Oil Pan Problems.

Hey again, got a quick question that could use some insight. Tried searching first, but both Oil and Pan are under four letters *rolls eyes*.

I'm working on a 1970 Nova with a 305 SBC in it. A few weeks ago I installed some roller rockers and a gear-drive timing setup. Ever since, I was experiancing a rather heavy leak. I didn't realize that to properly replace the timing-cover-to-pan gasket, you were supposed to drop the pan.

I removed the timing cover, removed the motor mount bolts, and removed the distributor. After doing this, I jacked the engine up about 4" to get the pan out. I thoroughly (read THOROUGHLY) cleaned both the oil pan gasket surface(s) and the bottom of the block, totally removing all gasket and oil residue. The problem I'm having now is one of getting the oil pan reinstalled.

I can get the pan back in position above the crossmember just fine with the engine lifted, but the gaskets are what I'm having problems with.

There are two cork pan-to-block gaskets on either side, and two rubber gaskets on the front and back of the pan. One being the pan-to-timing-cover gasket, and the other being pan-to-block on the rear, near the rear main bearing cap.

The problem is that the cork gaskets on the left- and right-hand side of the pan lock in to the rubber front- and rear-pan-to-block gaskets via a small notch in the rubber gasket, and a small tooth on the cork gasket.

I'm having a really difficult time keeing all four gaskets aligned, lifting the pan, making sure the gaskets 'snap' into place, and getting the bolts started, even with a few extra hands helping.

Can someone give me some advice? I'd really, really hate to have to pull the nova's motor. If I can do this with the block in the car, I'd love it.

Should I adhere the gaskets to the block first? If so, how, and in what order?

This is the last thing I need to have this motor leak-free and reliable. Thanks in advance, Rob.

Here's a post from fordsfairlane in an earlier thread that may be of some help to you....

f your in a pinch, and cant afford to keep on redoing the gasket, try 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive: Yellow on the block mounting serface, the timing cover and rear of block. use your finger to apply it evenly but not to thick, " its messy but works very well", "and make sure when you install the ruber endseals first make sure they are lined up and seated right , then before you istall the side gaskets dab a little glue on where the side gaskets meat into the ends of the seal , install the side rail gaskets, and dab a little RTV on the ends of the endseals , make sure they are all lined up with bolt holes let it sit for 2 or 3 min, and carefully place oilpan up to the block and start a few bolts, as you install more bolts finger tight, make sure the gasket didnt slide inwards , tighten all bolts by hand at first, to make sure the pan has seated to the block square . torque all bolts down in an alternating pattern, starting from the senter and working out going from side to side and front to back. torque the bolts a little at a time not all at once. but be carefull not to overtighten the bolts as this can sause the gasket material to split and you will have a leak again.

this is what I do when I run into one of those type of problems, it is the only thing that seems to always work. good luck, and make sertan the you hit every bolt and dont skip one when torquing.

here is a picture of the glue, it will bond metal to ruber or cork with great strength.
fordsfairlane has attached this image: (3M Weatherstrip Adhesive) ....the photo wouldn't copy....

Ok, sounds like a plan. I'm going to give it a shot on sunday, thanks for the help!

i've found one thing that also helps a lot doing oil pans, is throwing away all the bolts and replacing them with pan studs... they make lining up a 100 times easier

Or......you can buy the one piece gasket that Felpro makes. It was so easy to install I will never use anything else! A little more expensive but worth every penny.

I used aviation formagasket on the engine side of the gasket and the rubber seals. That will hold it in place for you. Also, for $35, Fel-Pro makes a rubber one piece gasket that comes with little clips that hold it and the pan in place while you install the bolts.

the #80001 3m weatherstrip adhesive " monkey snot " is what we use to adhere oil pan gaskets to oil pans, and tranny pan gaskets to tranny pans, at school in the autoshop.

I use 3M on every trouble spot (oil pan corners and intake corners) on every engine I put together and still have yet to have a problem. I have changed many cams without dropping the oil pan, just use some tin shears to cut an angle on the inner lip of the corners of the lip seal, rubber hammer to knock it back in the oil pan and good to go. I'm sure someone here has done it this way also. NOTE: Nowhere in this post did I say it was easy! lol

Thanks so much! The Weatherstip Adhesive worked like a freaking CHARM! Turned my gaskets into refridgerator magniets :)

GREAT tip! I'll be sure to keep a tube of this in my toolbox for the rest of my life.

Pulled the distributor when lifting the motor, and I can't get spark now. We'll figure it out though, over the hump!

Thanks again,
Rob