1971 350 street racing motor

i just got a 1971 chevy c10 with 350 motor 350 trans. i whant to make it one of the pickup around.
I'm putting a Engine Rotating Kit it comes with:
Actual Engine CID: 355
Engine Stroke (in): 3.480 in.
Pistons Included: Yes
Piston Rings Included: Yes
Piston and Ring Oversize (in): 0.030 in.
Piston Material: Hypereutectic aluminum
Piston Style: Dish
Piston Head Volume (cc): +12.00cc
Valve Reliefs: Trough
Wrist Pin Style: Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material: Moly
Crankshaft Included: Yes
Crankshaft Material: Cast steel
Rear Main Seal Style: 2-piece
Balanced: No
Engine Balance: Internal
Balance Style: Neutral
Connecting Rods Included: Yes
Connecting Rod Material: Cast iron
Connecting Rod Beam Style: I-beam
Rod Bearings Included: Yes
Rod Bearing Undersize (in): Stock
Main Bearings Included: Yes
Main Bearing Undersize (in): Stock
Cam Bearings Included: No
Gaskets Included: Yes
Oil Pump Included: Yes
Oil Pump Style: Wet sump
Camshaft Included: No
Lifters Included: No
Timing Chain and Gears Included: Yes
Plastigauge Included: No

with Proform High Performance Gear Drive Sets
Noisy: Yes
Camshaft Gear Attachment: 3-bolts
Gear Drive Idler Style: Dual idler
Maximum Advance/Retard at Camshaft: 8 degree
Maximum Advance/Retard at Crankshaft: 16 degree
Thrust Bearing Included: Yes
Offset Bushings Included: Yes
Gaskets Included: No
Gear Material: Steel

But i don't know what cam to use. should i go big or mid size.

and should i shave my heads if so how much.

and if i was to use nos what shot and how many stage

and what should i do with the transmision put a kit in it if so what kind.


money is no problme

put a mid range roller something that revs up to about 5700-6200 that is designed for blower use.....and then scrap the nitrous idea and put on a blower, you'll have a lot more fun and keep the life of your engine longer than with nitrous.... with a blower you wont have to shave your heads either, you can put enough boost through there to compensate the compression ratio,,,, is it a 2bolt main block or a 4bolt??? if its 4 then you could probably push 8psi maybe 10 if you intercool....is this going in your duster?

Whether you go squeeze or blow, you'll REALLY want to use forged pistons.:eek:

pistons are made from a hypereutectic aluminum alloy. With a hi-silicon content of 16% to 18%. These pistons are much stronger than a regular cast piston. You can run tighter skirt clearances with a hypereutectic piston than with a forged piston and avoid that cold start piston slap. In addition to strength, the hypereutectic improves resistance to scuffs and seizure, and generally runs cooler.

Hypereutectic aluminum has 15% less thermal expansion than conventional piston alloys. The silicon keeps the heat in the combustion chamber and prevents heat transfer, allowing the piston to run cooler. The silicon gives the hypereutectic it’s thermal & wear characteristics.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cutlass389

Whether you go squeeze or blow, you'll REALLY want to use forged pistons.:eek:

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it must be ugly and slow

Forged,Forged,Forged<Forged<Forged:LOL:

well i did a small block with a 420 cid roots blower and used hypers but did somethings to make them live ? ok i think so .but they did the job BUT FORGED would have been ligther and for hi HP better. but they did work

Hyperyucky is still cast. The metallurgical properties of the forging process allows for more "time" before a failure occurs. The casting is more brittle and subject to failure whereas a forging will go "plastic" for a given time before failure with the right(or wrong) situation. If one is a tuning genius and/or has unlimited access to a wideband setup, cast pistons will be fine under most conditions. For the rest of us, forgings buy more time while we figure out the tune and fuel flow dynamics.

By george I think you've got it, kojoe.

I tried those KB Hyper pistons. You cant beat the price. I got around 15 races out of them before i burned a hole in one. Replaced it, Loaned the motor out ( bad move ) and it came back with 3 more bad pistons. So the hypers are laying under a bench somewhere and have been replaced with some SRP Forged pistons. The SRP pistons were only about $100 more then the Hypers. So for my money. FORGED!! they do take a beating.

yes they are heavy and they are about same price as some forged pistons i do not like them. much but have use them in mild builds and they have work good for that .any thing like a race engines i would not have them in it .the time i did use them in a blower i ran them on the Big side of the piston to wall and more on the piston pin and polished the piston tops they work fine . i would of done the same things to a forged pistons

i've seen two cars come into the shop in just the last month that had engines built with hypers, and on both of them 1 cylinder had a detonation, and the piston shattered, and not just made a mess, took out the cylinder wall and the head above..... forged is really the way to go....

The desireable thermal expansion properties of the hyper pistons is far outweighed by the superior toughness and fatigue life properties of forged pistons. This is especially true for high performance applications.

I noticed a gear drive. Is this for the noise value? A blower would certainly not need any extra noise. Gear drives can in some cases lead to premature valve train failures due to vibrational harmonics (I have heard but not analyzed personally) they may introduce in the system. I sincerely believe there is some merit to this. Personally I would tend to stay away from this and use a Cloyes true roller set or a belt drive system ($$) if you really desire tuning flexibilty.

Regards, Kitz

Tests by engine builders verify what kitz is talking about concerning the fatigue and toughness of hyperyucky's???(who said that?).Forged pistons can be slapped by valves and survive,not so with those hyper ?yucky's?

Dude, yeah I have been drinkin' a couple beers tonight too.

However I can still communicate efficiently. I stand behind every thing I said in this post. For starters "google" 'cast pistons versus forged pistons'. If you need more evidence and I think you are worthy (most unlikely), I will send you references to more than 1,000 SAE and ASME and other articles on the subject in support of what I said. I am not here to BS and I gain nothing in boasting; all my opinions are based on my own knowledge and experience.

And trust me, there are far more knowledgeable and experienced people here than me to keep us all honest ..............

Kitz

No,,,kitz,I was complimenting you! When I said "who said that" I meant,who said 'hyperyucky'.

so that are you trying to say ? that gear drive make noise and cause harmonices? why yes you are right. if you look back thru some of my post you will find this. can i tell you they are junk . and save time looking they kill valve springs . i guess i am one of the few that think this way? i like my $350 dollar valve springs to last?i build engines and i have had very good luck. i would not use one or build a engine with a gear drive . hyper lucky? pistons well if you can not step up with the big boys and run ross or srp- je or mahle etc than you get all the problems that go with it but if you do not know how to build or tune your engine bad thing will happpen with the hyper or forged a hyper is 1/2 of a notch past a cast piston the way i see it and if you build it with no end gap they butt and they fail i have used them for cheap builds and they work for me BUT like i said they do not go in race engines

Ok Shevy, never mind ................

I didn't mean to unleash the Irishman :LOL:

Regards, Kitz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitz

Ok Shevy, never mind ................

I didn't mean to unleash the Irishman :LOL:

Regards, Kitz

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i am not on a leash right now:eek: last time i had to pay more for that:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kojoe

i just got a 1971 chevy c10 with 350 motor 350 trans. i whant to make it one of the pickup around.
I'm putting a Engine Rotating Kit it comes with:
Actual Engine CID: 355
Engine Stroke (in): 3.480 in.
Pistons Included: Yes
Piston Rings Included: Yes
Piston and Ring Oversize (in): 0.030 in.
Piston Material: Hypereutectic aluminum
Piston Style: Dish
Piston Head Volume (cc): +12.00cc
Valve Reliefs: Trough
Wrist Pin Style: Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material: Moly
Crankshaft Included: Yes
Crankshaft Material: Cast steel
Rear Main Seal Style: 2-piece
Balanced: No
Engine Balance: Internal
Balance Style: Neutral
Connecting Rods Included: Yes
Connecting Rod Material: Cast iron
Connecting Rod Beam Style: I-beam
Rod Bearings Included: Yes
Rod Bearing Undersize (in): Stock
Main Bearings Included: Yes
Main Bearing Undersize (in): Stock
Cam Bearings Included: No
Gaskets Included: Yes
Oil Pump Included: Yes
Oil Pump Style: Wet sump
Camshaft Included: No
Lifters Included: No
Timing Chain and Gears Included: Yes
Plastigauge Included: No

with Proform High Performance Gear Drive Sets
Noisy: Yes
Camshaft Gear Attachment: 3-bolts
Gear Drive Idler Style: Dual idler
Maximum Advance/Retard at Camshaft: 8 degree
Maximum Advance/Retard at Crankshaft: 16 degree
Thrust Bearing Included: Yes
Offset Bushings Included: Yes
Gaskets Included: No
Gear Material: Steel

But i don't know what cam to use. should i go big or mid size.

and should i shave my heads if so how much.

and if i was to use nos what shot and how many stage

and what should i do with the transmision put a kit in it if so what kind.


money is no problme

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QUESTION?
?
IN GENERAL THE BIGGER THE CAM,ITS FOR MORE UPPER END POWER,ALL AROUND CAM IS .490.LIFT,WITH OUT GOING TO A STALL SPEED....I CAN HELP YOU OUT I JUST NEED TO NO WHAT YOUR WANTING TO DO ? AND WHAT KINDA REAR END YOU GOT ?AND ALSO WHAT TYPER CAM YOU WANTING ROLLER?
HYDRALIC? ETC.........GOOD LUCK