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i just bought a 350 short block that .30 over (which makes it a 355 right? well i just gotta clean out the cylinders and hone them, then a rebuild. its a 2 bolt but im going to race it on and off. I want to run high 13's in a Gen III camaro. What would you guys recommend as far as cam size/duration and heads. I plan on running a Holley 750
First off, don't get offended, but the block is not .30 over. That would be three hundred thousandths. It's 0.030" over or thirty thousandths.
The best heads currently available that are affordable and iron are the Chevrolet L31 Vortec units, part number 12558060. they are fully assembled with valves, springs, keepers and retainers for $249.75 each at Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet ( www.sdpc.com ). With the springs supplied, they are limited to a valve lift of 0.450", but can be ordered modified for 0.525" lift under part number SD8060A for $324.75 each. You have to use a Vortec intake manifold with them, but most guys will want to change manifolds anyway.
The camshaft should be the last thing you order because you must tailor it to your specific static compression ratio and intended usage.
Use this same thread to ask questions as you work your way along and some of us on here will be glad to answer your questions, including helping you pick a cam when the time comes.
You might want to order a Scoggin-Dickey catalog online. It's free.
P.S. read this paper I wrote on compression ratio to get a good idea of your actual ratio as you plan your build....
http://streetmachinesoftablerock.com...opic.php?t=124
www.sdpc.com is for San Diego Precast Concrete, Inc. Can I get a manifold from them...??? :)
Try www.sdpc2000.com
Thanks BigRed, my bad :eek:
HMMMM.....precast concrete....I've had intakes that felt like they were made by San Diego Precast Concrete Company.
thanks techinspector1 im not offended at all its my fault. thanks for the info!
oh, i was also told a 350 block .030 over was a 355 is this true?
yep
ahhh i see. right now i gotta clean and hone the cylinders. will a honer take off surface rust? theres a little bit in one cylinder
nevermind on that one i used a honer and it cleaned those cylinders up perfectly
Honer??:LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by muteboy49
ahhh i see. right now i gotta clean and hone the cylinders. will a honer take off surface rust? theres a little bit in one cylinder
It's not honer, it is a cylinder hone. you have to be careful with them as the drill type 1's don't cut compleatly str8, there mainly for braking cylinder glaze so the rings seat.
oh whatever idk man but i do know it did a damn good job of cleaning the cylinders
As long as it worked, that's all that really matters.Quote:
Originally posted by muteboy49
oh whatever idk man but i do know it did a damn good job of cleaning the cylinders
Is your block freshly bored or has it been used?
If it is used you need to take it to an automotive machine shop and have them check the cylinder bores for wear and taper. They can do this with the block sitting in the back of a pickup truck. Your .030 block may need to be opened up to .040 or even .060.
Trust me. If your cylinders are worn your fresh rings will never seal.
From your other posts, it looks like you plan to buy a rebuild kit with pistons. Don't order anything until you know the true condition of your block.
You should also ask the machinest to check your deck surface. It may need to be resurfaced.
Most machine shops will do these simple checks for free. Another prudent check, which will cost a few bucks, is to have the block mag checked in the areas known to crack.
Be careful about the advice you take from people who know everything and never owned anything.
very good advice and i thank you. The block when i got was in good shape the guy i bought it from i can trust, he builds some bad ass SBC's as far as the cylinders i used a cylinder hone on them and they look very good. They are spotless and have the cross hatching marks on them. The deck surface is good. The motor was disassembled not very long before i got it and it ran fine.