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reason for starting fluid is that it will light easier by a weak spark--easy to get and no bottles of gas to pour/spill---------
only go further down the road when you are sure----------
today an oil change/filter can cost you many dollars that don't need to be wasted on an rusted up bucket that might not run--------
Very true Jerry, Another item that needs to be watched for is the little plastic sleeve that holds the shaft between the distributor and the oil pump on to the oil pump. I have seen those shatter as they get brittle with age and heat. Then let them dry out for a few years and………
Yes, I've been back and yes, I've read all the postings. Didn't want to get in a pissing match with anyone, so took all the great info and went to work. Had a friend of a friend who knows SBCs come by and help. We spun the oil pump with a primer tool. I couldn't get the pulley attachment to hand turn the motor, so hooked up a battery and got the engine to turn using the starter, first without the plugs, then with the plugs (after sitting for 4 days with marvel mystery in the cylinders). Turns over just fine. Oil guage shows oil pressure when the engine is turning over. It wants to start, but isn't quite firing.
Got a couple electrical wires to repair at the starter, and then I'll put in new plugs and try it again.
Bug - I appreciate your offer to help, but I'm a couple hours away from Manteca and found a local guy willing to help.
Techinspector - I know I was a bit sarcastic in my reply, but I hope you at least got a chuckle out of the "son/pops" comments.
I've drained all the old fuel and looked in the tank and it's pretty clean, so I added 7 gallons of new fuel. I unhooked the fuel line at the tank and poured in some Marvel Mystery Oil, then about 2 cups of diesel fuel to flush the fuel line. Added a little air pressure and shot it into a catch bottle. A little messy, but after a couple cups of diesel fuel, the line is clean (no more nasty stuff coming into the catch bottle). Blew out the line, then installed a clear inline fuel filter. The fuel filter is now getting fuel and it's clean, so I'm feeling good about getting decent fuel. I'll eventually replace the fuel tank or have it boiled out and coated.
So, I got allot of good advice, I sorted through what worked for me and I got good results. Thanks guys. If I get it to run, I'll probably go through the brakes, replace all the radiator, trans and diff fluids, put on an Edeldbrock Carb with an adapter plate and drive it for awhile. I'm told the bearings might be rusty and in 500 miles, the engine might stop running, or it might run forever. The plan is to drive it a bit, update the front end to disc brakes, do a little body work, and in a year or so, cough up some money for a new motor.
I'm sure I'll be back on this site for more questions and more great info.
Thanks!
UPDATE - recharged the battery and ran a jumper wire and she fired right up!!! A little smokey, and idled at almost 2000 rpm, but she ran pretty smooth overall. Ran her for about 5 minutes before the wife yelled at me to get ready for our dinner out on the town.
sounds like you are doing some logical basic things--good for you----you can turn the dist by hand or a drill to see if it will fire the plugs -----just put the coil wire on a spark plug ling on the engine for a ground--spin the dist with 12 volts going to the coil and points(it is a points dist, right?)should get good spark-------then move on------
And stick around--we need some hot roddin for when this election is over-------
Yep, Sounds like you’re getting there. Take it slow and methodical, one thing at a time.
Great work. Sounds like you've got it under control. We all have different thoughts on what to do, some based on finance, some based on experience and some just on common sense, but all good stuff. Lots of folks here willing to lend a hand. If something doesn't sound right just ask questions. These people have helped me out quite abit!
No problem at all dude, sometimes I get a little testy when I read these threads. In my mind, I've earned the right due to my advanced age and experience, but that certainly doesn't make it right.:whacked: My apologies.Quote:
Originally Posted by hpcbmw
I'm very pleased that you have taken the bull by the horns and have begun to sort out the problems. As the kiwis might say, "Good on ya, mate."
P.S. If you're talking about rod, main and cam bearings, they don't rust. They're made of non-ferrous materials. You might want to share this fact with whomever told you that bearings rust.:eek: As long as you have good oil pressure, you're good to go.
Another question - the engine runs, but I can't drive the truck til I go through the brakes, probably a couple weeks. Should I let the truck idle for awhile to get the oil up to temp, then change the oil, radiator fluid and the plugs? Is 20 minutes of idling good or bad for the engine? I'll keep a close eye on the temp gauge to make sure it doesn't overheat.
Techinspector -thanks for the tip on the bearings - glad to hear they cant rust. I'll pass this info along if I can remember who told me the bearings can rust. Re: the apology - not necessary, or as the Ozzies say "no worries, Mate".
I'm very excited that it runs - it means I can get it on the road soon, and drive it abit while I plan out my next undertaking. Being able to drive it is a great motivator to keep working on it!
I think letting it idle is fine, as long as the temp gauge says your o.k., and your oil pressure is registering o.k. too. My newer truck, 1993 Toyota always registers a low pressure while idleling, compared to while driving, just an FYI. You Can probably take it for a test drive if your brake stop it while your in your driveway. If all that stuff worked when you parked it, you may be o.k. That being said, when I first fired up my truck, and put it into drive, I almost went through the back of my garage, as I had never checked the brakes and they were completely dry rusted lines! Mind you mine was a 48! :)
Do us a favor and post some pics or a video of it running. We like that stuff!
Attachment 56236Attachment 56237\
Here's a pic of the truck and the engine. Will have to read up on how to load a video on this site.
Cool looks like a nice condition old chevy!
remove dist cap and us a screwdriver to mark rotor button position on fire wall put breaker bar on crank bolt after removing plugs to make engine turn easier
I just went through this on my truck. Just a heads up, the 1406 is the electronic choke and the 1405 is the manual choke. Either way when you get the carb you will have to get Edelbrocks spread bore adapter as the carb wont line up correctly with the quadrajet manifold. The timing is a cinch if you do want to move the distributor just mark the distributor base down by the manifold and mark it on the manifold as well. The edelbrock is a great carb, Im very happy with mine it was a recomendation of a few fellow street rodders.Quote:
Originally Posted by hpcbmw
