Ragged Edge Pro-Street 406

I'm building a new engine for my Luv. I put this combo on paper and I think it will fit the bill. This is a 2800lb truck with nothing in it but two racing seats and an aluminum dash with a narrowed 12-bolt and ladder bar suspension. The only street driving it does is to race and terrorize the neighborhood.

4340 Rotating Assembly.
11.6:1 Forged Pistons
Super Victor Intake
Solid Roller 312/322 Ad., 276/284@.050, .630/.630, 104 LSA
210cc AFR Heads, 2.08/1.65
4500 Custom 8" stall, 4.30 gear, 30X13.5X15 E.T. Streets
Comp Pro Magnum Stainless Rockers 1.6in/1.5ex

I plan to run pump gas and turn no more than 7000. I'm wanting deep 10s, but high 9s would be O.K. What yall think?

i like the cam why stop at 11.6:1 crank the damn thing up on the cr oh i did not see the pump gas part:eek:what size of headers ??

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Originally posted by pat mccarthy
i like the cam why stop at 11.6:1 crank the damn thing up on the cr oh i did not see the pump gas part:eek:what size of headers ??

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I got 17/8 but was thinking of maybe running the adapter for 2"

I got 24" of 3" collector, then 3" Flowmasters exiting through 3" pipe right in front the rear tires.

may be step header 2 to 2 1/8 or the 2 will work how big on the carb think 1000 cfm 13to1 this looks good

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Originally posted by pat mccarthy
may be step header 2 to 2 1/8 or the 2 will work how big on the carb

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Must be tired, can't believe I left all that out. Anyway, Proform 850CFM dog leg with the smaller 1.4 venturi.

turn up the cr or turn down the cam a bit ??

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Originally posted by pat mccarthy
turn up the cr or turn down the cam a bit ??

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Going by a dynamic compression calculator, I'm at 8.01 effective compression. The max on pump gas is supposed to be 8.4. If I shorten the cam to 305 with the same tight LSA, it will put me at 8.35 which may be better. The engine is still on drawing board so change is not out the question. I do want to stay with flattops as they produce more power.

I think turning down the cam to a 305 seat timing will be a good move. A little closer to the edge, but a tight quench should help things out.

Here's one: 306/316, 270/278, .630/.630, 104 LSA

I think this one will make more power and torque. I like those Comp hi-tech 420 lobes. They don't beat your valve train up too bad.

I could shorten that Ex. to 312/274 or make it more of a single pattern at 308/270 but running through the mufflers, I may need that extra bit of blowdown.

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Originally posted by camaro_fever68
I'm building a new engine for my Luv. I put this combo on paper and I think it will fit the bill. This is a 2800lb truck with nothing in it but two racing seats and an aluminum dash with a narrowed 12-bolt and ladder bar suspension. The only street driving it does is to race and terrorize the neighborhood.

4340 Rotating Assembly.
11.6:1 Forged Pistons
Super Victor Intake
Solid Roller 312/322 Ad., 276/284@.050, .630/.630, 104 LSA
210cc AFR Heads, 2.08/1.65
4500 Custom 8" stall, 4.30 gear, 30X13.5X15 E.T. Streets
Comp Pro Magnum Stainless Rockers 1.6in/1.5ex

I plan to run pump gas and turn no more than 7000. I'm wanting deep 10s, but high 9s would be O.K. What yall think?

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I like it, but I would take about 10 degree's off of both sides of the duration to move the powerband down a little bit.I would also add about a 1.5 points to your comp. ratio.

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Originally posted by erik erikson
I like it, but I would take about 10 degree's off of both sides of the duration to move the powerband down a little bit.I would also add about a 1.5 points to your comp. ratio.

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You'll be proud of me Erik, I even got a aftermarket block. :toocool: What do you think of the cam 306/316 listed above?

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Originally posted by camaro_fever68
You'll be proud of me Erik, I even got a aftermarket block. :toocool: What do you think of the cam 306/316 listed above?

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It is very close to what I would run.

I think you may have to consider a higher octane fuel....good combo though.

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Originally posted by hambiskit
I think you may have to consider a higher octane fuel....good combo though.

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I'm hoping not. I'm playing with the numbers to try to keep my dynamic compression (effective-relative to the valve closing point) below 8.4 which is max for pump gas. I believe with a tight quench and aluminum heads, I may be able to cheat it a little.

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Originally posted by camaro_fever68
I'm hoping not. I'm playing with the numbers to try to keep my dynamic compression (effective-relative to the valve closing point) below 8.4 which is max for pump gas. I believe with a tight quench and aluminum heads, I may be able to cheat it a little.

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After looking at this I am thinking you will have to mix pump gas with race gas to make this work.You could always cut them cam back some.JE/SRP has a piston #139625 with a comp. ratio of 9.8 with 64 cc heads.This way you could run it on pump gas.You said you have an aftermarket block.Why not build a 434 with a dish piston so you could have around 10 to 1 for a comp. ratio?

I don't think you wil have a problem with pump gas with that compression and cam setup you have. I am currently running 11.4:1 on a 377 with a smaller cam that you are talking about going to and don't have a knock problem. I was using iron heads and still didn't have a problem now have aluminum heads running timing at 36 degrees no problem. My quench is .045 with flattop pistons.
Where are you located, I see bayou for your location, I assume your located in Louisiana, I'm located in Gonzales.

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Originally posted by 73RS
I don't think you wil have a problem with pump gas with that compression and cam setup you have. I am currently running 11.4:1 on a 377 with a smaller cam that you are talking about going to and don't have a knock problem. I was using iron heads and still didn't have a problem now have aluminum heads running timing at 36 degrees no problem. My quench is .045 with flattop pistons.
Where are you located, I see bayou for your location, I assume your located in Louisiana, I'm located in Gonzales.

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Across the ditch in Plaquemine. I'm pretty confident it will work. Been busy researching and developing last couple days with dyno/engine room men.

Ever think about re-phasing the cam closer to 0 overlap?

Directing the internal combustion to redirect the downward power stroke to the center of the cyl.? Shaping the explosion with a dished piston to maximize the downforce? Rephasing the cam to fire closer to 0 overlap changes the line of crank position from 90* to just past 90 to create momentum, and decrease the chance of breaking cranks under high load axceleration....

I been kicking it around in my head for a couple years, something to think about over morning coffee. Everytime I get it close to what I want it reaches hydralock so I keep just milling it around in my head....I'll get it sooner or later.

Let me know how yours comes out.

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Originally posted by hambiskit
Ever think about re-phasing the cam closer to 0 overlap?

Directing the internal combustion to redirect the downward power stroke to the center of the cyl.? Shaping the explosion with a dished piston to maximize the downforce? Rephasing the cam to fire closer to 0 overlap changes the line of crank position from 90* to just past 90 to create momentum, and decrease the chance of breaking cranks under high load axceleration....

I been kicking it around in my head for a couple years, something to think about over morning coffee. Everytime I get it close to what I want it reaches hydralock so I keep just milling it around in my head....I'll get it sooner or later.

Let me know how yours comes out.

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Hey,this is a street car/truck.When was the last time you even heard of someone breaking a 4340 crank in a 2,800 lbs street driven car/truck.If you are that worried about crank-breakage maybe you should think about running some aluminum rods.Nice thought but don't let it scare you that much.Try running lap after lap with a 14.5 comp. ratio at 7,800 r.p.m.'s.

Just something I kick around in my head Erik- it's not so much the breaking the crank as the trying to get the thing to fire past 90* to enhance the momentum. Hell- I'm sure that it has already been done- I want to figger it out myself, and I do run 14:8.1 lap after lap buddy. If I can get it to work by changing the angles to create more momentum in a street motor I can apply it across the board to the BB's and have one really nasty beast that will run on pump gas.
Besides- it's a street motor only when you put it into a street machine.

Add a little expanding steam from water injection to add pressure past 90 degrees.

:cool:

thought about that- but then you run a risk of high rpm pre-det. don't you?

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Originally posted by hambiskit
thought about that- but then you run a risk of high rpm pre-det. don't you?

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Don't think so.

Water injection is an anti-detonation device.

The water molecules take up room in the chamber, improving quench, and also cools hot spots in the chamber - therefore reducing potential detonation and allowing for increased cylinder pressure.

Probably would be difficult to actually get enough water in there to do what you want without detrimental combustion effects.

I was just thinking that the only reciprocating engine I know of that maintains pressure or possibly even increases pressure on the piston during its' power stroke is a steam engine. Its' other advantage is that every piston down stroke is a power stroke. In fact, every up-stroke is also a power stroke as they injected steam on the backside as well.

What you really need to come up with is an efficient way to heat and carry enough water - maybe something like a Mr. Fusion with a Flux Evaporator that can condense enough water from outside air.

Hmmmm, a diesel comes to mind hambiskit.

well...it's a 327 geometric line, with a Hemi firing design, and I'm trying to apply it to a stroker. I'll get it sooner or later.

Or just get a Hemi.....lol

ooops, forgot chevy forum- but it would be a sweet running stroker, wouldn't it. It kinda does sound like a diesel - don't it.