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Hey guys!
I have this 350 in my "other" car and am willing to pull it out and rebuild the whole thing...since i'm no mecanic, how much can i do myself?
Is it too hard to be done than by just carefully taking notice of how things are bolted together?
May sound stupid but i'm looking at saving a few bucks...3 kids under 5 at home you know...
Thanks!
Well, the 350 is kind of like Pamela Anderson, everyone has had a piece and knows exactly what's in it and how it's all put together, so if you do happen to lose your way during reconstruction or during break-down, you could easily find your way back on track.
I think it is something you should do, I know I would love breakig down a complete motor.
My 350 is nothing like Pamela Anderson...It's all factory parts!!!
yeah i think you should do it yourself, 350's are very common, parts are everywhere, and if you get lost just ask on the forum. but other than that, you should do it, that way you can learn some stuff. ill tell you when i ripped apart my 350, i learned alot, where things go how they go together, a bunch of stuff. as long as you dont lose interest in your project, i say do it.
:LOL: Now that's good stuff Red!!! :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by BigRed
My 350 is nothing like Pamela Anderson...It's all factory parts!!!
As for tearing down a 350 and rebuilding it, with a little mechanical ability, anyone can do it. There are some really good books to read that can point you in the right direction. My first book I ever read on engine rebuild basics was by Tom Monroe. It is called "Engine Builder's Handbook" and although kinda basic, it has some good info. It covers teardown, inspection, reconditioning, blueprinting, Assembly, Etc, Etc,. It's by HP books and well worth reading for a basic understanding on engines. Look up www.penguinputnam.com and get you a copy. It'll be well worth it.
Thanks Guys!
I think i'll go for it.
When rebuilding, what parts am i to change or, what should i look for in order to do it?
What is this, the Dr. Ruth Show?Quote:
How hard is it?
How hard is it?
What is this, the Dr. Ruth Show?
Wow guys. Good thing it's Valentines Day. Sounds like all of you need a little luvin'
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
As for rebuilding your engine, I'm going to take the other positon. I think it is very hard for someone who has never done it, and who may not have to correct tools to do it. There are so many things you have to watch out for, clearances, correct positioning of all the pieces, etc, that even pro's screw up one every now and then.
That being said, you can do it, but at a minimum here is what you need in tools.
an engine lift
an engine stand, to hold it while rebuilding it
a 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch socket set.
harmonic balancer puller
a good torque wrench
a chiltons or similar engine manual for that engine
ring compressor
Now, here is the tough part. You have to be honest with yourself. How mechanical are you? You don't need to be a world class mechanic, but you have to possess some level of understanding of what make things tick.
If you decide to do it, great. I would do the book routine, like camaro_fever68 said. Plus pick up a Chiltons engine manual for that specific car. Then enlist the help of a friend who has been inside an engine before. If you can't do that, sign up for a VoTech basic engine course, if available in your area.
I really am not trying to put a damper on your enthusiasm, but I am a realist, and there are zillions of pieces in an engine, and each and every one of them has to go and function a certain way. Also, you have to know what you are looking at when you see the parts coming out of the engine. Are they reusable or do they need replaced?
That all being said, we all started with just that one first engine, and most of us, especially me, made every mistake in the book. I am just trying to keep you from making too many of them and getting discouraged and giving up in the middle.
Read the books first (the library has a great selection of books on these subjects, and it is free).
Another consideration is, what is needing rebuilt in the engine? WIll a simple ring/bearing/ and gasket overhaul fix it, or are the problems more severe?
Like the other guys said, there is lots of help on here, and just the other night one of the members helped me through a "senior moment" and made me see the fix to something I had been wrestling with.
Hey, what have you got to lose??
Don
PS, been there, done the kids under 5 routine, so I know about budgets. Enjoy them now, because they grow up REAL fast.
Thanks Don!
I appreciate your input.
I have a few friends that could help me with the whole thing...as
for tools, that would not be a problem since i could borrow them!
I'll go your route; i'll be doing some reading.
As for the kids i know what you mean and i do spend a lot of time
with them...and i enjoy every second!
Christian
Champion auto also has a video on rebuilding engines. It take you step by step through the process, Tells you what tools you need and all that. very good movie. Helped me with my first rebuild alot. and I still use it from time to time. Its generic enough to work with all engines.
Thanks man!
Has anybody mentioned the machining??? I don't know the condition of the engine, but what if the piston(s) are bad, or the crank needs to be cut or replaced, etc. That will need more than mechanical ability... It may not need anything, but it's something to consider...
Goodluck!
IRIE...
Go for it, Parisienne!!! Arm yourself with some good videos and books, and it certainly wouldn't hurt to have someone check your work. All of us learned it the same way, by digging in and doing it.!!!!!
If the engine has not been rebuilt it probably will be cheapest to buy a rebuild kit complete with 0.030" oversize pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets for about $250. I also bought a new set of rods for my 350 but I forget what they cost. What I am trying to say is that it is fairly standard to bore the cylinders slightly oversize (usually 0.030" to give a final bore of 4.030"), regrind the bearing surfaces on the crank by say 0.010" under and resurface the heads. All of that requires some interaction with a friendly machine shop. Then a three angle valve job to rebuild the heads and maybe add Z28 springs along with new push rods and a new timing chain and new water pump will get you up to about $1200. Even if your cylinders are only say 0.009" out of round it is cheaper to go to 0.030" oversize because the parts are cheaper for that size. Then you need to put the pistons on the rods the right way. If you have an engine stand and work slowly you can do the assembly but I do not see how you can do it all without visiting a machine shop for an oversize bore, to resurface the heads and assembling the pistons on the rods. While you are there let them put the new cam bearings in. Also you can get a nice torque wrench from Sears, the kind that clicks when you reach the set torque. The kind of torque wrench with a dial pointer is better than nothing but not much. It is exciting to see your engine come together, but I have built three or four engines myself and each time the life of the engine was shortened by some simple mistake, so I hope I have been careful with my latest build of a 350. Also if you use the stock 882 heads the exhaust ports may be very rough and may need to be smoothed out with a grinder. Don't mess with the intake ports on the 882 heads since the walls are thin and it really does not help much anyway. Then (!) you have to select a new cam and that is where more discussion with folks on this Forum can be of help. There are many options in cam selection depending on the car and intended use! Have fun!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Parisenne- you can do this, GO FOR IT !
I'm not a big fan of "clicker" torque wrenches. I have torsion bar wrenches in 1/2. 3/8. and 1/4. I also have "clickers" in 1/2 and 3/8. My 1/2 clicker is a Mac that I've had recalibrated twice. Once it was off 12% and the other time 9%. My 1/2" torsion bar is an almost 50 year old Craftsman that I've always treated like gold. When I've checked the old Craftsman and the newly recalibrated "clicker," the old torsion bar has been spot on. The clicker has always been light when out of adjustment. When torquing bolts, I'll use the clickers to do the coarse tightning, and the torsion bars to final them in. Rachets make life a lot easier. If the clickers are new or just calibrated, they're great. At 12% soft, there could be serious sealing problems. They only problem with torsion bar wrenches is being carefull that they're not binding on the scale, and they can be rough holding steady at high torque readings. As with mileage, opinions may vary. All the advice you're getting here is excellent, and I urge you to go forward and dooit tooit. Take your time, and when in doubt, ask.Quote:
Originally posted by Don Shillady
Also you can get a nice torque wrench from Sears, the kind that clicks when you reach the set torque. The kind of torque wrench with a dial pointer is better than nothing but not much.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
That's very interesting about the calibration of the clicker-type torque wrench. I had no idea they could be off by so much. My problem with the dial type is that I always seem to go past the mark so I like it when the clicker tells me to stop. Even so my machine shop guy advised me to torque the head bolts to 65 ft-lb instead of the Chiltons 60, and so far none of the head bolts have broken so if the wrench was low it came out about right. For low torque settings like the exhaust manifold and aluminum intake I really need that cllicker or I will keep going until something gives at those low settings.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don,
Arms too strong. You need to get off steroids.:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Art
One of my Techs just bought a torque wrench from Snap On, It vibrates in your hand when you reach the desired torque, and automatically converts inch lbs to newton lbs to foot lbs. It is drop proof and is self calibrating. It cost him $ 400.00, but I guess if you earn your living with a tool, it is worth it.
That Snap On truck is a dangerous place to visit. :3dSMILE:
Im with "Itoldyouso" with regards to being honest about your mechanical ability. Most people if not all memebers on here are rather inclined; but I have known people who think they are rather good at carpentry and the tools they own were bought as a kit from K Mart! My brother thinks has some mechanical inclination because he cleans his car, changes his own oil and does his own brakes....yet stripped the aluminum threads when installing the trans pan while doing a fluid filter change!
Now if you are honest with your mechanical ability, then go for it. I did my first 350 at 14 years old, with my Father at my side teching me the whole way and its one of the greatest memories I have.
Do it to learn, not to save a lot of $$ though. Keep in mind most likely your cranks is gonna need to be turned and that is approx $100. Then rods reconditioned is another 80-100 including resizing and pressing on new pistons. Head reconditioned, and that with minimal new parts is gonna be a low of $150 and with some new guides, and maybe new stock (not SS )valves is gonna be up to $300. Engine kit $250-300. Thats for a bare bones no performance rebuild. A few dollars more and you can upgrade your pistons from stock cast to hypers and add a little performance cam but will most likely be another $100 or so for those 2 upgrades. Add that up and your looking at a minimum of $600 for totally stock, and up to $900 for a motor with some upgraded parts. Then add a cheap torque wrench for $80, cheap ring compressor $20, Engine stand $40 for a cheap one, engine hoist rental $40 day.... add that as well, and you can see it gets costly. Reason I say this is if its not for the sake of learning, and having the ability and pride to say you did it yourself you can buy a bone stock 350 reconditioned engine if you shop around with at least a 12 month up to 36 month warranty for $800-$1200 bucks.
By all means I would recommend the build yourself, and then you will relaize why so many on here are so addicted to this stuff. Good luck in whatever you choose.
Well, I agree with the "Go 4 It" posters. If you dont know how already... its a great opertunity to learn.
Gary
These guys are right on the money. If you are doing it to save money, you won't. Chevy sells a brand new goodwrench engine for about $ 1300.00, with the 3 year warranty they mention. I can't rebuild an engine for any less than that, if I do it right.
BUT, if you want to just tear one down to learn, go for it.
Don