OK guys need some imput on fuel pumps been getting alot of different opions. Motor will be a 427 sbc Brodix track 1 cnc m2s 227cc 1050 dominator, what pump and size lines.
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OK guys need some imput on fuel pumps been getting alot of different opions. Motor will be a 427 sbc Brodix track 1 cnc m2s 227cc 1050 dominator, what pump and size lines.
There are many different ways to plumb a system effectively. I'll outline just one of them that I like for your consideration.
Coming right out of the cell, mount a cartridge type fuel filter such as the Mallory #3140 shown on page 114 of the link below.
Immediately after the filter, mount an electric fuel pump such as the Mallory #4150 shown on page 109 of the link below.
At the carburetor, mount a fuel log/fuel pressure regulator such as the Mallory #4302M shown on page 118 of the link below.
On the front of the log at the carburetor, before the carb inlets, mount a tee on the front of the log. Off this tee, run a small copper or nylon line back to the firewall and up to the cowl so that you can mount a mechanical fuel pressure gauge on the cowl and read it through the windshield. You will need to monitor fuel pressure throughout the rev range in order to properly set the pressure at the fuel log/regulator. HOLLEY SAYS TO USE MINIMUM PRESSURE 5 PSI AND MAXIMUM PRESSURE 7 1/2 PSI MEASURED AT THE CARB INLET. Use a gauge such as the Mallory #29724 shown on page 119 of the link below.
Use minimum 1/2 inch fuel line throughout your installation from the cell to the carb fuel log and for your fuel return line out of the fuel log back to the cell such as Mallory #28788 shown on page 118 of the link below.
http://www.malloryperformance.com/pd...m_Products.pdf
Pay attention to the min/max fuel pressures given by Holley. This is a carburetor. It is not fuel injection, where a higher pressure could produce more horsepower. The only thing you will accomplish by exceeding the max recommended fuel pressure at the carb inlet will be to over-power the needle and seat and blow raw fuel into the intake manifold, providing you with untold misery and turning the whole mess into a tuning nightmare.
Thanks Techinspector I've copied it all down, everone around here told me to get the Holley blue but I'm going with your recommendations. OH one more thing where should I start with the jetting on the Dominator for this engine? Thank's again
Many, many variables. Start at 88. May be too fat. If both power valves are in place, 84-88. If no power valves, 94-96 as a start. CHECK PLUGS OFTEN until you get it jetted the way it wants to be. Go 88, then 86, then 84 if it's fat. You don't want to jump too far at one time and go lean on the motor.
Thanks alot will be back in touch later with some results.
Having just been through the instructions from Edelbrock on their pump and plumbing, I will offer one comment. Edelbrock stresses that the pump be 1) below the tank, as close to the tank as practical, and 2) that there be no filter upstream (other than the OEM "sock" in the tank). Their filter goes downstream of the pump, and Edelbrock's explanation is that the pump is not designed for the added pressure drop of a filter on the pump inlet. Also from Edelbrock, the advice is that even if it works initially the filter pressure drop will increase as the filter ages causing early pump failure, especially on an existing system being upgraded with new components. I'm sure there are many systems installed with filters first, but you might want to check your pump installation instructions relative to warranty and decide accordingly.
I'll be using a 6 gal. fuel cell and I'll install the pump under the bed on the frame and the cell will have the bottom outlet so everything will be down the hill.
For fuel cells with the bottom sump area, I use bulkhead -8 fittings into the bottom , but I turn threads off to the diameter of the id of the o-ring of those filter elements for those inline filters and before putting the foam into the cell, I slip the filter over the turned down fitting so I have two filters inside the tank with no fittings !!!!
what is the list number on the holley dominator ??Quote:
Originally Posted by streak
Pat
I have several dominators from over the years that flow from 950 up to 1350--thats not enough differance to effect jetting----is it????? course I've got jets from 60s to over 100 in case you think it does--- get the crank yet?????
some did have power valves ? yep i had some too still do :) .i did get the crank .just seen the old one was 3/4 crank bolt looks like i will be drilling this out and tapping it out on the mill oh well no big deal . hope it will hold over 2000HP . going to need some parts for two big bore 351 s :DQuote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
The guy I bouht the donor truck from was running the 1050 dominator on a tunnel ram on a 377sbc, truck always ran great and I think he was turning somewhere between 8000-8500. Anyway I think the 427sb should be able to handle the dominator sitting on top of a super victor. Oh let me ask on the bowtie block should I run the recommended .300 taller lifters or machine down the bosses and run the standard ones?
why go thru the added work cutting the lifter bores down when you can buy the long body lifters ? some use a longer body with push rod cup up hire makes for a shorter push rods and thats not a bad thing.i use taller lifters that use shorter push rodsQuote:
Originally Posted by streak
10-4 thats my thoughts also the builder said if we did cut the bosses the lifters would be ceaper to buy in the future but we was just talking about it going to stay with the longer lifters and they are pricey.
well you can send them in for rebuild .good lifters are not cheap ...i just pick up a set of offset 903 body with hippo that were $650. good lifters with hippo help them last longer. ask how much the price is going to be to spot face the lifter bores down would be more then $100 to throw it up on a mill . the price dif from the long body to short is not that much crowers are about the same priceQuote:
Originally Posted by streak