More questions on getting the frame ready

First off, I'm sorry if these are questions that have been asked, or if the answer might seem obvious, but here in W. Michigan, there's not very many people to ask these questions to.
Anyway, from all the reading I've done, I know I need to add a front panhard bar (dropped I-Beam axel with hairpins).
What I'm not sure of is the alignment. I'm looking at the unit from Pete and Jakes, and my question is: Will the bracket I mount to the frame be the correct length (vertically), or does it need to be adjusted to match the rest of the front suspension?
I haven't bought an engine yet, so I can't install that in the frame to get everything to the final ride height. Will this be a problem, or do I just align it with the other componants?
If need be, I could probably get an old engine to temporarily mount (for weight purposes), but if that's not necessary, I'd just as soon not.
I do have one of the plastic blocks for the rest of the setup (clearances, etc.) but that obviously doesn't have the weight necessary to get the front suspension to ride height.
One more question, the bolt/pin that goes throught the front transverse spring is just for alignment, correct? The leafs are actually held together by the two clamps midway to the ends?
The bolt/pin just goes into the hole in the front crossmember, but the nut on the underside of the spring doesn't need to be tightened enough to compress the spring; right?
Thanks again for all your help, I'm learning as I go, thanks to you guys.

The bolt in the spring is used for alignment and it does compress the spring as well, so the nut needs to be snug. I used Pete & Jake's front four-bar unit on my previous rod, and it worked out very well. If you buy their unit, it will come with some very good instructions about how much positive camber, etc., and they will provide you with technical assistance if you need it.

All of your suspension components, especially the panhard bar, should be mounted with the car at ride height with the engine and tranny installed to simulate the weight of the car when it is finished. Once you have all the weight in the car and it is supported by the tires and wheels, or jackstands under the axles, have a couple of real heavy duty guys bounce the car real good to settle it in. None of the bolts locating the suspension should be final torqued until this is done. The thru-bolt on the spring does need to be tight and should be a lock nut with blue thread locker to secure it.

Ask away on your questions, beats the heck out of making a mistake that could become hazardous to you and or your car later!!!!!

Ideally the panhard bar should be parallel with the ground when the suspension settles to ride height. It can stand a little "off kilter" without ill effect. Even if you put a complete engine in it still wouldn't simulate full front weight as you won't have anything for coolant, oil, loaded fuel tank (yes, even though it's in back, a portion of it's weight transfers to the front), and everything else that goes in/on the car.

P&J designs the bracket you're asking about to be the correct length for the typical 4" dropped axle, with reverse eye stock thickness spring, mounted to a Model A style front crossmember arrangement, so you shouldn't have to modify it if this is what you're doing.

In addition to the comments above, when assembling and disassembling the front (or rear for that matter) spring it's advisable to use a large C-clamp (or similar) when installing or removing the center bolt nut. Lots of stored energy in a compressed spring.

Bob, I think you've answered my question, and after re-reading I see that maybe I didn't word it clearly enough.
When I bought my chassis/frame it was 95% completed, but the original owner had not had it built to include a panhard bar. The front suspension is complete and in place, brake lines all run, motor mounts installed, basically a complete rolling chassis ready for paint. As I said, I know I also want a panhard bar, so before I dis-assemble it to have the frame painted I want to get the panhard bar bracket welded on.
If I'm reading Bob's response correctly, the bracket that I will have welded to the frame is designed to be the corect vertical length (height) for a 4" dropped axle with std. reverse eye spring a stock cross-member, right?
Thanks again,
Randy

one more view...

If you want to get it right, you should do it with the full weight of engine and transmission installed and the body in place. True, any aftermarket part company will sell a generic panhard bracket that is close to being correct, but they can not foresee all of the variables.
If you put about 300 pounds on each framerail at a point about level with where the firewall should be, that will be a close enough simulation of the total weight.
Call 2 fat friends over and have them stand on it, and no, its too far away for me to come over.

I've never run a panhard bar, so I can't help with suggestions, but I just wanted to tell you how great your car looks so far. Buick drums are the best, aren't they?

RumRumm; Is that your Yellow Coupe on your Post, do you have any pictures , if so looks to be a nice ride with an equally nice stance, could you post some Pic's , Thanks Tim

Why go through all the trouble of a panhard bar on a straight axle, transverse spring car? There's an easier way. A dead perch works just fine, cuts down the clutter, and is much easeir to install.

I agree with Henry - and someone posted on your other thread about using a dead perch.

We've used the Deuce Factory adjustable spring perch, and an adjustable dead perch on the opposite side for at least 25 chassis.....works perfectly and MUCH cleaner looking.

If you get the adjustable one and use it with an adjustable perch you can adjust caster with no spring bind.

http://www.deucefactory.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=111

im looking for 32 hiboy frame with nothing on it. Looking for a new frame but will also take an old one