HEI ignition for a 283

Got my old GMC pickup running (with a 1966 283) after a long time in storage. In a past post, it was suggested that I get an HEI ignition - and I was given this link for Summit for about $90.
Summit Racing SUM-850001R - Summit Racing® Blueprinted HEI Distributors - Suggested Parts - SummitRacing.com

Techinspector1 suggested in the other post to hook up a wire directly from the ignition switch to the HEI. Currently, the wire for the coil goes from the starter to a ballast to reduce the voltage, then to the coil. Do I remove this wire and instead hook up a wire directly from the key switch to the coil, or do I just run a wire from the starter directly to the coil and get rid of the ballast?

This will get rid of my distrib and points, right? I still keep my coil, right? Do I need anything to keep from getting static on my radio?

Thanks for the help. I'm learning a lot as I get this truck running.

That HEI has a built in coil...you won't use your original coil at all. Do as Tech suggested and it will work fine.

ballast like you said cut the voltage to keep points happy .HEI you want 12 volts going to the dist.

....and you shouldn't have any problems with radio static with the HEI.

If you hear static on your radio the exhaust isn't loud enough or the truck isn't running--------

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

If you hear static on your radio the exhaust isn't loud enough or the truck isn't running--------

---

who the hell has a radio ?

Thanks Guys, I didn't realize HEI had a built in coil. I will hopefully pick one up this week. I assume install is just remove old distrib, and put the new HEI in it's place?

Do I just cut off the hot wire running from the starter and use a new wire from the ignition, or use the starter wire and just bypass the ballast?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hpcbmw

Thanks Guys, I didn't realize HEI had a built in coil. I will hopefully pick one up this week. I assume install is just remove old distrib, and put the new HEI in it's place?

Do I just cut off the hot wire running from the starter and use a new wire from the ignition, or use the starter wire and just bypass the ballast?

---

If it were me I'd use the wire from the starter and take out the ballast, after first verifying that I had the full battery voltage for start, and then once started for the run condition.

Just remove the ballast resistor. That will give you 12 volts to the HEI in the run position.

Here, try this picture. It should give you a basic idea of what your trying to do. Check the wire that goes to the positive side of your coil, (disconnect it first) with the ignition switch in the run position, see if it has 12 volts on it. If it does your all set! That will be the 12 volt input into the HEI distributor. If it doesn't, follow it back to the ignition switch, measure voltage at the switch. It "should have" 12 volts ( or battery voltage) at the switch. If you have 12 volts (or battery voltage) at the switch but not at the coil, there is either a ballast resistor in the circuit or the wire itself is resistor wire.

If you have a known resistor, bypass it (simply connect together the 2 wires you remove from the ballast resistor) If the wire itself is the resistor, then simply run a new piece of wire from the switch to the new distributor.

Maybe this will help or you can simply ignore me...:LOL:

Thanks guys. The pic was very helpful. Checking with my local speed shop to see if they can get the Summit HEI or a similar product. Hoping to have the HEI and a new carb installed in the next week.

Glad to hear it! If you're interested in Summit products. You can search Summit dot com yourself! Summit Racing
They'll ship right to your door alot of times next day!

You can cut out the middleman and save a few dollars too!

Keep us informed with your progress, we always like to hear the outcome!

..

If you disconnect a resistive wire and check voltage, you'll measure full source voltage.

The resistive wire won't drop voltage without a load.

your going to need a new set of plug wires also plus gap the plugs at about.40 you will be vary happy with the change .....ted

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

If you disconnect a resistive wire and check voltage, you'll measure full source voltage.

The resistive wire won't drop voltage without a load.

---

Say what? Whoever told you that was pulling your leg. With the wire disconnected there will be minimal current flow, but there will definitely be a voltage drop.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Say what? Whoever told you that was pulling your leg. With the wire disconnected there will be minimal current flow, but there will definitely be a voltage drop.

---

Yeah, when in the "Ohm's" mode the multi-meter puts it's internal battery voltage through the component being measured, and meters the drop accordingly. Mine uses a 1.5V AAA battery for voltage source.

Ted - can you explain why I will need new plug wires? Is there that much more power going from the distrib to the plugs? Do I need a certain type or thickness of plug wire?

Thanks!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rspears

Yeah, when in the "Ohm's" mode the multi-meter puts it's internal battery voltage through the component being measured, and meters the drop accordingly. Mine uses a 1.5V AAA battery for voltage source.

---

And when the meter is in the DC voltage range the meter will supply the load

[QUOTE=hpcbmw;477887]Ted - can you explain why I will need new plug wires? Is there that much more power going from the distrib to the plugs? Do I need a certain type or thickness of plug wire?

If you have more than 500 ohms on any wire I'd replace them all. Taylor makes a good inexpensive set of wires and there are others, but I'd stay away from Accell.

Day..

With wire disconnected there will not be a current flow. Not minimal, not at all. No current flow equals no voltage drop means you will measure source voltage as the meter gives 20 meg ohms resistance to circuit.

When you switch to ohms, yes the meter provides the voltage but now you are measuring resistance not volts.

If you want to see if it is a resistive feed, check voltage at the coil. If you get full source voltage ( or close ) then it's not a resistive wire. If you get significantly below source voltage, then the feed wire is resistive, providing voltage drop WHEN CURRENT IS FLOWING. Again, voltage drop across a resistor is a result of current flow. Because the meter isolates the circuit with 20 meg ohms, there is essentially no current. Or you can argue that indeed there will be current, and as a series circuit the voltage will drop across the larger resistance, IE the 20 meg ohms of the meter.

And no, my leg wasn't pulled in my three year electronics technology course.

the dist. end of the conventional plug wires are male termination and the hei are female so if you order from summit order the 116.91 set and you will be ok as far as the input wire is concerned there is two types one uses a ballast resistor the other uses a nichrome wire witch is a resistor wire I have never seen one that uses both so if yours has a ballast resistor just remove it and you should be fine if you have battery voltage at the wire when the key is on .....ted

Thanks Ted, I'll order plug wires when I order the HEI distrib. I've got a ballast in my wiring, so I'll just bypass that. I'm nstalling an Edelbrock carb this weekend, then will buy the HEI and plug wires on my next paycheck.