Oil leak ??

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08-24-2006, 02:39 PM
59belaircopcar

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Oil leak ??

Hey guys,
Oil Primed my 283 and found oil coming from the "cam plug" I think that's what it's called? The plug was installed at the machine shop after the block was tanked. Curious to any suggestions on the best way to fix it? I'd sure hate to disassemble :CRY:
08-24-2006, 03:10 PM
59belaircopcar

I've read to remove a freeze plug...Use a center punch and drive a hole in the center of the plug and then pry the plug out. How close is the camshaft? will I run the risk of hitting the camshaft behind the plug? Do you need a tool to reinstall a new plug?
08-24-2006, 04:38 PM
R Pope

Sometimes that plug gets knocked loose when you install the cam. Try using a large socket and tapping it in a bit. If it moves much, it probably will seal again.
08-24-2006, 04:42 PM
lt1s10

clean it good and run a bead of black sealer around it. be sure its all the way in, ping around it with a punch.
08-25-2006, 04:55 AM
59belaircopcar

Thanks everyone.
I'll give all those suggestions a try.
Are these tapered holes in the block? Is that what tightens the plug, or
is it the plug expanding while being tapped in?

I'm a little reluctant to put a bead of RTV around the plug. If I do that, I'm sure it will seal...but for how long?, with the engine running at temperature and full oil pressure. Of course at that point in time the engine will be in the car.

I will try to press it in a little more and take it from there. How much room do I have before I hit the camshaft? Speaking of which...What holds the camshaft in position? :HMMM: As I recall I slid it in, attached the sprocket and chain and thats it. Is the chain the only thing that keeps the shaft from wondering?
08-25-2006, 06:03 AM
lt1s10

that bead of rtv will be there as long as the motor last. :eek: use red or black.
08-25-2006, 06:06 AM
59belaircopcar

The plug was square and flush with the block. I Tapped it in a little further, about a 1/16th of an inch (It moved fairly easy).
BTW The plug is 2 7/64th.
Still leaks?
08-25-2006, 06:18 AM
lt1s10

they should have sealed it when they knocked it in. they are made to go in pretty easy, but hard to get out. it must have a dent in it.
08-25-2006, 06:21 AM
59belaircopcar

Quote:

Originally Posted by lt1s10

that bead of rtv will be there as long as the motor last. :eek: use red or black.

The plug is leaking oil just hanging on the stand. So if I clean it real good and apply the RTV...the RTV is what will make the seal. You don't believe the bead of RTV will eventually loosen? Heat cycles, vibrations, oil pressure etc.

Is your suggestion to put a bead of RTV around the existing plug? Or put a bead of RTV on a new plug?
08-25-2006, 06:29 AM
59belaircopcar

Quote:

Originally Posted by DennyW

If it's to easy, replace it. Sounds like they didn't get it square when they first installed it. Or, Maybe, just a bad plug.

Thanks for the info on freeze plugs.

Any tricks of the trade to getting the plug out easily?
I don't have a plug installer, can I get by with something else?
08-25-2006, 06:47 AM
lt1s10

59belaircopcar, i could probably seal it and it would hold, because i've sealed a lot of them and know it works. it probably want work for you because you think it want. so you need to replace the plug with a new one. drill a small hole in the plug and screw a metal screw in the hole and try to pry or pull it out. put some grease on the bit so the shaving will stick to it. when you get it out clean it good, and put a bead of sealer around the new plug before you knock it in.
08-25-2006, 07:14 AM
HWORRELL

Use a nail or ice pick and poke a hole in the plug,use that hole to pry out the plug,go get a new plug and a tube of Permatex "Right Stuff" do not use silcone,
use brake clean and clean the new plug and the plug bore,apply a light coat of Right Stuff to the plugs edges and install flush with the block,Then put a big DONE stamp on it..
08-25-2006, 07:22 AM
59belaircopcar

"it probably want work for you because you think it want."

Actually, It's not that I "think it won't work" I don't have a clue if it will work.(I have no experiance with it). Thats the reason I ask. I'm not challenging the advise just getting a better understanding behind the advise.
I'll pull it with the method you suggested. Just to check for scores and such, (plus I'm curious as to how close the camshaft is to the plug) then put a new one in with RTV as you suggested. Thanks for your help.
08-25-2006, 07:29 AM
59belaircopcar

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWORRELL

Use a nail or ice pick and poke a hole in the plug,use that hole to pry out the plug,go get a new plug and a tube of Permatex "Right Stuff" do not use silcone,
use brake clean and clean the new plug and the plug bore,apply a light coat of Right Stuff to the plugs edges and install flush with the block,Then put a big DONE stamp on it..

Hmmm, I have plenty of Permatex red RTV. Don't have any "right stuff" at the moment. Any reason I should not use Silicone? :HMMM:
08-25-2006, 10:38 AM
59belaircopcar

Quote:

Originally Posted by DennyW

The setting distance was, should have been done once the cam was placed in the block and the timing gears and chain were mounted. This keeps the gear from going up against the block.

I have used a very sharp chisel, and made a indent close to the inner side, then laying it side ways, and holding it firmly, lay the chisel againt the other side of the block, and tapping the side of the chisel to move the edge out until you can grab it with a pair of vise-grips.

Denny,
Excellent suggestion on removing the plug!! That chisel method worked great. I picked up a new one applied a little sealant, installed it and applied a bead around the edge.
Not sure what you mean about "setting the distance" on the camshaft. I installed the camshaft and did not see anyway to "set the distance" Can you elaborate on how the camshaft position is set:confused: I hope I didn't miss something.
08-25-2006, 10:47 AM
59belaircopcar

BTW for anybody that may have similar questions down the road...
The distance from the edge of the block to the cam is about .450
There is a lip at about .420 so the plug can't be driven in beyond that. But you can't drive the plug to the lip because the plug is bowed out so the center of the plug would hit the cam shaft before the outside edge came in contact with the lip in the block.
08-25-2006, 11:33 AM
59belaircopcar

Quote:

Originally Posted by DennyW

Not all engines are the same, and not all freeze plugs install the way you have yours. Just so people know.

Very true! The specs I mentioned are for a stock 1965 Chevy 283.
I have found many answers to questions by using the search engine. My intent is to help others that may have similar questions. Being I don't have experience to offer I can at least provide details to my issues as they come along.

Denny do you have any thoughts on your previous post mentioning "setting the cam distance"? I really don't want to go any further not knowing if I missed something. I did not set the cam to any reference whatsoever. Thanks again for all your help.
08-25-2006, 08:12 PM
lt1s10

you asked the right questions and made the right decision ,by replacing the plug. ask a lot of questions and then go with your gut feeling and most of the time you'll be ok. :cool: