Please help I am racking my brain on this one.

[aahx2011]

After hearing from everyone on here I went back on my 350 and reset the timing gears for advance timing now the engine will not start. I checked the fire it seems to be getting good fire, and has plenty of fuel. Am I overlooking something or should I just set this thing to stock timing I used the Comp Cams extreme 4x4 cam

[rspears]

Check to be sure you didn't stab the distributor 180 degrees out of phase. It's easy to do, hitting TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of compression.

[34_40]

Well, if it isn't running now.. you've got no choice but to go back to basics. Bring # 1 up to Top Dead Center, verify the crank / cam indications and verify the distributor points to number 1.

[aahx2011]

I have checked the gears and the distributor at least a dozen times now, I have brought it up to top dead center on number one, checked the rotor for location, I have pulled the timing cover and checked my marks to make sure I didn't get something out of line there, checked for spark, made sure it had good fresh fuel. I am sure it is probably something simple I am over looking but for the life of me can't figure out what that would be. I had a friend of mine that went through the same thing I am and he never did get his to start when he set it for advance, just wonder if this cam will not allow me to go that far advance. the package from cloyes states that it is 4 degrees advance.

[rspears]

I know it's basic, but did you pull the #1 plug, stick your finger/thumb over the hole, and verify 100% that you were on the compression stroke when you set TDC? It doesn't make sense that advancing the cam a few degrees would stop it from starting....

[NTFDAY]

Did you remember to put the rotor bug back in?

[34_40]

When I say verify #1 at TDC, I mean take out the plug(s) and either view the piston or touch the top of the piston after holding the cylinder closed with your finger and feeling compression blow past as the piston travels up. Don't trust the balancer lines at this point.

[aahx2011]

Yep I did it again, I went pulled number one plug and put it on top dead center and reset the distributor and it fired right up. Thanks guys this engine build has been a nightmare for me but I am just about done. I do have one other question, I put in new lifters and they are still ticking at me I talked to parts store and they said to bring up the truck and they would verify and warranty them for. I just want to know if I may have done something wrong or did i just get some bad parts again which has been the theme from this parts store on this build. They are a little slower of a store and parts do seem to sit around for a while before they sell them.

[hotshot46]

Well, I went through the same thing and guess. what??/ duhhh No gas . fired and found out a full tank of gas went into the night. ( stolen. ) only need three things ign and o2 and petro.

[techinspector1]

only need three things ign and o2 and petro.

And a big dog tied to the bumper.

.

[cffisher]

did you preload your lifters??? Did you run the oil pump before starting the engine? Could be they are not pumped up. How did you adjust them??

[rspears]

Before you get into any more second guessing take the truck out and run it down the road for a bit, getting it fully up to operating temperature and running it easy through the rpm range - no need to see 5000rpm or more, but run it up & down, exercising the engine a bit. Then come back and see if the lifters are still clicking. If so then I'd let it cool down and go through them again, being 100% sure that you're starting on #1 compression, both valves closed and off the lifters, and proceed through your firing order getting the pre-load right. If they still click then think about going to see your supplier. Just my $0.02....

[aahx2011]

The cam came with instructions that said not pre-load the lifters as it could damage the cam during initial break-in, I have run it and adjusted the lifters a couple of times now and still sounds awful. I drove it to work and back yesterday and it ran fine just noisy from the lifters, work and back is about 60 miles round trip. I adjusted them at work and them again when I got home. I guess it is time to replace them and try again.

[techinspector1]

I have run it and adjusted the lifters a couple of times now and still sounds awful.

That's because you've been suckered into buying one of those fosdick, *&%$^%^&^^% piece of !#@$ Extreme Energy pile of steaming dog poo camshafts. It's always gonna be noisy as H%@# all the time it's in the motor and it will fail prematurely. The engineers who concocted this garbage design should be chained to a pole and caned.

Here, maybe this will help you in your valve adjustments later on when you do another motor.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...stment_SBC/BBC

OK, I'll explain.
Many years ago, Harvey Crane of Crane Cams postulated the idea of "hydraulic intensity". This is the work that a lobe does in lifting the lifter off the base circle of the cam to the nose of the cam. You can grind a cam lobe design that will do this work rather easily, as with some of the factory grinds, or you can ask the lobe to lift the lifter quickly, as in the Extreme grinds. Harvey ground most of his cams on a hydraulic intensity of 62 for years and years.

The amount of work that the lobe is asked to do can be seen by subtracting the 0.050" duration from the 0.006" (advertised) duration. A 300/230 cam would have a hydraulic intensity of 70 and would be very easy on all the associated parts. A 300/260 cam would have a hydraulic intensity of 40 and would be asking the lobe to yank the valve open and slam the valve back down quickly. Of course, the valve isn't slammed down onto it's seat, but it is made to unseat and seat itself very quickly and is therefore required to do more work than its lower intensity brethren. This larger "window" of valve open time makes more horsepower because the valve is open longer than it would be with a slower-opening/closing lobe. I have done multiple Dyno-Sims on these cams in relation to slower lobe cams and I can find only about 10 hp on a 400 hp build.

This Extreme design is a competition design, where you might be interested in making another 10 hp so you could drive around the guy who has been running ahead of you forever. The design itself requires that the builder does everything right on the build and then does frequent inspections on the install throughout the racing life of the motor. THIS LOBE DESIGN HAS NO BUSINESS IN A STREET MOTOR.

"If nothing else leads to its downfall, a profile ground on a good core can have a hydraulic intensity of 50° - 55° and be a pretty safe bet in terms of reliability."
David Vizard


.

[cffisher]

my question is how did you adjust them??? run them down then back off x number of turns? If they are adjusted to far down they won't, can't get oil in them. Guess I don't understand this. I'll sit back and learn .