Pat my springs are set up completely stock, I will measure today and see what I have.
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Pat my springs are set up completely stock, I will measure today and see what I have.
well I spent the day in my shop and discovered a few more things. First the bore has very little ridge but the rings have .165" end gap on the top ring ( and they were so sharp I sliced my thumb:mad:) Next I lucked out and found the cam card and here is what I have, .502/527 lift with 214/224 duration@.050 and a 107 lsa. My spring apear to be 1.52" wide with a 1.85" installed height, these numbers may be a little off cause all I had at home was a digital caliper. So I am guessing these are bone stock springs cause the heads are some old 219's that got pulled off a grain truck and rebuilt. so based on this info, does anyone have a spring recomendation that I can use without changing retainers and all that.
yep you use a 1.850 spring like i told you use a GM HO marine spring as thats about what that cam is. look at competition products for springs they have what you need .sounds like you have the worng rings on your engine your saying there ..165 :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by clinto
ya here is a pic of that end http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/y...1/IMGP0543.jpg
Pat, help me understand why the Comp 911 wouldn't work. It would install at 1.850" @ 140 lbs and the over-the-nose pressure would be 336 lbs @1.323".
I'll admit to not having built a BBC for a number or years where you do it every day, but I need to know so I don't make a mistake if I get the inclination to put one together. (been eyeballin' the classic GMC Motorhome,'73-'78) and it definitely needs a good fat block.
just checked cp website and the 454-502 HO spring is the one I think Pat is talking about, if so I will order some up tomorrow. they are very reasonably priced too, thanks for the info Pat.
buy the kit your retainers may not fit the springsQuote:
Originally Posted by clinto
yeah the retainers only add 30 bones to the price so I will definately order the kit. One final question, should I run my camshaft straight up or retard it. I am currently making 18" of vac and I only need 15. I had it advanced 4 degrees but I was thinking of going back to 0 to gain a few more revs.
well you could run them at 140 lbs but that more then i would like to see on a small cam flat cam . thats about what i put on hyd rollers and not worry about wipping out a cam that cam only needs about 85 and 256 any thing over 6000 would be 128 and 335 . if it was a roller i say go for it just not a big fan on hi lbs on a flat hyd cam . he can do what ever he wants:DQuote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
here is another pic of my work in progress, I decided to do it in frame to save time but I kinda wish now I had just pulled it outhttp://i778.photobucket.com/albums/y...1/IMGP0544.jpg
Thanks Pat.:3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
well I ordered the spring kit today should be here later this week, should I run that cam straight up or advanced. just about everything I read says not to retard cams and straight up is prefered.
here is the new ring and an old one beside it, this should help with compressionhttp://i778.photobucket.com/albums/y...1/IMGP0547.jpg
Push that ting down into the cylinder at about where BDC would be and remeasure, want to make sure you don't have to much taper and seize her up.
Keith
I just got her fired up and man what a difference. It actually sounds like it has a cam now. Being that this is a relatively stock iron headed bbc, how much timing should I run. I was running a lot of advance before but this motor was also a hurting wreck. My ignition is an hei with a msd module and coil and the vac advance locked out. this truck has 2 throttle positions, Idle and floored, so based on this what would be a safe timing ( bear in mind this thing has zoomies and there is no way I can hear pinging.)