Printable View
I estimate my upper joint angle (Borgeson 1"DD to 3/4" DD) at 43 degrees. Their spec calls for 35 maximum. It turns the rack smoothly, but I don't really like being out of spec on steering. I could probably drop the column (it is 38 degrees wrt floor) and get it to 35 with a pain in my rump.
What do ya'll think?
Many Thanks, Regards, Kitz
shorten up the steering column tube no more than 1 inch or 2 hang out of the fire wall and add one more u joint and and you need to add a rod end to hold it from whipping and mount the rod end to the frame. and your shaft will need redone .i use 1 wood rod cut it turn the end down with a grinder so they fit in then work with the wood rod to were you want the u joints and then order your shafts
Kitz. Are you using the double u-joint at the column? If so, these are good to 70 degrees. You must use a shaft support bearing with this joint. Total length of double is 4 7/8". Single is 3 1/4". Hope this helps. Borgeson tech phone # 860-482-8283
I am really trying to do this without having to use a support bearing. I probably need to call Borgeson but I know what they are likely to say. I think its a liability thing. Lokar claims their joints can only handle 30 degrees. I can see no difference between theirs and the Borgeson (I have both). Hmmmm .....
Since I'm running side pipes the headers come straight out from the heads and do leave lots of room ...............
Thanks for the replies; still pondering .....................
Kitz
Sorry ...... Flaming River joint not Lokar who does not make them!
Kitz
as long as he has room on the back headder tube that looks great like i tried to say the column is i think to long. i do not think i would run them at 43 angle this is to much but you can on the gm big window type joints. there is more lever actions working on the streering joint to you can make a lot of torque with a streering wheel and borgeson gets in to thisQuote:
Originally posted by DennyW
:) If you want to get the feel of what works better, get your half inch extension, and universal joint, along with a short extension, and try different angles. You will be able to feel side load, and binding.
Heres a little rework on the steering angle.
a little longer colum drop may get you there.
Quote:
Originally posted by kitz
I estimate my upper joint angle (Borgeson 1"DD to 3/4" DD) at 43 degrees. Their spec calls for 35 maximum. It turns the rack smoothly, but I don't really like being out of spec on steering. I could probably drop the column (it is 38 degrees wrt floor) and get it to 35 with a pain in my rump.
What do ya'll think?
Many Thanks, Regards, Kitz
WRT means With Reference to Floor?
The angle should be measured between column and shaft.
Any chance you could lower the column to where it comes out of the firewall a little lower as well as drop it a little lower at the column drop?
Here's a pic of my 31 on 32 rails roadster project.
(I'll post another of the angle inside the cockpit.)
It measures a little less than 30 degrees.
Steering column shaft is a stock uncut GM running in a ball bearing home-made aluminum steering column.
I also run the same setup/angle in a 32 roadster and no probs in 43,000 miles.
Here's a shot of the interior.
The same angle/ergonomics were used in the 32 and it's a comfortable car to spend the day in.
My thanks to all for your replies!
I am going to bring the angle into Borgeson's specs either by reducing column protrusion beyond firewall and/or increasing the column drop.
Best Regards, Kitz
Or get a double u-joint link.Quote:
Originally posted by kitz
My thanks to all for your replies!
I am going to bring the angle into Borgeson's specs either by reducing column protrusion beyond firewall and/or increasing the column drop.
Best Regards, Kitz
Hey, I really like your column drop...did you fabricate it yourself or buy it?Quote:
Originally posted by C9x
Here's a shot of the interior.
The same angle/ergonomics were used in the 32 and it's a comfortable car to spend the day in.
that would be one aluminun rod and it dos look good:)
Not quite.Quote:
Originally posted by resin addict
Hey, I really like your column drop...did you fabricate it yourself or buy it?
Here's a pic of one I did fabricate out of 1/2" aluminum along with a column adapter device.
Looks a little big and gawky in the pic, but much of it is hidden behind the 32 style dash.
I have one in the 32, cool place for a rod run plaque or and instrument or two.
Note the angled flat piece on top of the 1" square tubing cross-bar.
It has holes to match the column drop spaced 1" apart to allow the column to move transversely.
I was glad I did it because I needed to go 1" more to the left for a proper fit.
The angled flat piece has gussets, they weren't welded in at this point.
This pic shows the aluminum con rod during the initial install.
Again, a drilled plate is used although this time the holes are paired up vertically.
And the gussets still aren't in.
I've found aluminum rods at swap meets with no problems.
They seem to run $5.00 apiece.
At least that was the price at March Meet and California Hot Rod Reunion.
You'll find them brand new as rejects that failed inspection sometime during the manufacturing.
The one shown in the pic hadn't got to the point where the wrist pin hole was done - and the upper excess aluminum trimmed off.
That made life really easy in this install.
Two bolt holes and that was it.
This particular rod has a 2 1/2" bore, so it required an adapter for the 1 5/8" OD aluminum column.
The adapter was made to be a moderate crush fit when the rod bolts are cranked up and that also locks the rod/adapter to the column.
(Disregard the round aluminum piece below the con rod.
It's the floor escutcheon plate, not drilled for mounting holes yet.
It's where it is so it wouldn't get lost during a move from California to Arizona.
The weird looking steering wheel splines are for a quick-release.
Aluminum rods make great tail-pipe hangers.
A polyurethane or UHMW bushing is easy to make so as to adapt the small end to a horizontal bolt for a hanger.