Thread: brookville experience

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just picked up my 32 body > i have to say i had a great experience with the guys with brookville they were very friendly and very helpfull as well > i even got a few free parts for the car from them . i picked it up at york on thursday and i have to say the body looks great and so far i have no complaints and i am very excited to get the project finished up > im looking to run the car in august as well as take it to florida in november to visit my friend whom moved out there. well thats all and i will be updating my build thread so look for pics soon

Every year at Daytona I stop by the Brookville booth, and swear I am going to buy their '29 RP body, and they have always been very helpful and friendly. I envy you for getting yours and am glad to hear your buying experience was so positive.

From everything I have seen, you won't be sorry. Yes, pictures please.

Don

Always exciting to get new toys.

Based on some of your earlier posts I thought I'd drop a suggestion in here while it's early in the bodywork phase if you hadn't already planned to do this. And this isn't a rap on Brookville (I'll leave that for Dave ). Brookville builds their bodies to emulate Henry's originals, which is to say they're a bit flexible. If you plan on keeping the car and using it as much as practical you might want to reinforce it inside. A cowl hoop will reduce the dreaded cowl shake, and give you a more solid spot to mount the steering column and whatever else under the dash. And then the rear of the passenger compartment to firm up from the B pillars back. Here's a pic of what SAR does when they assemble a B'ville body for reference, but it can be done with round or square tube as well. The idea is to tie together the two sides.

Nice pic Bob.
Appreciate you putting it up.

There would be some advantages to having an X bar as shown other than to help in the body flex dept.

I would guess that you'd want to have a stiff frame.
If the frame is flexy and the body stiff I can see some damage happening in the body mount areas.

Sometimes we get locked into doing things a certain way.
The cowl hoop I planned to put into the 31 was going to be round tubing.
(Not to mention finding a guy with a tube bender in this small town.)
Sure looks easier to make it from 1" x 2" x .090 wall rectangular tubing.
Not to mention tying it down wouldn't require overly fancy tabs.
And tying the steering cross-bar to it would be easy.

Since the fuel tanks on my 31 on 32 rails roadster project are going in the frame under the body I have room for a spare tire.
The X bar would make life easy there.
As well as make it easy to put a piece of plywood in that separates trunk from cockpit.

Good stuff....

Isn't that another reinforcement on the floor just behind the doors? Also, I like the fact that the door openings are braced shut during the mockup. Keeps the fit where you want it. Is that Brookville's brace, or SAR's?

You are ever observant Jack!!! Yes, those are both items SAR does that B'ville doesn't. They also don't prime the bodies with the laquer primer that B'ville uses, saves lots of time and effort in removal.

When you build a Kylecar, your observation abilities rise significantly.

They are set up just behind us in York. Cool group of guys...we have been hanging out the last few nights and they love their job

thanks for the info guys and that goes for past posts from before also ....meaning someone told me not to have them use their primer so i didnt ...good move . what i did was i sent them my already purchased punched louver deck lid already primed in black epoxy primer inside and out so they also used my primer i sent them to spray the under inside of the deck lid before they mated the two halves so i didnt get rust inside and have to look at that , they also epoxy primed the underside of the flor for me before assemble . very helpfull.... the rest i had them keep bare steel so i can prime it myself and do any body work needed but let me tell you it looks almost flawless!!! still cant believe how nice it is ...i go in the garage and just stare , it is hard to start working ....lol . anyway i also had the deck former installed so it is alot stiffer but i have boxed steel to use for more reinforcing . my frame is very sturdy and really shouldnt flex the heck out of it too much . i look at some of the other frame manufactures and they look like they can twist a bit under hard accelleration easially . not saying my is the best and all are infeariour but i think i have a good starting point .. , anyone have cowl pics with the reinforcing??

I also believe that the original style rear deck is stiffer. You may want to make a small bracket or brace to help keep the door post from flexing ... they do flex and sometimes will hairline crack the paint if you do not. On my original Deuce body ... this was a issue.



My original frame rails were boxed and braced up a good bit. It is fairly stiff also. I have no extra bracing under my roadster cowl and have NO COWL shake ... thanks to a stiffer frame.

Congratulations ...
Getting new toys is alway good.

Post pictures of your build and progress

This is how the Dearborn Deuce is reinforced in the cowl area. They use a piece of 1"x3" rectangular tubing that goes from the floor on one side up and fits the radius of the cowl and down to the floor on th other side, Then a diagonal piece out of the same material. The door hinges are also mounted to this piece. It is the most rigid body I have ever seen. Hope this helps.
Ken

Now I just need to talk them into sliding some aluminum panels in the benders /presses and make me a all aluminum body!!!!That way it will match my aluminum frame plans.........

Shawnlee, a company in Sweden called "Reprosteel" is making aluminum '32 roadster bodies. Go to Roadsters.com for all the information and price list.

Mick

I had never seen how the Dearbourne Deuce was braced before Ken posted those pics. I'm surprised because I also used 1 x 3 box tubing for the cowl in my 30 Brookville and I incorporated my Hagan hiden hinges into this 1 x 3 tubing which made my cowl way stiffer and also added support/stiffining to my roadster doors. My column drop feels like it is set in cement and this tubing like others mentioned has helped with attaching everything.

Bob, this is an old thread but I have been looking at every picture of a steering wheel and column on the Forum that I can and in particular the picture you show here is on a tilt column of the same type I have. I have been testing with an old junk Camaro wheel which has at least a 3" dish and it is horrible, half way up the windshield impairing vision through the chopped windshield and to make matters worse I can barely get in/out of the seat! Maybe I have to reengineer the column drop but for now it is on the bottom edge of the '32 style dash and the "tulip" part of the upper column is on the top of the column drop so it can't do down further unless I move the drop with considerable effort. Soooo, I have noticed you have a flat wheel here and a few others have flat wheels. So far most of the wheels I see commercially available have at least a 2" dish but I think I could gain 2" clearance all around if I had a flat wheel with zero dish and 13" diameter, so what it the name/type/brand of the wheel in your picture and maybe you can recommend a 13" flat wheel that can host a horn button?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder