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so i've pulled my engine and awaiting my cam in the next couple of days. it is a hydraulic roller cam and i need to check the piston to valve clearance. issue is it is a hydraulic lifter. how do i set lash properly without the plunger bottoming out in the lifter and making my clearances in accurate?
use a very lite set up spring on the in and the ex set the lash at O .on the valves they need to be very lite you can pick up springs at a hard ware store. some test spring take to much lbs .you will want to check mid lift so you know your push rods are right for the lifters and rocker arms and cam all this comes in to play seeing no ones rockers and lifters are not the same
i understand that. thank you for the quick reply. but the issue is i was going to use the clay method. and wheni turn the engine over it will depress the plungers when i try to to make the impressions. sorry i was not clear before. but if i use lite springs the plunger will over come the light check springs and i could check with a dial indicator. what to do
i do not use clay i check on over lap and all the way thru but i use a dial in or feeler gauge but i done so many i know what is 080+ by looking at them
ok. so if i just installed light springs on I and E and at the 20 btdc and 20 atdccheck for the amount of space between the rocker tip and the valve stem tip correct. and what about side clearance of the valves?
well if you have two springs then you just check over lap and check the intake valve gets in the way of the piston as for checking side clearance where ? valve to valve relief room ? yes valve stem center line to rocker tip /roller tip contack point is to center line of valve at mild liftQuote:
Originally Posted by Jason383454
yes i belive there is clearance there but i was getting little worried about it. they are only 2.19/1.88 valves so they are not extremely big. just to make sure the side of the valve does not contact the valve relief of the piston.
mark the pistons with layout past or art oil past paint .marker pen will work as well put piston @ tdc the with the spring off spin the valve with your hand with head on the block this should make a mark on the pistons .when i need to fly cut i have made up a pick punch out of old valves and just go from center line of mark to tell me if i have room this will work to . but your valves are not big but check it any ways if i have alot over 080+ of PV room i do not check it
if i don't have to pull the heads i won't. i'll try the light springs first. if i had more than enough clearance like that then i should be ok for side clearance. they are not hugely domed. i just don't want to play patty cake with my valves. if i have clearance issues then i will pull heads and try both your paste way and the caly as well. i'm sorry but i'm new at this part of clearancing and have never had to worry about it before
thank you for bearing with me and helping
clay is not going to work your just going to push the plunger down before you get any good reading in it .i have used a solid roller lifter if i use clay but i do not use it any more for pv checking but still used clay for other thingsQuote:
Originally Posted by Jason383454
ok. i
ll do the light spring and feeler guage method. now i should be able to find light springs at a hardware store so i'll head there tomorrow. they just have to be close to the outside diameter. about pound 5 lb springs
they can be much smaller the ones i have are about 3/4 ID and are very lite less then 5 lb they just need to hold up the valve and the valve seal if a PC type will just about do the job with any test spring it allQuote:
Originally Posted by Jason383454
cool i will find some springs tomorrow and hope my cam shows up tomorrow as well
To answer your original question:
Pat touched on it when he advised using solid roller lifters. That's fine if you're a builder and have solid rollers laying around that you can use. For the home builder, that's not an option. What I and others have done in the past is to disassemble two lifters and remove the innards, replacing them with shims or spacers of the correct diameter and thickness to shim up the interior of the lifter body to the bottom of the pushrod cup with the snap ring installed. It's difficult to shim to the exact point where you can get the snap ring seated, but you can get close. After your PV checking, you can return the two lifters to their original use as a hydraulic and go ahead with the build. Optionally, if you have old hydraulic rollers to spare, is to disassemble and fill with shims or JB Weld, then replace the pushrod cup and snap ring. Using JB Weld, you can get it dead nuts. These will then become toolbox items to be used in subsequent builds. You could check with some of the local automotive machine shops. They may have a couple of hydraulic rollers they will give you or sell cheaply that you can modify. Make sure they are the same length from roller to pushrod cup as the lifters you will use so that effective pushrod length (lobe to rocker) will be the same as the length you will use in your build.
yep i have some like that as well with a flat lifter cam . but some retro lifters you can not get the valving out of the lifter .with the link bar on it they can not be removed from the lifter as it must be the last step in building the retro roller lifter so if you are going to do it this way .tell me what make they are i may have one you can rework i use more then one roller lifter so i do it another way
they are edelbrock retro fit rollers
well thats fine but call them and ask who makes the lifters for them. if they will tell you if not snap a photo .then i can tell you who may have made the lifters . i have some speed pros that may work fine for testingQuote:
Originally Posted by Jason383454
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ter_kits.shtml
they are the second one down.
i am still awaiting the arrival of my cam. i did instal some check springs and for the hell of it i checked the travel at tdc. 0.510 on intake and 0.340 on exhaust. so far it is looking good as long as with the cam the exhaust don't stay open for too long
that looks to be a isky lifter in photo .as for plunger height of roller lifter you can use any make roller lifter will work for PV checking if you have some adjustable pushrod checker .you should have them any way to get the rigth push rods at mild lift less they are selling you the right length push rods? i just check them at mild lift and buy trend push rods for the job
i have the matched pushrods coming for the cam. i do have length checkers and i'll be double checking them when i am sure of clearance. still waiting for the cam. its been two weeks now. i paid extra to get it here in 7-10 days. this is getting annoying. we have no good performance stores in calgary, alberta
Woo Hoo! i got my cam. it is in and i have one small issue. 0.005" small to be exact. my piston to valve clearance on exhaust is 0.331" LOTS. my intake on the other hand is 0.075". thats just not quite the 0.080" mark. will i be safe with that or should i move up to the 0.054" head gaskets instead of 0.039". please pat or tech inspector. tell me what you would do in my situation. my heads are still on at this moment. oh and it is straight up timing for the cam shaft.
you should be fine if all holes are that i runned them much closer
i checked three and one. one was the closer. 3 was 0.002" more space. so yay. i'm so happy. this has been ruining my sleep for two weeks almost