitrous applications if i ever add it
i am trying to build this engine as cheap as possible but i have problems looking thru the catalogs aand seeing all that neat s--t!!!! lol thanks for keeping me on track guys
I ran a Jackson gear drive in my Monte and put 20k miles on it with no problems. The noise was OK at 19 years old but no more. :LOL:
I have heard in here a lot about 'harmonics' but I have never seen any data or FFT of the torsional response in the cam system in any engine to verify exactly what that issue might be. Sure seems to be plausible in my gut but with all the oil lubrication there is also much squeeze damping residing inside the engine as well.
Anyhow I will not use a gear drive again ...............
Kitz
I bought an 83 monte carlo yesterday and gutted it today for the roll cage. I got the cage, seats, seat covers, 5 points, fuel cell, battery relocate kit, complete 9'' rear that i will tear down and have it narrowed but just for minitubs, got a good deal on the axle, $20 hehe, just need the drop spindles, ladder bars/coilovers etc.
use art morrision coil over's and ladder bars :D
Nothing beats a 4-link for versatility. Ladder bars are lousy on the street as they try to use the differential housing as a torsion bar. Yes, they are simple and easy to tune for the strip but a 4 link is good for both street and strip.
John
my last car had ladder bars on it and i have no complaints, worked very well for me so that is what i will be going with
hey 41willy's i see your from iowa, i am in council bluffs, you should bring that beast of yours down to the strip by glenwood if you havent allready been there
oh and i forgot, when i got home i opened the trunk of the car to find brand new tie rod ends (all 4 ) new adjuster collars, new ball joints, brake pads and 1 new rotor, that there is worth more than i paid for the car, woohoooo
gottabuild1,
Never been to Glenwood, we spend most of our time at either Cordova or Tri-state raceways up by dubuque. I glenwood 1/8th or 1/4?
If you run ladder bars make sure they have good rod end protectors on the fronts and keep a close eye on the housing tube welds to the center section. I have seen many with welds crack at that point. many years ago before we started putting back braces on the housings, I even had the pleasure of dumping rear end grease on the starting line, which they absolutely hate,
when the housing tube broke completely off. What a revolting development that was. kind of difficult to get the car out of the way too, tends to waste a lot of the track officials time and patience.:(
you need hard data :3dSMILE: well the last 470 bbc engine i work on the cam and roller lifters were trash engine and had a gear drive crank was crack thru out . I CAN SEND YOU 120 POUNDS OF $HIT that i do not see go bad is it seam to do when a gear drive is add to the mix :3dSMILE: that may not be your hard data .just heavy :3dSMILE: that engine did not leave with one on it when done .to say you can not VERIFY when they use strait cut teeth and have added lash you shoulds know well they will make added HARMONICS:3dSMILE: you can not say that strait cut teeth with added lash will not added to HARMONICS ?and oil should not be used to dampen a pice of $hit it would take very thick oil like 90 DATA if it sounds bad then i will say it is doing some thing in time thats not good for the engine. it is hard to keep alive valve train in a big roller engine valve springs cost is about 350. for ok springs and good soild roller lifter are 300 .why not try to get the most out of your parts ?THAT WOULD NOT BE A GEAR DRIVE and not use any thing that could not help the life span of the engine. to say that the data may not be there and any one still puts in the part then i would say you are not a engine builder that is not thinking muchQuote:
Originally Posted by kitz
I run ladder bars on single leafs street and strip... it's okay. The ride on the street is a bit rough and I won't be flying around many corners, especially on 16.5" wide mickey's but never had any problem hooking it up on the strip....
Two cents,
-Chris
ladder bars work ok. not very good on bad roads my chevy has them on it and i floated the rear end and rides good .i just would not use the track rod on the street. had one car was very loose going in a corner . go to a panhard bar keeps the body and rear end center to the car so when you turn in to a corner the front of the car is working with the back of the car with the track rod there is a disonnect to the front of the car to the back
^^^ agreed... I try very hard to avoid potholes, man hole covers, dips, you name it because the ladders are not very forgiving of rough road... and don't corner worth a darn...
but you can take the corners slow and more than make up on the straight away :D
not so i give you a ride in my chevy :3dSMILE: thing is like on rails man:3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by skids72
^^^ how wide are the gumballs?
i for get ?:eek: first sign old age or to many drugs when young they are comp T/A as big as you can get under the back of a 50 about 10inch
That's cool... I should have been speaking more of ladder's in general but I was referring to the ladders I have on a narrowed rear with 31x16.5x15 mickeys which don't like to corner... I have no doubts about your setup and would love to go for a ride if I ever make it to the neighborhood :LOL: