400 chev or 383?

I don't know what's going on with this engine but somethings not right. The machine shop you brought it to for cam removal must not be the same machine shop that built the engine. What happened to the engine from the start? Why did the cam gall up? If the engine only had 200 miles on it and it had that kind of problem with the cam, it must have been some serious oiling problems or extreme dirt problems. No engines will make it under those extremeties. Find out why the cam galled and that will point out why the walls are shot. Whomever built the engine should be liable for the repair cost. Short rod 400s do egg shape the cylinders but not in 200 miles. I ran a short rod 383 for 4 hard years on the street and then sold it to a friend who re-ringed it and ran it for another 3 years on the street before cracking the stock 400 crank. You got to get to the root of your problem before you sink anymore money in this engine.:confused:

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Originally posted by onemangang
Anyone know of any proven 400plus HP buildups for a SBC 400. On Pump gas.

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Here is my engine on Pump Gas, Look at the dyno sheet in the link provided:
My SBC 409

Engine Block: 400 SBC ID# 330817/14y139664/ T0508CSU
(4.125 bore X 3.750 stroke) after .040 bore (4.165 bore x 3.75 stroke =409)
Deck Plate Bored, Mains Align Honed, Block Deck .000, Deck Plug Holes & Tap w/3/16 Holes, Starter Bolt Drilled, Front Three Gallery Plugs Tap for ¼ Pipe Plugs.

Crank: Scat 4340 Crank 3.750 6.00, Internally Balance, Part# 4-400-3750-6000

Bearing: Clevite– MS1038H Mains and CB663H Rods

Piston: Wiseco Pistons, .040 over, 5.4cc; 430 grams, Part# PT020H4

Rods: Eagle ESP 4340 H-Rods 6.0, Part# CRS6000B3D

Block: Zero Deck: 0.000

Compression Ratio: Static-10:44 Dynamic-8:27

Cam: Grind: Solid Lunati/ (Recommended by Harold Brookshire)
280/284F10 .525/.530 Lift, 247/251@.050, 159/162 at .200, .500/ 504 valve lift, 2500-7000 RPM, Installed Straight up, .026" Valve Lash Hot, .026 Adjustment Range: .018" to .030" Hot.

Valve Springs: Lunati Part#73124 130 Seat 330 Open.

Heads: Airflow Research 195 Part# 1035 w/23º valve angle, 74cc, drilled steam holes.

Head Gasket: Fel-Pro-1014 / .039 in. compressed thickness, 4.200 in. bore, 9.0 cc compressed volume

Intake: Edelbrock RPM #7101

Carb: Speed Demon 750 Mechnical…www.Pro-System.com 750 Carb in the future

Transmission: Pro-Built Street/Strip 700R4

Stall Converter: A.C.T. 3000 Stall

Rear End: Strange Engineering 12 Bolt 3:73 S/S 35 Spline Axles

Brakes: Front: Z06 Corvette Calipers w/ 13” Rotor Rear: LS1 Claipers w/ 12” Rotors

Exhaust: Hooker Super Comp headers 1 3/4 Headers part # 2210-1 ceramic coated;
Hooker Super Competition high flow cat-back exhaust system, Intermediate pipe: 3 in.

Here is some photo's of the Camaro:
http://community.webshots.com/user/dtl504

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Originally posted by onemangang
Anyone know of any proven 400plus HP buildups for a SBC 400. On Pump gas.

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If i was you i would go down to the local junk yard and look for a rebuildable core. Something older with a whole lot of nickel. Inspect the bores yourself and dont pay anymore than 100 bucks.

You allready have your 400 crankshaft. Check for tapper , out-of-round, and endplay. If its in good working condition theirs your stroker.

I think it would be good to get a strong 350 use the 400 crank and rods. Bore it .040 and then you will have a 385 small block. Thats not to short of a 400's capabilities.

I don't really like small blocks with such a big stroke because you have to use such short rods. This causes harsh and fast cylinder wear. 400's were always known for this problem. Personally I'm working with a 293 GenIII small block. I already makes 300hp stock and it uses a 6.125 rod. I'm going to bore it to about a 340 then cam and bolt-on's. But I also have a nice fuel injection system to and six bolt main caps.