newbie trying to get a 283 to run after 9 years in storage

I'm trying to get my GMC pickup on the road after being stored for 9 years. It's got a SBC 283 that a buddy helped me install in 1982. After reading lots of info, I decided to put Marvel Mystery Oil in the plug holes, remove valve covers and pour Marvel on the rockers, change the oil, pull the distributor and spin the oil pump via the distributor access and then rotate the engine by hand to get the motor to turn and check that it's not locked up and that all rockers/valves are moving. I realize this is probably overkill, but want the best chances of the motor running well for awhile, since I can't afford a new motor right now.

That said, I realized I have a couple things I need help with. First, how do I mark the distributor for removal? I've had big headaches in the past trying to re-time an engine after messing with the distributor. I realize it's not that complex, but I always have problems with it. If I mark everything, when I spin the oil pump via the distributor access, will this mess up the timing, meaning I'll have to find tdc, etc, anyway? Where can I get one of those drill adapters that will spin the oil pump?

Next big issue - how do I rotate the engine by hand? Is there a place I can put a breaker bar or a socket with a breaker bar to rotate the engine?

Lastly, the quadra jet carb that's on it (probably circa 1982) was spitting fuel all over the place when I parked the truck, so I plan on replacing the carb. I'm told an Edelbrock 500 (Performer, I think) is a good reliable replacement. I'm looking for a good running truck with decent power, until I get the cash to build a fast motor. Will an Edelbrock Performer work with the current intake manifold (set up for a quadrajet), or will I need a new intake manifold to match the Edelbrock?

Thanks!

Well first off welcome to CHR When I remove a distributor for your purposes I bump the engine over till the rotor is pointing to the firewall I mark the firewall at that point and remove the dist. AT THIS POINT DO NOT TURN ENGINE OVER TILL DIST IS BACK IN. After turning the O/P you will probably not line back up with the pump rod. Turn the pump rod with a screwdriver to line it back up so the dist. drops back in and the rotor lines up with your mark. I have done it where the dist. dosen't line up with pump rod but have the rotor where you want it. At this point the dist. is in the cam where it belongs you can have a person bump the starter while you hold the dist. down and it will drop in where it belongs. Turning the engine over can be done MANY ways with the plugs removed the starter will turn it over easly . You can remove the belts and use a strap wrench. I don't recommend using the crank bolt. I'm not sur about the 500 Edy but it sounds about right Have fun

283 is probably not going to have a crank/dampner bolt.
But as Charlie said, with the plugs out the starter will spin it easly.

Welcome to CHR!

The venerable ol’ 283 is quite the survivor – several folks here comment on them on a regular basis. The oil steps are fine and if you’re squeamish about the alignment of the distributor, leave it in. Pull the plugs and pour a bit of oil in each cylinder, pour some across the rocker arms and then turn the engine over by hand. You can buy this tool from summit Powerhouse Products POW103090 - Powerhouse Products Engine-Related - Overview - SummitRacing.com or go to your local NAPA and buy one that’s similar. Turn the engine over by hand 25-30 times and then hit the starter for a few seconds. Listen to the spin and if you have an oil pressure gauge, you should see it register at 5-10psi. Repeat the starter for another 10-15 seconds and everything should be oiled ok. Drain and refill with good oil (new filter too) and you’re set.

As to the carburetor – Edelbrock no longer makes a QuadraJet replacement and a 1406 is a square base. Your QuadraJet is a spread-bore and there will be fitment problems. I’d recommend a rebuilt QuadraJet like this one Summit Racing SUM-210216 - Summit Racing® Remanufactured Quadrajet Carburetors - Overview - SummitRacing.com $270 and you’re set. It’s a 750 but the design of the QuadraJet with small primaries and larger secondaries allow it to be used on a wide variety of engines. This one has an electric choke that is hassle-free and just needs a switched 12 volt source.

I would also encourage you to think about replacing the distributor – 1966 is still a point type with vacuum advance. This HEI is $90 and coupled with the rebuild QuadraJet will be money well spent. Summit Racing SUM-850001R - Summit Racing® Blueprinted HEI Distributors - Overview - SummitRacing.com Again, a 12 volt switched supply. Make sure the vacuum advance canister points in the same direction as the stock distributor and that the rotor is in the same place as the as the existing one. Time to 8-10 degrees initial and you’ll be very pleased with the trouble-free performance.

Have Fun,
Glenn

If you replace the points distributor with an HEI (which I highly recommend), then run a fresh electrical line from the switch to the + on the HEI. The existing electrical line that feeds the + terminal on your coil is either a resistance wire or has a ballast somewhere in the line. This is so that, with points, you get 12v at startup and then the voltage drops to protect the points. This arrangement will not work well with the HEI, which needs a full 12v ALL THE TIME. Even a boneyard HEI will probably perform better than the points arrangement.

Here's the tool you will need to turn the crank. Remove the belt pulley(s) and bolt this tool to the damper.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...rning_tool.jpg
While you're fiddlin' with the motor, you may as well verify the damper inertia ring for TDC. If it has moved in relation to the hub, you will never get the motor timed properly with a light....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

Thanks for the great info! Is there any reason I can't rotate the motor by putting the 4 speed in 3d or 4th, raising the rear end and spinning the rear wheel? I'd rather spin the motor by hand then with the starter, just to be careful. Thanks for the links to the pully attachments to turn the motor, but I don't want to spend extra money, and I'm not patient enough to wait for shipping.

I'm sure I'll replace the distrib and ignition once I get the truck running and back on the road. Is a new Q jet as complicated and difficult to work on as the old Q jet I've got? If so, I'd rather get a new intake and edelbrock carb, since my current Q jet is to complicated for me to mess with.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hpcbmw

Thanks for the great info! Is there any reason I can't rotate the motor by putting the 4 speed in 3d or 4th, raising the rear end and spinning the rear wheel? I'd rather spin the motor by hand then with the starter, just to be careful. .

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If your Hercules you might do that!

You will need to use the proper type of oil priming tool if you decide to turn the pump to prime the system. A plain stick like this one....
Moroso 62200 - Moroso Oil Pump Primers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
will not close off the passenger side oil galley and you will not get any oil to the passenger side rockers with it. You will need this type....
Summit Racing SUM-901010 - Summit Racing® Oil Pump Primers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Actually son, I'm a little concerned with the attitude you have concerning this entire project. You don't want to learn how to time the motor from scratch, you don't want to spend a few bucks for tools, you don't know how to work on a Q-Jet and are unwilling to learn. I don't know, it seems to me that you should make a decision at to whether or not you want to continue. You're lookin' for the easy way out and there just ain't no easy way. You either roll up your sleeves and learn this stuff or you ride a bicycle. No need to get your nose all out of joint over what I'm sayin' here either. I'm all about REAL and you need to be about REAL also.

Well Pops (techinspector1), first off, I appreciate your ideas and input just like all the other great input I get from this and other sites. However, over the years I've realized what I'm good at and what is difficult. I've also learned not to add complications.

At this point, messing with the distrib could be a complication in getting the old engine to run - so best to avoid that. Plus, I was told in the past that my balancer may be off, meaning the timing marks may not line up - another reason not to mess with the timing. At some point in the future, if I do more indepth engine work, I'll probably learn about timing the engine (been there, done that on many motorcycles, but it took awhile).

I've never liked the Q jet, and don't want or need a high performance fuel system. I'm happy with something simple and reliable, which I'm told is an Edelbrock Performer. If you consider that "the easy way out", so be it.

I figured I could save the time and money involved in buying and hooking up a pulley attachment by simply lifting the rear end and spinning the wheels, although 34_40's comment indicates this will be more difficult then I thought. I figured with the plugs out, it wouldn't be to difficult to spin the motor - I guess I'll find out when I try it. Maybe I'll have to order a pulley attachment and wait for it to be shipped (local speed shop doesn't have them in stock).

So, if you think I should stick to riding bicycles (I ride 2 or 3 times a week), your entitled to your own opinion. I'm using this forum to learn all I can and minimize my mistakes. If I cut a corner or two, and it doesn't work out, I'll do it different next time.

Btw - thanks for the headsup on the correct oil pump primer -this is the kind of info that I appreciate on this site.

Where are you at in NorCal? If you are close I would have no problem coming over and helping you. SBC engines are about the easiest things to work on there is.

FYI, I would make you do all of the work with me supervising. That is the best way to learn.

Q Jets are either good or bad. If you have a bad one, scrap it and get a new one. That has worked best for me in the past.


Oh, BTW, techinspector1 is one of the best people to learn from on this site. Don't bite the hand that feeds you.

Bug hit it on the head. You're not the first to dismiss him so lightly.

A super easy way to check the balancer: pull the sparkplug on # 1 cylinder, and put the motor on zero on the mark. Put a screwdriver in the hole and feel for the piston top. Rock the motorback and forth, and feel the piston. It's pretty easy to figure out where the piston is at top dead center (tdc) when you get te piston at tdc look to see if the mark on the balancer lines up.

Since you aren't going to buy tools, and aren't building a top dollar motor, just put a wrench on the crank and turn it. It's only worked for me for about 20 years.

Now, go back and look at what tech said, and see if you can use the wisdom he shared.

Well, since the OP has been back on the site but not replied again on this thread, I guess he does not want any help.

Oh well, we tried.

Funny I read this thread right before work and didn't have a chance to chime in. I get what he was asking in avoiding adding to reasons why car might not start by doing too many things at once. I think everyone offered good advice and alternatives. What I still don't get is why would you want to even try turning an engine over with the car jacked up in high gears? why not simply put it in neutral? That was his one train of thought I couldn't follow at all.
So if your still out there, maybe try this approach first then proceed with some of the above modifications sugested. Lube each cylinder with some fresh oil, after changining out the old oil and filter. Put a breaker bar or long wrench on the crank bolt( with car in neutral, and plugs removed, and rotate the engine 25-30 times like suggested. At this point you will have a sore arm! Add a little gas to carb, and have a friend standing by with some starter fluid, after reconnecting the plugs and wires. Try to get her to cough or turn over. If she starts briefly and stops, all is well. Now address the carb issue. You know the car can start, and you know the old carb leaked, so go ahead with whatever carb choice you have come up with that fits your setup. Edelbrocks will usually work right out of the box with their factory settings.. put on a new fuel filter before trying to start, because god knows whats going on in the fuel line and gas tank. If you think your rust free and the gas is relatively fresh, give her a start up. Otherwise consider draining the tank, and using fresh fuel. If she runs after this, then maybe just flush your radiator and engine out put in fresh coolant(probably want to replace the hoses too and the belts, 9 years is along time for rubber). Then just do your regular systems checks to make sure your brakes work, your engine charging system works and your battery is good. Give it a test drive in a relatively quiet open space encase brakes fail, etc... And you should be o.k. for a while until your ready to address any mods like the distributor or other issues that may arrise. I hope this is helpful?

Too many different directions here

First charge up the battery
while seeing if engine will turn over check for spark
if you have spark, spray a little starting fluid into carb while cranking to see it it hits a couple times--if so, timing is close enough to run
fix up fuel system---fresh clean fuel in tank, new filter, check pump out put/pressure, fix carb--a carb kit is cheaper than a new carb/manifold---prime carb, crank engine with starting fluid---- if it starts and runs, warm it up a little and then drain oil/coolant, do general periodic maintaenance--belts,hoses,plugs/wires/cap/rotor---------

Jerry,

You are correct and you just added another one to it. A good direction, but another one.

When someone posts a thread like this you could get 100 different directions from 100 different people. The OP just needs to sift through it and see what they can use.

Me, I would not use starting fluid. I have seen starting fluid dry out the cylenders and make for harder cranking. I would use a watter bottle, like a Crystal Geyser or such, drill a small hole in the cap, put a small amount of gas in it and use that to prime the carb.

But that is just me, and another direction:).

reason for starting fluid is that it will light easier by a weak spark--easy to get and no bottles of gas to pour/spill---------

only go further down the road when you are sure----------

today an oil change/filter can cost you many dollars that don't need to be wasted on an rusted up bucket that might not run--------

Very true Jerry, Another item that needs to be watched for is the little plastic sleeve that holds the shaft between the distributor and the oil pump on to the oil pump. I have seen those shatter as they get brittle with age and heat. Then let them dry out for a few years and………

Yes, I've been back and yes, I've read all the postings. Didn't want to get in a pissing match with anyone, so took all the great info and went to work. Had a friend of a friend who knows SBCs come by and help. We spun the oil pump with a primer tool. I couldn't get the pulley attachment to hand turn the motor, so hooked up a battery and got the engine to turn using the starter, first without the plugs, then with the plugs (after sitting for 4 days with marvel mystery in the cylinders). Turns over just fine. Oil guage shows oil pressure when the engine is turning over. It wants to start, but isn't quite firing.

Got a couple electrical wires to repair at the starter, and then I'll put in new plugs and try it again.

Bug - I appreciate your offer to help, but I'm a couple hours away from Manteca and found a local guy willing to help.

Techinspector - I know I was a bit sarcastic in my reply, but I hope you at least got a chuckle out of the "son/pops" comments.

I've drained all the old fuel and looked in the tank and it's pretty clean, so I added 7 gallons of new fuel. I unhooked the fuel line at the tank and poured in some Marvel Mystery Oil, then about 2 cups of diesel fuel to flush the fuel line. Added a little air pressure and shot it into a catch bottle. A little messy, but after a couple cups of diesel fuel, the line is clean (no more nasty stuff coming into the catch bottle). Blew out the line, then installed a clear inline fuel filter. The fuel filter is now getting fuel and it's clean, so I'm feeling good about getting decent fuel. I'll eventually replace the fuel tank or have it boiled out and coated.

So, I got allot of good advice, I sorted through what worked for me and I got good results. Thanks guys. If I get it to run, I'll probably go through the brakes, replace all the radiator, trans and diff fluids, put on an Edeldbrock Carb with an adapter plate and drive it for awhile. I'm told the bearings might be rusty and in 500 miles, the engine might stop running, or it might run forever. The plan is to drive it a bit, update the front end to disc brakes, do a little body work, and in a year or so, cough up some money for a new motor.

I'm sure I'll be back on this site for more questions and more great info.

Thanks!



UPDATE - recharged the battery and ran a jumper wire and she fired right up!!! A little smokey, and idled at almost 2000 rpm, but she ran pretty smooth overall. Ran her for about 5 minutes before the wife yelled at me to get ready for our dinner out on the town.

sounds like you are doing some logical basic things--good for you----you can turn the dist by hand or a drill to see if it will fire the plugs -----just put the coil wire on a spark plug ling on the engine for a ground--spin the dist with 12 volts going to the coil and points(it is a points dist, right?)should get good spark-------then move on------

And stick around--we need some hot roddin for when this election is over-------

Yep, Sounds like you’re getting there. Take it slow and methodical, one thing at a time.

Great work. Sounds like you've got it under control. We all have different thoughts on what to do, some based on finance, some based on experience and some just on common sense, but all good stuff. Lots of folks here willing to lend a hand. If something doesn't sound right just ask questions. These people have helped me out quite abit!

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Originally Posted by hpcbmw

Techinspector - I know I was a bit sarcastic in my reply, but I hope you at least got a chuckle out of the "son/pops" comments.

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No problem at all dude, sometimes I get a little testy when I read these threads. In my mind, I've earned the right due to my advanced age and experience, but that certainly doesn't make it right.:whacked: My apologies.

I'm very pleased that you have taken the bull by the horns and have begun to sort out the problems. As the kiwis might say, "Good on ya, mate."

P.S. If you're talking about rod, main and cam bearings, they don't rust. They're made of non-ferrous materials. You might want to share this fact with whomever told you that bearings rust.:eek: As long as you have good oil pressure, you're good to go.

Another question - the engine runs, but I can't drive the truck til I go through the brakes, probably a couple weeks. Should I let the truck idle for awhile to get the oil up to temp, then change the oil, radiator fluid and the plugs? Is 20 minutes of idling good or bad for the engine? I'll keep a close eye on the temp gauge to make sure it doesn't overheat.

Techinspector -thanks for the tip on the bearings - glad to hear they cant rust. I'll pass this info along if I can remember who told me the bearings can rust. Re: the apology - not necessary, or as the Ozzies say "no worries, Mate".

I'm very excited that it runs - it means I can get it on the road soon, and drive it abit while I plan out my next undertaking. Being able to drive it is a great motivator to keep working on it!

I think letting it idle is fine, as long as the temp gauge says your o.k., and your oil pressure is registering o.k. too. My newer truck, 1993 Toyota always registers a low pressure while idleling, compared to while driving, just an FYI. You Can probably take it for a test drive if your brake stop it while your in your driveway. If all that stuff worked when you parked it, you may be o.k. That being said, when I first fired up my truck, and put it into drive, I almost went through the back of my garage, as I had never checked the brakes and they were completely dry rusted lines! Mind you mine was a 48! :)

Do us a favor and post some pics or a video of it running. We like that stuff!

Attachment 56236Attachment 56237\

Here's a pic of the truck and the engine. Will have to read up on how to load a video on this site.

Cool looks like a nice condition old chevy!

remove dist cap and us a screwdriver to mark rotor button position on fire wall put breaker bar on crank bolt after removing plugs to make engine turn easier

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hpcbmw

I've never liked the Q jet, and don't want or need a high performance fuel system. I'm happy with something simple and reliable, which I'm told is an Edelbrock Performer. If you consider that "the easy way out", so be it.

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I just went through this on my truck. Just a heads up, the 1406 is the electronic choke and the 1405 is the manual choke. Either way when you get the carb you will have to get Edelbrocks spread bore adapter as the carb wont line up correctly with the quadrajet manifold. The timing is a cinch if you do want to move the distributor just mark the distributor base down by the manifold and mark it on the manifold as well. The edelbrock is a great carb, Im very happy with mine it was a recomendation of a few fellow street rodders.