Chevy small block startup after 2 months in storage

Hello everyone!

I'm new to this forum, and have found very useful information already! I had a specific concern I tried to get an answer to, but heard different point of views for it. Maybe some of you can give me a right or different vision....

I have a 1979 Chevy with a 350 SB, that is a collector vehicle that I only use in the summer from time to time, and I store it for the winter ( I live in Canada) in a heated garage. About ever 2 months I start the engine for 10 minutes whitout driving it to have the engine work a little.

My concern is, even though I make one cranking shot of maybe 5 or 6 seconds to have the oil circulate in the engine, and then start it a second time, where the engine fires up after 3 or 4 seconds. Since the engine has not run since 2 months, is there any danger that some components of the engine, like bearings, camshaft lobes, could be dry of oil after 2 months?

We all know that oil is sticky and doesn't evaporate like water does, but I'm a bit concerned about some components not having enough residual oil on them to ensure proper lubrification until the oil pump has reached enough pressure to lubricate everything...:confused:

Am I too meticulous for nothing or is there something I could do to avoid unnecessary wear in my 350 SB? I put a lot of money in this vehicle, so I'd rather take very good care of it....

Any input would be welcome!

Steve

Hi Steve and welcome to CHR.. Very good question and one that effects me two, not that I live in a cold country like Canada, but my 350 chevy has been sitting in my T without starting now for approximately one year while I finish body work. Before I stopped using it I had the 3 x2's carbs and the timing etc all tuned by a tuneshop,so I really do not want to take the dist. out to turn the oil pump mechanically. So lets hope we get some feed back to your question.

If you're worried about building oil pressure before startup. The easiest thing I can think of would be to pull the coil wire from the distributor and ground it. Then spin the starter motor for 20 or 30 seconds. Re-insert the coil wire and let her start. That should help move oil before startup anyways. My point 02.

JMO.... but i think you're ok to just start it up and run it! i dont see much point in turning the engine over without the coil being in because everythings isnt going to run dry over that period of time... the reason you prime the oil pump before you start it . is because everything is dry.. all the internals have been taken out cleaned and gone through so you get the oil going through by priming it . then you should be good to go! again JMO

So according to you folks, after 2 months storage, you think there is still enough residual oil on bearings, cam lobes and crankshaft journals for example, to prevent damage from cranking the engine to start it up after 2 months in a heated garage?

What I've done so far is crank it for 5 or 6 seconds, release the key and then crank it another time to start the engine after another 3 or 4 seconds of cranking. Is it enough according to you to prevent damage? I figure since it runs every two months that there's still a bit of residual oil on the components....Right???? Any other opinions on that?

Thanks,

Steve

I would not be concerned in the least. Even if the engine has sat for a year or so. Mostly depends on whether it has been started in the past or not. When I do a rebuild, I always lubricate very generously for the initial start and ALWAYS fill the filter before it is mounted whether it is a "new" start or not.
If the engine has been started in the past since installation I would be concerned. Start it up.

for those wanting the most protection of startup oil pressure issues, I hear you can install a preoil chamber in the oil pressure line, and have a solenoid open up the stored pressure as you hit the key...
kinda like a bladder tank in a well water system. have it teed in line with the oil pressure connection, and have a NC solenoid kill it when you kill the ignition...

I think you will be okay starting the car after a few months. I suggest you allow the engine to warm up to running temp. before turning it off. Warming it up will allow moisture in the engine to burn off and circulate anti freeze in you cooling system.
Here in Tennessee I try to drive my 40 once every month during winter months.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gmcsierragrande

What I've done so far is crank it for 5 or 6 seconds, release the key and then crank it another time to start the engine after another 3 or 4 seconds of cranking.

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I don't understand why you're doing all this cranking. The most critical part of the motor, the cam lobes and lifter faces are lubed WITH CRANK SPLASH ONLY. If the motor isn't running, they're dry.

If you're going to fire the motor periodically at all, for heaven's sake make sure it's ready to fire off when you first hit the key.

are you running hyd lifters??? they can bleed down after sitting awhile and unplugging the coil and turning the motor over will bleed the lifters back up.