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no you do not have to go thru solids any more then one or two times a year i use solids in all my own builds but for most all street and mild strip use the hyd roller is the way to go. you keep thinking that 520 is a deal and it is ok . BUT you do know there 3 makes howards hyd roller lifters and the ones in then kits are lower rpm lifters .i have some hi hp solid roller cam to :)
so you think it would be better to buy the cam and lifters sperately? I don't want to waste my money on junk lifters, i want to build this right the first time. I'm thinking about the hyper speed pros you were talking about and a hy. roller around .570-.600 lift, somewhere around there, I think it will be a good streetable combo for my truck that will run on 91 pump gas.
lifter is not junk there not there hi rpm lifters you just have to know what rpm your going to
what kind of rpm are we talking, are they good up to at least 6,000?
well they should be go to 6000to 6500 but you will have to ask what lifter your getting in the$520 kit on them street build i use a very strong spring with a seat at 145 and 300+ openQuote:
Originally Posted by slammed84
What lift will that spring take? Will it be too much for a .570-.600 lift cam?
springs i use can take a 650 lift but that with the retainer that i know works and what setup height i have on the heads so there more to it then just the springs you need to know how much setup height you have but at time it is how much you can get as some spings need more setup up for taller spring with more lift, were you can get more set up is with .keeper /locks. .retaners. longer valves. last thing.cutting the spring pockets .last thing . for cutting the heads i do not care much for cutting the heads .i will if i am looking for less then 060 for shim and done every thing listed
I've got a couple of questions.
This is a street truck right!!!
Are you running a stall converter if not with 6,000rpm's you should be.
In my opion if your not running a stall converter you should try to keep
you rpm top end range down around 4,500 rpm's.
That will give you the power off the line that you will expect from your big block.
Other wise it's gonna be like a big fat pig trying to get up out of the mud and you won't like that. The other thing is in my opinion I have been using Erson cams for 30 years and the price for them is hard to beat on a great cam shaft, thats race proven in the dirt and the street.
Kurt
yes this is a street truck and will see some track duties as well. I haven't got a converter yet but am planning on getting around a 2500-3000 stall. with the weight of my truck I imagine it will actually stall a little lower but as long as its better than stock and affordable its cool with me, i dont have the $ to spend 400-500 dollars on a torque converter. As for Erson, I can't really find any info about them, every time I try to go to their web-site its not theirs!! So if you have a link to a good website send it my wayQuote:
Originally Posted by vara4
there on free lunch on torque converter buy cheap junk you end up with junk and less money . as for Erson i have been a dealer thru them for some time .try looking thru PBM /EPW .www.pbm-erson.comQuote:
Originally Posted by slammed84
what brand of converter would you recommend? Hughes any good? what about TCI ? I can't find the street Hyd. Rollers on that erson website. where are they?
well i can not tell you what they have on there web site as i have there catalog and have had many custom cam s ground from them . i told you what cam to use :) as for converter i used Coan but use what ever you want just do not buy a cheap one or that bbc will eat itQuote:
Originally Posted by slammed84
Slammed,
Im no engine building expert, but I do know from sad experiences (didnt learn the first time) that buying a cam here, lifters there, a converter off E Bay and using some of the stuff you found in your mates shed, invariably results in a compromise that doesnt perform as well as a well matched package, or anywhere near as well as you expected.
So please, take this opportunity to learn from my mistakes.
And go to one source you trust (Pat looks good to me) and give him your specs, tell him what you need to achieve and ask him to design you a package and then buy the parts from the one source.
Maybe it will cost a little more up front, but trust me, it will be the cheapest and best option long term, because you will get what you want first time out.
well thanks for your input, but plans have changed slightly now. I was decided on buying pistons so I got the idea to get a crank too. The motor I bought wasn't in the best shape ( as far as the cylinders). It was supposedly ready to build. Not even close. S I am goind to buy a Scat 4.25 crank and we are going to go ahead and bore it out to .100 over. With that combo it will be a 505. So far I haven't bought any internal engine parts from individuals except for the original purchase. I still haven't decided on a cam yet but Howards has some good hydraulic rollers right up my alley. On a tight budget but don't plan on cutting corners building-wise. Just can't afford a forged crank or new heads.
You may want to check out the Lunatti Voodoo .575 roller