basic buildup info needed please

"ok when buying my crank... do I want internal or external balance??"

internal

"also since I am buying a new crank (and rods).. I only need standard size main bearing and rod bearings right"

yep

Call Joel Britt at Arizona Turbo and tell him what you want to do. He can fix you up with a pair of low-tech T04B Schwitzer turbos that will work for a reasonable amount of money. Talk to him before you purchase any parts. 602-253-9953.

I have my own parts business and I get direct pricing with lots of suppliers including turbo suppliers.. the turbos wont cost me anymorethen 300 or so each.. thats new/rebuild items..

the cost will be in the custom headers.. as for intercoolers I get them at a low cost too..

thx for the answers to the rest of my questions.. im not insulted at all... but I do have an idea and wont bend this is something me and my wife REALLY want to do all I am asking for is a nice group of guy like yourselfs to lend yoru mind to help me with figuring this stuff out and getting my project to life :)

thx agian guys I like this place alot!!


Dave

btw on the clevitte main bergs do I want 3/4 grooved or full grooved

The 3/4 Groove Hi-Performance Main Bearing provides the best of both worlds in a Main bearing. The 3/4 groove allows for the most efficient oiling to the rods, yet maintains full surface area in the most heavily loaded portion of the bearing. Crankshafts using the 3/4 grooved main bearings will not need to be cross drilled which will save time and money while improving crankshaft strength.

Compliments of TA Performance Products, Inc.

THAK YOU for that welth of knowledge...

btw I picked the block up last night.. looks nice I just need to pull the cam out of it and get her on the stand ... however it looks like I will have to bore .030 over so I can get the pistons in.. the only ones JE or Weisco have are .030 and they will knock comp doewn to 8:1 if I use 72cc heads

Dave

There is a good chance your block will have to be bored anyway. BTW, a lot of machinists want you to provide a piston so they will be able to hone the cylinder to the proper clearances. In addition, it is a good idea to have the block sonic tested for cracks, align bored and decked to zero so you can achieve proper quench. Do you have a good, reliable machine shop lined up?

yes I do.. I plan to get the pistons then send it in to get all done.. bore clean up new freeze plugs etc..

now will I need a balance job or not on the 350's

Dave

Absolutely, get the rotating assembly balanced. That's a critical part of building a good engine. If you buy your crank, rods, and pistons as a rotating assembly kit, you can order it balanced for a small extra charge. If not, have your machine shop do it.

now wont I need the flywheel as well to be balanced or not.. cause I plan to do a 4-5 spd manual trans...

or do I just need the bolts, timing set, crank, rods, pistons, bearings, cam, crank pulley

or in otherwards WHAT ALL do I need so I can get the engien balanced.. cause this has to be done before assembly correct

Dave

On an internally balanced motor, the damper, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate can be balanced separately from the rotating assembly.

ok so unless I am wrong this means I only need to have the crank, rods, pistons, maina nd rod bolts, and bearings balanced right... or do I need the timing kit and the cam balanced too?

Dave

Only the rotating assembly--crank, connecting rods, and pistons. That way, the crankshaft itself is balanced and it is turning the same weight for each cylinder. I should be balanced within one gram for a high performance engine, and it should be balanced as close to zero as possible for a race engine--usually within 1/4-1/2 gram is considered acceptable for the extreme applications. You don't balance bearing as they do not move.

and I dont have to balance the cam or timing set (chain and gears)?

also when I buy the rods I want bushed rods right not pressed??


**nevermind I looked back and read the answer to this question already**


Dave

You do not have to balance the cam, timing sprockets or chain. If you are going to run a manual transmission, you might want to inquire about the need to balance the flywheel and pressure plate. I have not heard of this before, but I run an automatic and don't deal with manual transmissions so I have to admit my ignorance about this. BTW, have you thought about a tranny that will take the kind of hp and torque you are going to produce? You might pose that question to the guys on the performance forum at www.chevytalk.com . There is a lot of expertise available there.

well I just like a manual but a nice auto could work

well I boght the H beams today for 300.00 (set) and the eagle crank for 144.00 so I just need to grab the SLP JE pistons for 430.00 and some rings and then the harmonic balncer and flex plate then I can get the block machined and balanced


Dave

Quote:

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Originally posted by SpooledupRacing
I have my own parts business and I get direct pricing with lots of suppliers including turbo suppliers.. the turbos wont cost me anymorethen 300 or so each.. thats new/rebuild items..

the cost will be in the custom headers.. as for intercoolers I get them at a low cost too..

thx for the answers to the rest of my questions.. im not insulted at all... but I do have an idea and wont bend this is something me and my wife REALLY want to do all I am asking for is a nice group of guy like yourselfs to lend yoru mind to help me with figuring this stuff out and getting my project to life :)

thx agian guys I like this place alot!!


Dave

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If you can buy these turbo's for $ 300 new each I would like to order about 10 of these.:)

lol... I cant get my hands on that many at one time.. besides mine first ;) lol

it depends on the trim and exact wheel as well.. but they range between 300-500 a turbo usually NEW


Dave