I want to make my 350 to a 383 and put some 2.02 in. valves in the heads are the seats big enought for that. And should I go with 1.60 ex. valves also.
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I want to make my 350 to a 383 and put some 2.02 in. valves in the heads are the seats big enought for that. And should I go with 1.60 ex. valves also.
I would just buy new heads Aluminum heads have been coming down in price. By the time you pay for machining and parts you'd be close to a new set.
Yup, what Charlie said! AFR has some very affordable heads that perform excellent, along with the Edelbrock RPM's and Victor Jr's. for a bit more performance. Trick flow also has a very nice set (Track Heat) that will flow plenty for a 383 Chevy.... By the time you pay the labor on new seats, guides, then the parts bill for new valves, springs, and retainers and miscellaneous you'll be over the price of new one's and still not have the performance.. Some of the new head designs perform better out of the box then a reworked, flowed, and cc'd set of old design heads.....
You just gotta be careful on how far you go and make sure the pistons you get are domed/notched for the chambers and valve size/locations------
Yup, what Charlie said. Cheapest way to make good power currently with a 383 is 10.0:1 static compression ratio and Pro-Filer 195 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 750 carb, 1 3/4" long-tube headers, cam with 220 to 225 degrees intake duration @0.050" tappet lift. I only work with old-style carbureted systems, know nothing about EFI and do not care to learn.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevena
http://www.profilerperformance.com/r.../sbc-23-degree
Pair complete with roller cam springs, less than $1100.
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