Cooling for power

I need someone to share some knowledge on water injection for a sbc w/blower setup. The manu's claim big HP gains and almost zero risk of detonation. Supposedly I could run up to 12lbs boost on a 9:1 engine w/pump gas. If this is the case and a system cost under $300.00, the hp to cost ratio gets very good and seems like they would be very popular. Perfect setup for the street beings you could (supposedly) run 12:1 on pump gas and stay out of detonation. Anybody got personal experience? Let's hear it!!

Thought about it hard at one point and decided it was one of those to good to be true things.

Water injection and water/alcohol injection has been used for decades to allow more c.r., more timing, more boost or whatever. Knowledge of its attributes were brought to the fore during WWII when it was used on piston engine aircraft to allow more boost.

Here are a couple of sources....
http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/waterinjected.htm
http://www.racetep.com/wik.html?src=...er%20injection

For any of you guys who are experiencing spark knock and just want to experiment with water injection on the cheap, get yourself a windshield washer tank with built in pump off a Ford at the boneyard. Run a rubber feed line from the pump to the carb throat and terminate it into an orifice with a diameter of 0.030". You might be able to rig up a blank carb jet drilled out or whatever. Point it in the middle between the two primary venturis. Rig up a microswitch at the carb linkage to provide power to the pump at half-throttle or whatever. Experiment. Go to the grocery and get a few bottles of Isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Mix three bottles of alcohol with two bottles of water. Usually, the percent of alcohol found at the grocery will be 70%, so three bottles of alcohol and two of water will give you about a 50% mix.

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Originally posted by techinspector1
Water injection and water/alcohol injection has been used for decades to allow more c.r., more timing, more boost or whatever. Knowledge of its attributes were brought to the fore during WWII when it was used on piston engine aircraft to allow more boost.

Here are a couple of sources....
http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/waterinjected.htm
http://www.racetep.com/wik.html?src=...er%20injection

For any of you guys who are experiencing spark knock and just want to experiment with water injection on the cheap, get yourself a windshield washer tank with built in pump off a Ford at the boneyard. Run a rubber feed line from the pump to the carb throat and terminate it into an orifice with a diameter of 0.030". You might be able to rig up a blank carb jet drilled out or whatever. Point it in the middle between the two primary venturis. Rig up a microswitch at the carb linkage to provide power to the pump at half-throttle or whatever. Experiment. Go to the grocery and get a few bottles of Isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Mix three bottles of alcohol with two bottles of water. Usually, the percent of alcohol found at the grocery will be 70%, so three bottles of alcohol and two of water will give you about a 50% mix.

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I have an old nitrous plate w/single spray bar and changable jets. My Luv engine is 10.9:1 and will ping under load if I don't add one can of NOS per 5 gallon octane to 93 Exxon and back off my timing. If I use two .015 jets and the Ford washer motor/bottle, do you think it would work?? I could rig the micro switch to kick as soon as the secondaries open. The engine is all forged 383 with iron heads. Flat tops, zero deck, .039" quench, and 64cc hand polished chambers.

Might have to play some with the jetting size, but in theory it should work well. Tech may be able to shed some light as to a good starting point on the jet size. The microswitch is a great idea, a lot more reliable then remembering to hit a switch inside the car..... Good luck, and let us know how it works out.

I been playing with this thing. I got two .015 jets in the plate but I get a surge when it kicks on. I don't have no smaller jets, they're in the works, but another guy told me I need more pressure to turn the spray to a mist. Seems to me the intake heat would almost vaporize it. What do you think is the problem and how should I try to fix it?

I would try the smaller jets, maybe some smaller holes in the spray bar????

if you are feeling a sureg from the water, then it sounds like you have "to much , to soon". :HMMM:

I dropped my jets to 10/10 and it got rid of the surge, but now under full load I could barely detect some detonation. This is an experiment so I'm running 89 octane straight. I am now wondering if a two stage injection might work better. That way I could a small spray and then at wide open throttle get some more injection. I am thinking of instead of micro switches, some kind of way run it off of a RPM switch like a 2 or 3 channel switch. What do yall think? Any ideas how to make it work?

The MSD two step boxes can be used to trigger most anything with the right relay......... Can change the trigger RPM just by changing the plug in RPM chip. I use them as a two step Rev limiter, one for launch RPM, one for redline RPM.

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Originally posted by Dave Severson
The MSD two step boxes can be used to trigger most anything with the right relay......... Can change the trigger RPM just by changing the plug in RPM chip. I use them as a two step Rev limiter, one for launch RPM, one for redline RPM.

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that would do the job

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Originally posted by Dave Severson
The MSD two step boxes can be used to trigger most anything with the right relay......... Can change the trigger RPM just by changing the plug in RPM chip. I use them as a two step Rev limiter, one for launch RPM, one for redline RPM.

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Would that work to fire a solenoid or could it hook straight to the pump. I'm gonna research it and see if I can come up with some parts that will make it happen. Is there a nitrous plate with dual but separate spray bars?

By using a relay, you could use it to trigger a pump. The MSD RPM switches are designed as a low amperage switch. If you use it to trigger a relay, then you could use the higher amperage out the other side of the relay to run the pump or solenoid, as you prefer. Seems triggering a solenoid and having the pump allready running would be quicker, though. How about just incorporating a second spray bar in your existing plate with separate and tunable nozzles??????

Quote:

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Originally posted by Dave Severson
By using a relay, you could use it to trigger a pump. The MSD RPM switches are designed as a low amperage switch. If you use it to trigger a relay, then you could use the higher amperage out the other side of the relay to run the pump or solenoid, as you prefer. Seems triggering a solenoid and having the pump allready running would be quicker, though. How about just incorporating a second spray bar in your existing plate with separate and tunable nozzles??????

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Yeah, I could drill it and run some tubing. Thanks Dave, now the fun part of research and development without breaking the bank. I haven't found a company that markets a set up like this for naturally aspirated engines. They're a set amount of spray. I found a kit that can be increased as boost level increases. I think it will be easier to use that kit on my blower motor after I experiment enough to find out how well this set up works. So far things are working pretty decent. Almost 11:1 on 89 octane with 35 degrees total timing.

Should work, anxious to hear how the whole thing works out once you get it dialed in. Keep us updated.