Rochester 2g tripower

I recently bought a rebuilt tripower setup ( not original tripower carbs) with large base carbs for a 350 Chevy. As I tried to install the waterneck I ran into a clearance issue. No big deal, I can fix that. Needed to swap the front and rear carbs bases around but leave the tops where they were. (long story why but its all about grinded parts and clearance issues) Piece of cake. When I took the tops off I noticed that one had a spring loaded rod in the bowl (power valve or intermediate valve?) and the other didn't. My question is does this get removed for the dumper carb conversion or did the part get forgotten in the rebuild? :confused:

On my conversion kit from Speedway (for 2G tri power) the two secondary carbs get the power valve removed and a plug inserted in their place. You can remove the spring piston also.

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Originally Posted by Oldf100fordman

On my conversion kit from Speedway (for 2G tri power) the two secondary carbs get the power valve removed and a plug inserted in their place. You can remove the spring piston also.

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Interesting thread because I will be doing the same thing on the 394 Olds I am building. I bought 3 regular GC carbs, and want to use them on the tripower manifold. In the old days we just sort of cranked in the idle screws on the end carbs ( I think.........it's been 35 years:confused: ) Is there some way around the Speedway kits that works ok? If I can save some money here and still get ok performance, I would not be opposed to that.

Don

Disconnect the accelerator pump, too. The end two carbs shouldn't begin to open until the engine rpm is past needing it.

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

I bought 3 regular GC carbs, and want to use them on the tripower manifold. In the old days we just sort of cranked in the idle screws on the end carbs ( I think.........it's been 35 years:confused: ) Is there some way around the Speedway kits that works ok?

Don

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I don't know Don. I ran mine that way for a bout a year and just not ever got them to work quite right, (indistinct idle, random backfires, etc,etc) so I splurged on the Speedway kit and am really happy with the results. Just my experience.

Here's some reading.

The rod and spring should likely be removed.


http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...threadid=21260

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...threadid=20125

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...threadid=20854

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sh...&threadid=13948 (Page 2 covers Carb Mods)

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sh...&threadid=12288

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=9262

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=7704

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=7436


Accelerator pumps on mechanical linkage Tri-Power set up should NOT be disconnected. The vacume opening secondary carbs such as found Six-Pac Mopars could get away with it due to the gradual opening of the end units. On a mechanical linkage a sudden throttle stab will still result in a lean condition usually accompanied by an cback fire through the intake.

Tried to go to those threads and got a message saying I wan't authorized to view them for every one of them. Did some other checking myself and found out the removing the accelerator pump for my setup shouldn't be done and it was agreed the power valve can be removed. Guess its time to put the mess back together. :)