I can't decide what engine to build....need advice

I'm trying to put together a new engine for my '35 chevrolet. First off I drive the car a good bit and I usually make a 1000 mile round trip every year to pigeon forge on this car and I'd like to start going on more trips to to nats and such in the future, so I need it dependable. I've got a set of world products sportsman II's I've been hanging on to and a set of '69 186 castings on the 355 in the car now. I've got a 350 4 bolt block that'll clean up on .040, a '509 400 2 bolt block that'll clean up on .040, and 4 bolt 400 that is shot and I've got 8 sleeves to put it back standard. I'll build Either a 383 or a 400 and either way I'll be buying a rotating assembly so the money will be the same either way. I'd like to get as much power as possible so I'm leaning toward the 400 but I'm wooried about keeping it cool. I've got a Custom Auto Radiator 5 row radiator, not aluminum, Cooling components/walker electric fan and shroud, Edelbrock water pump, high flow 180 deg. thermostat, and I've got my headers wrapped and the pipes wrapped back to about the front seats. I've invested around $1200 in the cooling system. The car got up to around 210 idling in traffic last summer with the sending unit mounted in the head which is a little hotter than the intake. I'll be moving it to the intake on the new engine. I have since installed the edelbrock water pump and wrapped the exhaust so it shouldn't get quite that hot now. Going down the road it runs around 170 with the 180 thermostat. I want to build the 400 and if I do I'll pay close attention to the steam holes and try every trick I can find to help keep it cool, but something inside tells me to build the 383/385? Of course I'll be trying to get the quench right and the dynamic compression around 8:1. I have no personal experience with a 400 I've just heard horror stories. What would you do?

Throw all that away----get a Dart SHP block , build it with a 3.875 crank and 4.125 bore use AFR heads and geta a cam for the driving that you do---you can end up with 427 cid

For lots of driving? I'd go with an LS1 and forget the old stuff. Even in stock form the technology is way ahead of the old small block design. The potential for power add ons is much more advanced, too.

I can't afford any of that right now.....I started a new job this year. Automotive Service Technology instructor at Elba High School. I'm at the bottom of the pay scale as this is my first year and I'm still working in my shop in the evenings to make ends meet. I would love to upgrade but I have no choice, the engine has to be replaced, and I have to stick with the old stuff at this time. I'm only looking for 375-450 hp with a little driveability, on the ragged edge of course, and using parts I already have and my access to machine shop equiptment. I should be able to keep it under $1500 for the whole build or I can buy a $1500 block??? I can see that in my future with a pair of turbos tucked under the front fenders but that's dreaming at this point. 383 or 400? I know the sportsman II's are old technology but I traded a $100 running 305 for them.......they fit my budget.

Attaboy Jerry, pull out all the stops and go big or go home, huh? :LOL:

35chevy, the 400 2-bolt block has better integrity in the crankcase than the 400 4-bolt. Once you start putting some horsepower into the 4-bolt, the webbing pulls out of the block and you run over the crank. Start your build with the 509 block would be my suggestion. In my opinion, the 400 has gotten an undeserved bad rap for overheating. I'm thinkin' that this crap was started by some dunderhead who bolted 350 heads onto his 400 without drillin' 'em for steam holes and the motor spit out the head gaskets due to localized hot spots at the edge of the bore. Either that or it rattled like a can full of marbles from detonation for the same reason. They'll cool as well as any other SBC if you pay attention to detail and it sounds like you are on that page. The late, great Smokey Yunick said that the thin limit on cylinder walls is about 0.135". Under that thickness, the skidding of the rings on the walls transfers vibes to the water jacket side of the cylinder and separates air bubbles from the cooling water. These air bubbles cling to the water jacket wall, preventing cooling water from getting to the wall to carry away heat and you have a problem. Over 0.135", there is enough mass in the walls to quell the vibes and prevent this problem. Smokey used to cut blocks apart, install glass windows and run the motor so that he could observe what was going on inside, so I pretty much take anything he has written as gospel. And yes, he said the rings SKID up and down the bore, they don't glide smoothly like you might think.

Here are the instructions for drilling steam holes in your SII heads....
http://www.gregsengine.com/350to400.htm

And a cooling system checklist that you may find helpful....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...cooling_system

If you'll post the converter and rear gear you're going to use, I'll run up a DynoSim dyno pull for the 400 with SII heads and help you with component selection. :D Also, the kind of cam you want to run, solid flat tappet, hydraulic flat tappet, solid roller or hydraulic roller. Also, please tell me whether you want a choppy idle, some rump-rump or dead smooth. By the way, another item that has gotten an undeserved bad rap is solid flat tappet cams. You do not have to adjust valves every week like some throttleheads might have you believe. I suspect that twice an year would be a Lord's plenty and you would probably find 'em measuring the same after the cam gets settled in. Personally, I just LUUUUUUV the sound of solids ticking.

Oh, tha ain't all the stops----I also would use his 2 bolt 400 block, but I'd put angle bolt main caps on it. But I'd use the SHP block before I put 8 sleeves in a 4 bolt 400 sbc.

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Oh, tha ain't all the stops----I also would use his 2 bolt 400 block, but I'd put angle bolt main caps on it. But I'd use the SHP block before I put 8 sleeves in a 4 bolt 400 sbc.

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Agreed.....:D

Here's what I'm thinking. '509 block .040, keith black's w/ 18cc d-cups, 5.7 rods, heads are 72cc, static compression should be around 9.5:1. Might have to mill the heads a little and play with head gasket thickness to get dynamic compression and quench right. I'm thinking flat tappet solid lifter cam. I have a 700r4 with around a 2600-2800 stall and the current gears are 3.08's but I'm building another rear and I have a set of 3.55's, 3.73's and 4.10's to choose from, I am leaning toward the 3.55's. I have 28" tires and I like to run aroung 80 on the interstate. 3.73's would probably be the lowest....of course I'll use what fits the engine combination best. I have power brakes also and I have a vacuum reserve canister. Idle quality.....The Lousier the better, it's a Hotrod :3dSMILE: Let me know if yo need any other info to run that dynosim for me, thanks.

408 SBC Low RPM Grunt motor. 415 HP, 475 FT/LBS. (For cruisin' and gettin' out of the way :LOL:)
We're gonna use World Sportsman II heads on this motor, 'cause we've got 'em. They're not the best choice to make horsepower, but for a cruise motor and makin' torque, they ain't that bad. Thing is, they don't flow as well as some other heads you could use on this motor, so trying to prop them up with more static compression ratio and more cam to try to make a horsepower motor is fruitless. Better to optimize what you have to work with and make good torque, then use a gear to take advantage of it. I went to several sources to find some "real" flow figures for these heads. Brzezinski has flowed a bunch of 'em on a SF600 and averaged 'em out, so I went with their figures. I just don't trust figures from the manufacturer as much as I do from an independent company that has no axe to grind. On the DynoSim, these heads stall and nose over at 5000, so I optimized the cam to use this to advantage and make a torque motor out of it. By the way, I tried 11 different cams before I found the one I liked for this build. One of them made 460 ft/lbs at 2000 rpm's, but the hp was nothing to write home about.

Sportsman II flow figures from Brzezinski:
0.100" 64 60
0.200" 130 107
0.300" 186 126
0.400" 214 139
0.500" 230 147
0.600" 233 148

Block: 400 CID Chevy, casting 509, bored +0.040". In my opinion, it is detonation and/or rpm's that kills parts. With this build, I would be totally comfortable using the 2-bolt main caps as is. Nominal block deck height on a virgin block is +/- 9.025". The stack of parts used in this build is 9.008". Most available 400 gaskets will be around 0.040" compressed, so you would want to cut the block decks about 0.017" to zero deck to generate a 0.040" squish with a 0.040" gasket. Or you could cut the decks 0.012" for a piston deck height of 0.005" and use a 0.040" gasket for a squish of 0.045". Your choice. Measure very carefully before cutting anything.

Crank: 400 Chevy, 3.750"

Rods: 5.7" rod of your choice. Since this will be a low-rpm build, I might just use production 350 rods with ARP bolts and the big end re-sized and grind the head of the bolts for cam clearance. Scat I-beam capscrew rods will not have any clearance issues at the cam.

Pistons: 18cc D-Cup Hypereutectic, Keith Black #KB147+040, 1.433 compression height, 5/64, 5/64, 3/16 rings. If necessary grind rod bolt heads for .030" clearance at camshaft. Grind block at pan rail if .030" clearance is not present. Check stock rod balance pad-to-piston clearance, underside of piston. Pay careful attention to ring end gap information from KB. If I have to use a dish piston, I like the KB's because of the D-Cup configuration on the crown. It leaves a generous flat pad on the crown to mate up with the underside of the cylinder head to generate excellent squish.

Heads: World Products Sportsman II cast iron. 200cc intake runners, 72cc chambers, 2.02" intake valves, 1.60" exhaust valves. I suspect you could help these heads out considerably by doing a little bowl blending, precision 5-angle job on the seats and a couple of shallower cuts on the backsides of the valves. I don't know this for a fact, I'm just thinking out loud.

Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM, Weiand Stealth or Professional Products Typhoon.

Carburetor: Vacuum-secondaries 650 CFM of your choice. This motor made a little more hp and torque with an 800, but the driveability (throttle response) and fuel mileage would probably discourage me from using it. If we used heads that flowed better, then yes, definitely I would use the 800.

Headers: Long-tube, equal-length headers of your choice. With this motor, it's a toss-up between 1 5/8 and 1 3/4 primary size. Use what you have. 1 1/2" long-tubes or shorties will be down 38 hp and 41 ft/lbs on this motor combination.

Rocker arms. I used 1.5 rockers for this build. It is said by some that you can pick up 15-20 hp by using full roller rockers over stamped steel ones because of the reduced friction. It is also said that full rollers will lower oil temperature and that makes sense to me. My DynoSim makes no distinction between them, so I can't change that part of the build. I figured you already have 1.5's, so I didn't want to spend any of your money. I did use 1.6's on the sim just to see what would happen. 1.6's will pick up 4 hp and 6 ft/lbs. Hardly worth the trouble and/or expense, taking into account the additional stress generated at the lobe/lifter interface.

Camshaft: CompCams solid, flat tappet, installed advanced 2 degrees. This motor with this cam (advanced 2 degrees) at this static compression ratio should run detonation-free on 87 octane swill as long as the motor is built with a 0.035" to 0.045" squish and the ignition timing is optimized. I might use a 2-piece front cover on this build so that I could try different offset bushings on the cam dowel pin, advancing it and retarding it to tweak the motor after I got a good feel for the baseline power. Some will say that if you have to advance or retard the cam, you've chosen the wrong cam. I don't agree with that. Usually, you can't find cams with only 2 to 4 degrees difference between them from the same manufacturer, so you use the cam that comes closest to what you want the motor to do and tweak it a couple degrees either way to get what you want. That's my take on it anyway. Use extreme caution on the valve springs with a flat tappet cam. You don't necessarily have to use a Comp cam, but you should talk with the tech guys at whatever grinder you choose to make absolutely certain you're using the correct valve springs on your heads for the cam used. The springs that Comp recommends for this cam are shown on this cam card.....
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=220&sb=0

Static compression ratio: 9.42:1
Dynamic compression ratio: 8.00:1

RPM HP TQ
2000 158 414
2500 198 417
3000 252 441
3500 312 468
4000 361 475
4500 394 460
5000 415 436
5500 371 454

I might be thinking of using a little taller gear with this motor than I would with another build that makes more hp at higher rpm's. 3000 r's with the 3.08 gear and a 28" tire makes 81 mph by my calculations. This would put the converter past stall and deliver 441 ft/lbs to the pinion. Oops, just went back and read that you have a 700R4. I believe the OD on that box is 0.7, is that right?

WOW!!! Before I go any further, I must say this is the most awesome website I've ever found. A lot of sites offer very little help. You guys are awesome. :3dSMILE: That is almost exactly the engine comination I was looking at. I think the horsepower and torque numbers are very respectable for a streetrod. Heck, a lot of rods don't have half that much power. Couple of things.....I already have the performer RPM, the 981-16 springs required for the 282s cam so I'm well on my way to having all the parts. My headers are 1 5/8 block huggers. I'm sure the headers will hurt a little but I plan to upgrade to longtube at some point. I have already welded the flanges around the outside of the tubes and port matched them to the exhaust ports of the heads in an effort to get all I can out of them.. The heads have a 5 angle valve job, stainless valves w/ undercut stems and I believe a 30 deg. back cut. After much research, I tapered the guides and polished the ports, but I did not significantly alter the port shape. I was a little surprised at the flow numbers, they are a little low compared most. Nosing over at 5000 is also a surprise, though I do understand these are by no means new technology. The 700r4 does have a .7 overdrive and I have a lockup converter. 3.55's would put me at 2387 rpm at 80 mph and 3.73's would put me at 2508 rpm. WOW, 475 ft/lb's of tourque through a 3.06 first gear and 3.73's:eek: I better start thinking about a new rear suspension:LOL: Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. That's a lot of info!

You're welcome. I enjoy doing this stuff. You'll make more power than what was shown, because the heads will flow better than what I used in the DynoSim, but it's better in my opinion to show it conservative and be overwhelmed with the actual results than it is to anticipate something fantastic and possibly be disappointed with the actual results.

Check out this link here...the guy builds a 500hp engine for a little over $5000.00
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/h...d/outcome.html

This cam is gonna want a lot of initial ignition timing and the heads will probably want somewhere around 36 total. Use 20 at the crank and 16 centrifugal. Use manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance cannister. If the motor is hard to get cranking speed up when you go to start it because of the 20 initial at the crank, install a momentary button on the dash to kill ignition voltage to the coil while you get the motor spinning, then release the button.

Not knowing your level of expertise, I'll link Isky's tutorial for installing the cam and degreeing the damper. Use either a fully degreed damper or find TDC on your stock damper and use a timing tape on it so you can properly ignition time the motor once it's together.
http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.php

Advancing the cam 2 degrees will change the figures shown on the cam card. Intake centerline will be at 104 degrees ATDC, exhaust centerline will be at 116 degrees BTDC and timing events will be 37/65/77/25 @ 0.015" cam lift.

So, 20 degrees initial and 36 degrees total? All in by what rpm?

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Originally Posted by 35chevy

So, 20 degrees initial and 36 degrees total? All in by what rpm?

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I might start at 2800 and change springs up or down to change it a couple hundred r's and see what happens. Edited my post above. Go back and see. You can, of course, use a crank gear with the advance on it, but then it's not so easy to change the cam timing later. Using an offset dowel and 2-piece timing cover makes it easier.

There is a rodder on another forum (whose opinion I respect) who advocates setting the ignition timing at the crank at 36 and locking out the centrifugal. I've never done it, but he says it'll wake the motor up and that you don't need a curve with a loose converter anyway. Sorta makes sense to me, depending on the stall rpm's. But then I was thinkin' that if you had the converter locked up and were under a moderate load at.....say.....2000 rpm's, I don't think the motor would like it much.

350 chevy. Parts availability, price, yadda yadda..



JUST KIDDING of course!

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Not knowing your level of expertise

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I don't know too much....:whacked: If I was smart I'd be building something other than a Chevrolet....:rolleyes: Seriously though, I grew up in a body shop. My father has owned his own shop for over 30 years. I ventured off in another direction and got a degree in Automotive Service Technology. I'm ASE certified, I'm taking my last couple of tests in May to get my master certification. I teach the Automotive Service Technology class at Elba High School. I catch on and learn quick and if it's broke I can fix it, but I just don't have all the experience under my belt to know what works well with these engine combinations and such. I've built numerous engines, but being able to properly assemble an engine and being able to put together the right combination are two different things. I enjoy a new challenge and I learn every day. Some of the latest things I've been studying are setting up proper quench area and dynamic compression. Awesome stuff that most "mechanics" don't know a thing about. That's why I'm here, to learn, and maybe I can use knowledge from my field of expertise to help someone else around here while I'm at it. Thanks for all your Help.....I should have the parts to begin this build next week.

"I don't know too much.... If I was smart I'd be building something other than a Chevrolet.... "

Mr. Dave "Blue Oval" Severson will appreciate this statement. :LOL:

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

"I don't know too much.... If I was smart I'd be building something other than a Chevrolet.... "

Mr. Dave "Blue Oval" Severson will appreciate this statement. :LOL:

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Sounds like my kind of guy!!!!!


Should I tell him about the V-10 Triton laying in the corner of the shop?????:p:LOL:

A V-10 Triton would be awesome. I rented a U-Haul and it had a v-10 in it. It pulled like a son of a gun. Just think what it would be like in a light rod.

Kenny

I've found 2 gasket sets for the 400. Fel-Pro ks2614 and fs8364pt. They both come with permtorque head gaskets. The gasket in the fs8364pt is .039 thick and I can't find info on the ks2614. Wher can I find more info on these sets? the fs8364pt is double the price of the ks2614. is it worth the difference on my application?

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Originally Posted by 35chevy

I've found 2 gasket sets for the 400. Fel-Pro ks2614 and fs8364pt. They both come with permtorque head gaskets. The gasket in the fs8364pt is .039 thick and I can't find info on the ks2614. Wher can I find more info on these sets? the fs8364pt is double the price of the ks2614. is it worth the difference on my application?

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With some quick surfing, I found that the KS2614 uses a 8364PT head gasket and is described as an economy kit for stock, daily driver rebuilds. FS8364PT is described as a premium set.

so, it looks like they both have the same head gaskets. Thanks

I don't want to sound like a know it all,but, jerry clayton was wrong on his figures.A 4.125 bore and a 3.875 stroke gives you 414 ci. Do the math

Hey Jerry, you tryin' to sabotage this operation???:eek:

Thanks purpledragon530, you're correct. Jerry has built so many motors that he got mixed up and used a short crank. 4.125" X 4.000" makes a 427.

Hey Tech. I'm getting scared of the solid lift cam. I've never owned a solid lift cam before but my father has in his younger days....he says I'm not going to like it:confused: I don't mind adjusting the valves every once in a while but he and some of the old timers around here that used to run 'em talk like it's a constant headache keeping them adjusted. I'm only 34 and I just don't know these things 'cause I didn't live through it. Give me an overhead cam and a computer and I know what to do. Has the technology changed since they ran 'em back in the 70's? I'm going to take this thing on long trips and I don't want to have any problems. I wouldn't mind running a hydraulic roller but :eek: $$$$ WOW. I'm building this engine out of pocket and trying to stay away from credit cards. If I can get it all done out of pocket with exception of the cam.....hmmmm I might consider throwing a gold plated roller setup on the plastic for a couple months. what do you think of the comp xr282hr for my setup?

Let's try one step lower first, 12-423-8, install 2 degrees advanced. While I'm spending your money, we'll get a set of Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers too. I don't care whose rockers you use, even stamped ones, but use 1.6 ratio with this roller cam for theoretical lift of 0.535"/0.544". This is what works best on the DynoSim. Touch base with Comp about using 1.6 on this cam. There may be something I'm unaware of. Uses same valve springs as the flat tappet cam we used in the other DynoSim.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=159&sb=0
Go to ebay.com and type in this item number. Management of this forum doesn't want us to link ebay stuff....Item number: 330319157280. This is the best price to be had for these rockers. Scorpions are premium rockers at a very reasonable price. My software doesn't differentiate between stamped rockers and rollers, but the word on the street is that they are good for an additional 15-20 hp as a result of freeing up the friction from stamped rockers. Lower oil temps too.

Static compression ratio 9.42:1
Dynamic compression ratio 8.285:1 with intake close at 36 degrees ABDC (cam advanced 2 degrees).
Used 1 5/8 long-tube, equal-length headers for this pull.
RPM HP TQ
1500 106 361
2000 161 422
2500 202 424
3000 256 448
3500 317 475
4000 368 483
4500 404 472
5000 425 447
5500 385 366
6000 335 293
Horsepower climbs straight up the wall to 5000, then clicks off like a switch. I'm tryin' to make you a torque motor though, for long-haul cruisin, so I'm not interested in making tons of hp. If you want more top end hp, I'll increase the cam, but you'll also want to increase the SCR if we go very wild on the cam. I like to try to make 400 ft/lbs at 2000 and this cam does it easily. Nice part of a roller cam is the elimination of worry about poochin' a lobe or three. No cam break-in either. Clean 'em, oil 'em, install, fire the motor and go. Use any 10W-30 oil. Change your distributor gear to a compatible unit recommended by the cam grinder for this cam. Don't know whether Comp uses a billet or cast core for this cam. Use wear plate and thrust button, setting end play to grinder's specs. Resist any temptation to use a high pressure or high volume oil pump. A standard Melling will work fine.

Now we'll try the longer cam, 12-432-8, installed 2 degrees advanced. With 1.6 rocker ratio, new theoretical valve lift will be 0.544"/0.554".
Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.146:1 with intake close at 39 degrees ABDC (cam advanced 2 degrees).
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=160&sb=0
RPM HP TQ
1500 100 350
2000 255 408
2500 195 410
3000 248 434
3500 312 468
4000 364 478
4500 407 475
5000 437 459
5500 420 401
6000 372 326

Can you help me understand the difference between the recommended 282 solid and the 282 roller? Duration is pretty close, the solid is 236/236 and the roller is 230/236. the intake valve closing point on the solid is 44 degrees and the roller is 41 degrees. wouldn't that make the roller have a higher dynamic compression since the intake valve closes earlier? What an I missing here?

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Originally Posted by Kenny Brant

A V-10 Triton would be awesome. I rented a U-Haul and it had a v-10 in it. It pulled like a son of a gun. Just think what it would be like in a light rod.

Kenny

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I'm saving it for something----just haven't decided what yet!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:

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Originally Posted by 35chevy

Can you help me understand the difference between the recommended 282 solid and the 282 roller? Duration is pretty close, the solid is 236/236 and the roller is 230/236. the intake valve closing point on the solid is 44 degrees and the roller is 41 degrees. wouldn't that make the roller have a higher dynamic compression since the intake valve closes earlier? What an I missing here?

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Because of the lifter having a roller on the cam end vs. a flat surface, more aggresive rates can be used on the cam lift.... then there's the friction thing, a roller offers much less friction and wear on the cam lobe then does a flat tappet.... Richard can give you all the specifics on the difference in cam specs, I'm one of the "lightweights" on cam selection, and always defer to the experts at selection time!!!!!:o

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Because of the lifter having a roller on the cam end vs. a flat surface, more aggresive rates can be used on the cam lift.... then there's the friction thing, a roller offers much less friction and wear on the cam lobe then does a flat tappet.... Richard can give you all the specifics on the difference in cam specs, I'm one of the "lightweights" on cam selection, and always defer to the experts at selection time!!!!!

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I understand the difference between flat tappet and roller....I'm trying to understand the difference in dynamic compression between the two. These two cams look real similar. I used the dynamic compression calculator on Keith black's website and I came up with 8.095 with the xr282hr roller and 7.941 with the solid lift 282s. Techinspector1, are you getting the dynamic compression numbers from the DynoSim software? I'm not sure how accurate the calc. that I'm using is. I like the xr276hr too though....

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Originally Posted by 35chevy

Can you help me understand the difference between the recommended 282 solid and the 282 roller? Duration is pretty close, the solid is 236/236 and the roller is 230/236. the intake valve closing point on the solid is 44 degrees and the roller is 41 degrees. wouldn't that make the roller have a higher dynamic compression since the intake valve closes earlier? What an I missing here?

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Yeah, I must have used closing numbers from a different grind. Sorry. I went back to the post and changed it so that subsequent readers will be able to make sense of it, then added a dyno of the 12-432-8.

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Originally Posted by 35chevy

I can't afford any of that right now.....I started a new job this year. Automotive Service Technology instructor at Elba High School. I'm at the bottom of the pay scale as this is my first year and I'm still working in my shop in the evenings to make ends meet. I would love to upgrade but I have no choice, the engine has to be replaced, and I have to stick with the old stuff at this time. I'm only looking for 375-450 hp with a little driveability, on the ragged edge of course, and using parts I already have and my access to machine shop equiptment. I should be able to keep it under $1500 for the whole build or I can buy a $1500 block??? I can see that in my future with a pair of turbos tucked under the front fenders but that's dreaming at this point. 383 or 400? I know the sportsman II's are old technology but I traded a $100 running 305 for them.......they fit my budget.

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Great to hear we have another teacher on here. You guys deserve way more pay and way more credit for educating tomorrows leaders! I used to teach in the private sector, loved teaching, hated the hours, pay and some of the parents!

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Great to hear we have another teacher on here. You guys deserve way more pay and way more credit for educating tomorrows leaders! I used to teach in the private sector, loved teaching, hated the hours, pay and some of the parents!

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Thanks, Benifits are good, we put in way more hours than most people believe, a lot of preparation time, and the mental stress of dealing with day to day problems with teens is :eek: "WOW" to say the least. On the bright side...some of the things I've seen have taught me how to be a parent. My little girl is 4, maybe some of the things I'm exposed to will help me steer her in a different direction. Some days I want to beat a kid...every day I want to beat a parent. I can't believe how fast society is changing. These kids are parents....and these parents are kids!

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Let's try one step lower first, 12-423-8

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I think I might stick with this one..there's not a lot of horsepower difference and torque is down a little on the 12-432-8. I think playing this one conservatively might be in my benifit. After looking at the torque figures at 2000 rpm I'm thinking I might need to tighten up my converter a little. It slips up to around 2800 behind my 350. I don't know what affect lowering the rear gears has on that though. What do you think? My block cleaned up on .040 and it's going in the caustic soda tomorrow. Some of my parts have come in and I'm expecting a truck load tomorrow, well maybe not a truck load:rolleyes:. I can't wat to get it done.

"I think playing this one conservatively might be in my benifit."

Personally, I wouldn't trade 14 ft/lbs @ 2000 for 12 hp @ 5000. The motor will be seeing 2000 way more often than it will 5000.

"What do you think?"

Proof of the pudding is in the taste. I'd wait and drive the car some before changing the converter.

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Personally, I wouldn't trade 14 ft/lbs @ 2000 for 12 hp @ 5000. The motor will be seeing 2000 way more often than it will 5000.

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That's the same page I was on, Later.............

Just for kicks I emailed comp cams for a camshaft recommendation. They recommended the xr288hr-10. I tried the camquest software and this cam is one of the ones recommended. I'm pretty settled on a smaller cam. I'm just wondering how they come up with thier recommendation? What software do they use?

Tech are you sure that picture is appropriate for this site?
Oh those are cams, sorry about that.
Reminded me of something else.
HE! HE! HE! Kurt