Well I'm in need of a good header gasket for a 350 with hooker headers. I've had a decent looking felpro before on a header with a 1/2" flange and it still managed to leak. I want something that I won't have issues with. Thanks!
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Well I'm in need of a good header gasket for a 350 with hooker headers. I've had a decent looking felpro before on a header with a 1/2" flange and it still managed to leak. I want something that I won't have issues with. Thanks!
Earl's has a replaceable insert gasket that I've found does a great job. Summit carries them - not cheap tho Earl's Performance 29D03BERL - Earl's Performance Pressure Master Header Seals - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I've had my headers off a couple times and they still are sealing well, but expect to replace the inserts this winter
Best advice I would give is use your torque wrench, even clamping pressure does wonders. Start at the inside ports and go out, and do it a couple of times. If you want after you take a drive, let it cool and go over them again, I have never had to do that personally, the felpro will work just fine.
I can't argue with Pepi's answer, but like Dave I used Earl's metal gasket with the replaceable inserts and have had zero problems. The constraints of my header bolts make it very difficult to accurately torque the bolts, but the Earl's gasket has sealed just fine.
I too cannot use a torque wrench on many/most of the Percy's header bolts* I'm using.
Oh and as good as most Fel Pro gaskets are, always had trouble with their exhaust gaskets
* Percys Splitlock Header Bolts - Black Steel, 3/8 x 1 Inch, Set of 16 - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Earls are very good, the most important thing is to get the gasket to match the header. If you have a round port on the header flange then you need a round gasket, a square port will need a square gasket. Sbc has different sizes for the square ports as well.
Thank you very much, good advice! I think I'll order those they are worth the price if they seal nicely
I would also recommend using Stage 8 locking fasteners. I used them on my headers, and ten years later, I am still on my original header gaskets.
Performance Auto | Locking Fasteners
A common issue with header gaskets blowing out, and/or sealing poorly, flange bolts loosening etc., led me to do some research on this subject..I was happy that I did.
I used Percy's Splitlock bolts, and Rem-flex gaskets on my BBK headers, and have never had an issue.
Rem-flex gaskets are designed to allow for some headers that are not 100% true, (which leads to the leaking/blow out issues).Just follow the directions re bolt torques. You don't need to squish the heck out of them for a good seal.
The Percy Splitlock's are easy to install, and definitely will not back out if installed as per the instructions..
My experiance with header gaskets has always been bad on a street car untill I started using stock ex.manifold gaskets. And just like me they are cheap. :):eek:
I find OEM gaskets work just fine also. For sure the OEM has been tested many more times and on a load of cars.
So I'm removing these headers today to order the earl gaskets. I'm going to figure out what gasket I need. I never knew there were so many different shapes of gaskets for the same engine... Round port, D port, square port at 1.35" and 1.5....
A note - with your site 'handle', it sounds like you are putting these gaskets on a '23 T-bucket. If those headers and exhaust, like many(most?), are supported only by the header bolts and nothing else, even the Earl's gaskets can fail
Found the issue. I suppose I should get the round port ones
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...D3F5DCD562.jpg
Well here is the other side that wasn't blown out and is correct. It's a square port and is under 1 1/2" it appears to be closer to 1 3/8" which is the 1.360 square port gasket.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...D74FBC1915.jpg
I prefer the thicker graphite header gaskets with the locking header bolts.
I run sprint headers with nothing but the header bolts supporting the whole mess and in 10 years I have never had a gasket failure or a loose bolt.
Again as long as the clamping pressure is even it is a no brainer, notice plane old allen head bolts and lock washers. I just like the allen's I use them all over the motor, only a personal preference not a speed trick.
I think if you just get OEM or a descent after market gasket, make very sure the clamping pressure is even. Start from the center ports and work to the end you should be just fine. Starting from the two center ports will help flatten the flange if there is some skew from welding.
Looking at your gasket picture, looks to me that one side was paper they are commonly shipped by some of the header builders. Why I have no idea cause the price of a reasonable header gasket is small potatoes.
Look at the port in the head, if it is round then by all means use the round profile, if rectangle get that profile.
Header Gaskets Sbc - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Attachment 56276
Spotted this in your post, "header with a 1/2" flange" I have a question you are saying the flange is .5 thick?
Then I ask, are you possibly using the stock length bolts if so that's the problem add .5 too the length and replace all 8. I would think a Hooker header with a .5 flange would not have skew/warp from welding, possible but I give them more credit then that.
The 1/2" flange was actually another header I was referring to that I worked with in the past. It was an OBX header and the fel pro gasket wouldn't seal. I finally had to use some copper gasket sealant to make it seat.
Thank you though I will take your advice with the cranking of the bolts. I was planning on using the Allen head bolts as well. The headers are on my 41 Willys here so they have plenty of support.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0ABFC9253D.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0A92657C53.jpg