Gen.VI 454 build

New member here,and I will admit that in most cases,I know just enough to get me in trouble,so please understand my (sometimes dumb) questions.This is my first time messing with a bbc,much less messing with anything non-stock.My block is a Gen.VI 454.Crank and rods are from a 502,so essentially I have a 454HO bottom end for starters.All in the m/c getting prepped,bored,etc.Soon it's gonna be time to select the pistons and cam.SOOOoo,the other half (heads) of this engine are Chevy Performance #19331424,2.19"in.valves and 1.88" ex.valves.
Bowtie Oval-Port Aluminum Cylinder Head Assembly: GM Performance Motor
I've been researching and it looks like the heads are identical to/built by Edelbrock.Further research indicates the sparkplug holes have been relocated toward the center of the chamber,so,no problem as I've found SRP's that look suitably applicable to these heads:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending
Now to the camshafts I have narrowed down:

BBC 454 to 470 CID with GM Edelbrock Roval Heads to a max of 6000 rpm - Clay Smith Cams

BBC 454 to 470 CID

http://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/12366543.htm

Keep in mind that there are 2 versions of my heads-2.19" in.valves or 2.25" in.valves,and both would have 1.88" valves.

Would like some input in a combination.This is going in a "69 El Camino,12 bolt posi w/3.42's,TH400 w/2000 stall that will mainly be a street car.Manners are mute,but would like reliability and strength.

Cam will want 10.75:1 SCR, 3000 stall, 10" diameter converter and more gear. 12" converter with the fins bent over will not do it for you. Engineer squish/quench to 0.035" to 0.040" for detonation protection on a load of poor pump gas. Alter by cutting the block decks.
Be very careful of buying cam and roller tappets separately. I have found that the best plan is to buy the cam and rollers from the same cam grinder. I also like Howards, so here is a kit that is in the same ballpark as what you're looking at......CL120326-08

Also, the word you were looking for is moot, not mute.

.

Which cam needs that?

Which cam needs that?

Either one of the Clay Smith cams or the Howards that I recommended. Your third link in inactive, so I have no idea what it was all about. You really don't need that much SCR or that much cam to have a good street/strip vehicle, not with that many cubic inches.
Why don't you just consider building a little less motor and pull back on the cam and converter. Here is a Howards that I might use in such a build.....
CL120246-10 cam and roller lifters
Advertised duration 278/284
0.050" duration 225/231
Hydraulic Intensity 53
Valve lift 0.567"/0.578"
Intake centerline 106
Exhaust centerline 114
Lobe Separation Angle 110
Power range 1800-5400
Noticeable idle, Street Performance.
Should have 2000+ stall converter, minimum 9.5:1 SCR. (2000+ stall converter means 2500 stall converter), (minimum 9.5:1 means 9.75:1 or 10.0:1)
.

Bingo,I thought those CS cams seemed a bit more than I'm wanting.But I mentioned them as,well this one:
BBC 454 to 470 CID with GM Edelbrock Roval Heads to a max of 6000 rpm - Clay Smith Cams
is said to be catered for the heads I have.I'm seeing the same with pistons being catered to these heads:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SRP-212135-8/
something to do with the spark plug (hole) being more toward the center of the combustion chamber (now I hear this after it's been a couple of months since I got them).I'm hearing that 10-10.5 cr is tolerable in an aluminum head...9.5 as a precaution to bad fuel ?

I have an idea that we may never hear from you again, because I'm not telling you what you think you want to hear. I'm 75 years old, have been doing this stuff for over 60 years and I often have to tell fellows what they don't want to hear.

I will take this opportunity to explain to you that you size a converter by matching the stall speed with the low operating range of the cam. If the cam has an operating range of 1800 to 5400, for instance, then you need to add 500 rpm's to the low point of the range and size the converter at 2300 or round it off to 2500. A 2500 or even a 3000 stall converter is a very easy drive in a street car, not radical at all.

Best of luck to you.
.

It was so much easier back 60 years ago when people could push down a pedal with the left foot, raise the right foot a little bit( or leave it flat on floor board), shift a gear, let up on the left foot, and immediately get ready to do it a couple more times before we got to the next fence row(distance of corn field was usually 1/4 mile)

then they were called race cams-either 3/4 or full race!!!!!!!!!!

I replied to you yesterday afternoon.Maybe I wasn't logged in or somthing/also been getting "you don't have permission" windows when trying to respond.Anyhow,I value and respect your input,as I can tell you are versed in these arts.Back to the subject at hand (provided THIS post goes through) you just pinned about what I'm after.Those cam suggestions that I originaly posted were based as "being for my heads".

I'm missing my 4 speed already.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Am4wag

I replied to you yesterday afternoon.

---

Mod Note: As a new user here, any post you make with a link embedded in it must be approved by the moderator before it can be seen by the general forum. This is done to prevent SPAM, for which I have to take care of as well.


Bill S

I figured this.However,it wasn't intended,more like unbeknownst......trying to get input on a recipe to get at or near something mentioned in post #5,not only camshaft.

I went with this cam,along with lifters and rockers from Crower:
https://www.crower.com/camshafts/che...ate-model.html
Still collecting parts and waiting for everything to get completed in the machine shop.Got 10.2cr pistons from Racetech to match my heads,770 Street Avenger and a Weiand Stealth intake.

Hey guys, new to the site and was looking for some help on a Gen VI big-block build.
The motor in my 99 K2500 crew cab (Gen VI 454) developed an ugly knock, I found a good deal on replacement with only 20k on it.To the best of my knowledge, the new motor is a factor long block, with no additional work done to it. Before I swap the motors, I was thinking about making a few upgrades like cam and springs. I can find lots of info on massive hp builds, but not much in the way of daily driver builds. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Any thoughts on cam and spring upgrades?
Plan on keeping fuel injection..is that a bad idea?
Will I need a new tune if I change cam and springs?
Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks

Welcome to the forum. Not to be negative in any way, but you need to start a new thread as opposed to tagging on to an old thread that's been dead for a while. The reason is that when the thread pops up, it't tagged with the old start date and owner ID, not yours. That's all I'll add, leaving the BBC details to those who know far more than I on the subject.

Thanks, will do