Bickering with Machine Shop- Help Settle Dispute

I'd like to get your feedback on a dispute with a machine shop if you don't mind...

I recently bought a 1 pc. RMS block from a machine shop across the country. I spelled out that I needed a one-piece rms block, bored .040 over, and clearanced for 400 crank. Cams we never discussed. What I got was a non-roller block (no bosses at all) with a one-piece RMS. The shop is willing to take it back, but we're at odds over about $200 in shipping charges. We both agree that no one discussed needing a roller cam, or that the block might not support a roller cam.

Shop's take:
I didn't tell them that I needed a roller cam setup, so it is my fault, and I should pay for return shipping. I managed to tell them the other specs. Why didn't I tell them about the cam requirements?

My take:
The reason I bought the block was to upgrade to an OEM roller cam setup, since I needed a new block anyway. The fact that these blocks even exist was a surprise to me, so it didn't occur to me to tell them I needed a roller setup.
The shop should have asked me if I needed a roller cam setup if they are selling such blocks. They didn't ask, so they need to refund me for both the block and freight, so I'm out of pocket $0.

Your take?
What do you think? Is it the shop's responsibility to ask all the questions, or the customer's responsibility to be specific enough to get the right block.

Thanks for your input!

The block they sent you meets all your STATED requirements

There are a few items that are descriptive of these blocks

one piece rear seal

2 bolt/4 bolt mains

roller cam setup

I think everyone shares some blame and you all should work it out to be mutually beneficial. fwiw.. or, do the best you can..

if you did not ask for a Gm stock roller cam block then it.s not there fault . they solid you what you asked for a one pc rearmain seal block cut for a 3.750 crank and 040 over. all sbc and bbc will take a roller cam . in the long run if your paying for shipping see if they will work out a deal on selling you the roller lifters for the older block at cost

I agree with Pat McCarthy and would like to add. Arguing with a parts guy is like wrestling in the mud with a pig, sooner or later you realize the pig enjoys it. :whacked::LOL:

Welcome to CHR!

This is a tough first post, kfox. I can tell you that everyone on this site has done something similar. It doesn’t matter if it’s twenty or two-hundred; when the deliverables do not meet my expectations I’m not happy. As I see it, you have three choices:
1 – Send the block back, pay the two hundred and tell them, “I’ll never deal with you again!” Outcome – nobody wins.
2 – Send the block back, pay the two hundred and get a new roller block. Outcome – they win and you smart a bit, but learn a lesson and believe me, if it’s the most expensive one you have to learn you’ll be miles ahead of me!!
3 – Call them up and admit to your “confusion-in-your-elation-to-order-the-killer-block-setup!” Tell them you really want to make this right and still use their services. You’ll still pay the 200 – but ask nicely (as Pat suggested) about a deal on lifters, or some other parts that they may be able to help you out on. Outcome – you’re still out the 200, but it’s closer to a situation where everybody wins.

I screwed up a cam install one time and destroyed a lobe before even firing up the engine (long story – don’t ask!) I went back to the machine shop where I had the block prepped and showed them the cam and we all agreed it was my fault. These guys must have taken pity on me because I got a replacement cam at their cost and a $25 gift certificate toward future work. That was a huge deal for me in the 70’s and I never forgot them – used them for lots more machine work until their shop closed,

Good luck and let us know what works out!
Glenn

Welcome to CHR, and as Glenn says you're starting off with a tough first post. I already voted on the poll, but thought I'd offer that I think Glenn has the right approach. My initial thought was that you did not tell them you wanted a roller cam block, so you got what you got, but you may well be able to work with them and get some parts at cost, or some benefit by agreeing to work with them. Admit your mistake, and ask if there's any way to turn a bad situation into something that works a little better for you.
Good luck, and keep us posted on the outcome.

I posted about the roller block would of been more money as the core would have cost more , but site has been acting silly so it didn't appear------

I know that Pat and I are probably the only 2 on here who have experience in doing these blocks and this poster is an online shopper looking for the best deal, but didn't research/state his needs correctly----I would almost bet lunch that he cancels cc payment under a protest---------

Hasn't even been back to see how his poll is going???????????///

!
Sorry!
Was asking about bosses!
Never mind

Thanks for the feedback and the welcome everyone. Jerry, To your point, you are right, I did dispute it with my credit card company, but the shop owner and I mutually agreed to use them as a mediator (he actually called them first). The shop wasn't the best deal, but I thought they had what I needed.

Going into this I was convinced there were no SBCs with a 1 pc that didn't at least have the bosses for the OEM roller. You all are showing me differently.

Given the poll results and comments it's looking like I need to eat the shipping and call it a lesson learned.

Thanks again.

The only differance in $$$$$$$will be what ever the cost differance is between oem type rollers and a set up of aftermarket hyd rollers---------Your in San Diego---go over to Crower and tell em Jerry sent you-------

We have more people wanting roller blocks and an adapter to put 2 piece seal and pan on a one piece seal block---------

That's what I'm doing too- moving to one piece for the OEM roller. It is a little better financially if you need a new block anyway. Thanks for the referral to Crower- good to know they are right here in town.

a little better financially)) you do know that you need a different flywheel, a rear seal adapter, different oil pan, all the dog bones and the spider? and they take a different crank? your postings say something about a 400 crank?? you know that the mains are too big?

Sounds like you have found a resolution to the problem. Like many of the others here have stated we've been where you are before and feel your pain. I think when ever you can reach a mutual understanding with a company on a purchase mistake it works out best for everyone in the end. Once you get past these initial hickups, come back and post your engine build. And welcome to Club Hot Rod.

Yup..been there,done that..back in the late 90's,I ordered a set of KB hypereutectic pistons,for my Mopar B/B stroker..Using 440 crank n rods in a 400 block..I spent quite a few minutes talking to the guy ( in West Virginia,I think),about what I wanted,,did the deal,,paid the money,and NZ$650 and a few weeks later my slugs turned up.. Several weeks later,when my friend started on the block,,he found I had pistons for 400 rods/440 crank..Blast,,,ring Gary Howell(?) again and talk..''No sir,,thats what you ordered''.. Yeah,right..Try sending something back from the other side of the world...:mad::mad: Hmm,,never mind..Order the CORRECT ones.. NZ $750+ shipping later....:(:(:D Never mind,,had to be done..I am SURE I told the guy what I needed,,but how can ya argue with someone on the other side of the world??

Retro roller vs. OEM roller $$$...I actually have a 383 crank not a true 400. Flywheel is fine, old oil pan will work if you get the rms adapter to fit it. So figure you save about $400 on lifters, and have to spend about $250 on adapter and spider/dog bones/retainer. Pretty much a wash.

Well-looks like you have schooled up on the differances----I have new billet alum adapters to use the early crank and pans with the late one piece blocks plus several used spiders and dogbones plus core rollers if you want to have them rebuilt----

retros lifters are not $400 less you want to pay that ? if you need a cam can pick of a bare bones kit howards for 519. cam and lifter BUT do not forget you will need a way to hold the cam from walking like a cam button