’32 3W Coupe roller package advise/opinions wanted

I’m in the planning stages of a ’32 Deuce 3w project. This will be my first ground up build so I would like to get started on the right foot with a quality body/chassis roller package. The body will have to be fiberglass as a steel Deuce body is out of the budget. I’ve talked to Duane at N&N Fiberglass several times about one of his ’32 3w body and chassis combo and I’ve also talked to RJ of RJay’s Speed Shop about one of his Show Me Rod & Custom Deuce body with a Pete & Jakes Stage 3 chassis combos.

Could anyone offer words of wisdom regarding their experiences with either of these companies or offer any advice that would be helpful to a first time builder. I've been browsing around the Deuce Den reading the topics that might help, lots of good info there.

Thanks, Mike

Both those body companies have a good name and Pete & Jakes is a staple in the hobby, so parts wise you're on the right track. Where most people get sideways is in underestimating how much it's really going to cost and how long it's going to take. Building a ground up vehicle and purchasing (one way or another) all the necessary components is a relatively complex task, especially if you're shooting for a quality build not just a bare bones get down the road deal. If you haven't done this sort of thing before, you'll likely need to double your expected budget and tripple the time frame you've got in mind. Not trying to talk you out of it, or discourage you, just trying to help you set realistic objectives which will ultimately lead to better success. A high percentage of this type project never get finished because the person gets overwhelmed, burned out, whatever expression you prefer, because they were unprepared for what obstacles they had to overcome. If you prepare wisely you'll minimize the downers and enjoy the fruits of success.

My gut feel is that N&N gives more bang for the buck, and it looks like the chassis he uses is virtually identical to a P&J unit.

Bob's right about the cost. First timers think they have the bulk of the project paid for when they bring home a body on a rolling chassis. Tain't so. You'll be lucky if that covers half.

The best advice is to plan out every detail. Have a mental image (or even a sketch or a cutout from a magazine) of what you want the final product to be.

Take an inventory of the tools you have, and determine how much work you can do yourself. You can spend 10% or more of the cost of the car on tools if you don't have a really well equipped shop.

If you can weld and paint, you're ahead of the game. But if you have to farm out painting, exhaust, etc., your price will go up rapidly. Painting is especially expensive.

Do you have enough room to work, and enough space to store all the parts? If it's tight, think about organizing things so all your "stuff" doesn't get beat up or lost. If not . . . can I use your garage? :LOL:

Mock-up is critical. Make sure you build up the entire car (less wiring, paint and upholstery) to make sure everything fits, then tear it all back down before paint, etc.

Think about buying Tex Smith's book on How to Build a Basic Hot Rod, and do a LOT of thinking and planning before you turn the first wrench.

Never built either one ... of those,
But I like a 3W with a windshield frame. Not the typical glass body glue in windshield.

http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1935418820.jpg

To me, the coupe with the chrome windshield frame looks more 1932 than the glass 32 sitting next to it with a glue in windshield.
( disclaimer ... the one on the left is my 3W ) :D

http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1772829672.jpg

It is real easy ( and common ) to have 10, 15 or 20 thousand dollars in a pretty chassis. Parts and pieces add up quickly. A decent radiator is over 5 hundred ... more with A/C ... Wheels and tires cost money. A 700R4 automatic can easily cost a grand or more.

I believe I would buy a chassis and then built it ... to suit your taste and pocket book. Then buy a body. Just my nickel ... :)

Mike,
You have been given some great advise by guy's that have been threw this. I hope you aren't discouraged by there advise. The rewards are tremendously rewarding.
My advise is take your time really think things threw, mistakes are costly, don't worry about redundant questions, you are with a very special group of people on this site.
Ken

Mike,
You and I are at about the same spot - never a ground up build, always wanted to do it and wondering which way to go. I picked up the Sept issue of Street Rod Builder and they have two articles that are relevant - one on a low budget build of a '34 3 window, and another on a sweet '36 where the guy bought a buddy's car built in the 70's and used that as his platform. On the ground up build they are using a N&N Roller, and their budget is set at $35k - an eye opener for me, and on target with what the guys hear are telling you (and by coincidence, me) - plan on lots more time and money than the cost of the roller.
I am torn right now between the N&N Roller and buying an existing car in the area - think the already built car is the smart way to go, but concerned that whereever I go it's always, "OK, you bought Joe's car.", or "You have really changed Joe's car - liked it better before...." From what I have heard unless you go out of the area to buy the original builder's ID is firmly engrained in people's minds, which makes the ground up build attractive (for me). If you build start a scrapbook to record your source for everything from the roller with factory certificate of origin to receipts and notes for every component that might be thought to be stolen parts. Get references to salvage title numbers on any used parts from wrecking yards, like engine & tranny. Your state may be more lenient, but many (KS seems to be one of the worst) are getting really tough to register a new build, and then it is a 2008 Home Built, not a 1932 Ford.
Good luck in your decision process. If you decide to build take lots of pictures as you go and keep us in the loop!
Roger

Gonna run fenders?
You can save alot by losing the fenders. Also know ahead of time exhaust layout. Chassis builders will change a bracket or move it to accomodate, exhaust, brakes(power), headlamp mounts, transmission choices, etc. You can get some good deals such as lower cost plating and additional components by negotiating will the chassis builder. Buy in bulk to save, right? Oh and if you decide to pinch the frame keep in mine it will give you some trouble with the transmission hump just an FYI
Good luck

Have built 5 N&N bodied cars in the last year and 1/2
Duane and Don build Great stuff.
If your a first time builder--- Double the time ya think ya can do it in
And also double the $$$$ U expect to spend.
Buy a finished car and enjoy it.
Or have 1 built to your specs.
As a builder, I can tell ya it's a little more to have 1 built, but you'll get what ya want a lot quicker.
Remember this-- We as builders get anywhere from 20 to 40% off on our parts and materials. So if you spend 35K on parts and materials it's only gonna cost a builder 25-28 grand.
Have built and sold 16 32's in the past 4 years and have many satisfied customers.

http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/da.../IMG_1005a.JPG

http://www.wescottsauto.com/body-pho...pe-chop-00.jpg

There are 32 3W fiberglass bodys that use a windshield frame ...

There are numerous threads on the internet about building a " new " 32 coupe. Some with absolutely not the first original 32 Ford part on them. A lot of the folks who frequent here also visit other sites and the information is fairly easy to find and figure out ... for you own project. Just sort of pick and choose. Google search turns up this thread elsewhere. Some of the same Deuce folks here have make contributions to the thread.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/deuc...rs-134313.html

I like the looks of the glued in windshield better..... Don't need all that extra trim and stuff on a car, I like smooth and slick, no trim or chrome... Guess that would make it on non-deuce, huh??? Oh well, never did go in for the purist stuff on cars anyhow.....

A lot of deuces, A's, T's, Cobra's and what have you are build without any of the original parts.... They are no more or less a hot rod then a "real" '32, whatever that is....

A complete car, even starting with a body and roller package can easily be quite overwhelming for the first time builder.... I'd suggest starting with a "done" car that needs a bit of rebuilding or freshening as a first project.... Seen way too many first timers just give up on projects for a variety of reasons, and sell them for pennies on the dollar.....

I really appreciate the feedback from all of you. Just a little background on myself, I’ve been involved with cars since the late ‘60s. I started out on the drag strip, building and racing Hemi and 440 6-pak Mopars for many years. After starting a family, I took a break, and then in the ‘90s, I started back on 2 wheels with Harleys. I have a Springer that has been an ongoing project for over 8 years (yes, I do have lots of patience). I work on a lot of friend’s bikes doing everything from routine maintenance, high performance engine work, custom work. I have a well equipped garage with plenty of tools even though I will have to acquire a few more specifically for this project. My son is a welder by profession, his work has to be x-rayed and certified before it’s acceptable. This kid can lay a beautiful bead with a TIG or MIG on anything from aluminum to stainless steel, I’m very lucky here!! I have had an interest in street rods since an early age, but other things like drag racing were more interesting at the time. I grew up in Chattanooga, TN and I used to go to the rod runs in Pigeon Forge, TN every year when it was known as ‘The Grand Run’. This was back in the days when the Grand Run would be on a weekend right around Labor Day and the Shades of the Past split from the Grand Run and started having their own run on the following weekend. I also attended numerous NRSA Nats at Chilhowie Park in Knoxville. We've attended the NSRA Nats in Tampa many times since moving here 8 years ago in addition to many local events. This year we have plans to attend the Turkey Run in Daytona for the first time.

Bob and Henry, thanks. Even though this will be my first attempt at a project of this magnitude, I have been doing my homework and trying to get prepared, that’s one of the reasons I became a member here and a few other sites. I have saved on my computer many build projects on ‘32s, including Ken’s and Deuce’s to name just a couple (Deuce, the chambered exhaust on your car reminds me of the exhaust on the ’69 Camaro Z-28/RS I had when I was a young man). I have also picked up seveal books as suggested like Tex Smith's, Dennis Parks and Ron Mangus for interior ideas. I prefer to build my first rod rather than buy a ‘runner’ that I know little about the construction/workmanship. Instead of changing someone else’s ideas of a good car, I prefer to build it with the ideas and visions that I already have (with the help from all of you). I know good planning is the key to any successful project, everything needs a solid foundation and I haven’t set a time frame on a completion date. I’m planning on this being a multi-year project, whatever it takes to finish properly (I spent over 1½ years just planning and building a front fender for the Springer motorcycle). As far as the budget goes, trust me on this one, it couldn’t be any worse than what I have invested in the Springer. It almost makes me sick to think that I could have a killer ’32 Coupe for the money I’ve put into that bike.

Roger, I read the same article in Street Rod Builder magazine. It was the same day I talked to Duane at N&N. I told him that I would be following the article in the coming months to see how they build it and see how well they stick to their budget. He pointed out that there were several mistakes in the write-up, specifically the mention that the billet front hubs were part of their standard chassis package. I already keep a scrapbook on every vehicle I own, I’ve done this for many years. I use a 3-ring binder to put everything regarding my bikes and daily drivers, every receipt, every installation instruction for accessories, etc. I keep photos of build projects on USB thumb drives. When I do major projects for friend’s bikes, I take pics along the way and burn them to a CD disc for the friend.

Geronimo, you touched on something about the fenders that I’m having a hard time deciding. I really like the look of a full fendered car but thought about doing a highboy as my first project. Then I talked to a local guy with a highboy and he mentioned the water spray from the tires on rainy days and we get a lot of rainy days here in the Tampa Bay area from June until Oct-Nov. I also mentioned this to Duane at N&N regarding doing a highboy first, then possibly adding the fenders at a later time. As he mentioned, it just takes careful planning in the building stages.

Don, I’ve seen your work and cars on Big Al’s site, great looking cars. Only as a last resort would I “Buy a finished car and enjoy it or have one build to your specs”. Part of the enjoyment is the building process for me, many times I would rather build a bike than ride it. I understand what you say about the builders getting a discount on parts. That’s going to be a hard pill to swallow for me as I get the same type discounts on bike parts. I go to Daytona Bike Week and Biketoberfest every year just to meet and greet vendors that I do business with. I spend a lot of time researching parts sources and good prices for motorcycle parts, now it going to shift to street rod parts, any suggestions would be helpful and greatly appreciated!!!

Dave, I agree with you, I like the windshield without the chrome trim, just a personal preference, sorry Deuce, no offence.

Please keep the ideas and suggestions coming, I can use all the help I can get.

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike52

1) I grew up in Chattanooga, TN and I used to go to the rod runs in Pigeon Forge, TN every year when it was known as ‘The Grand Run’. This was back in the days when the Grand Run would be on a weekend right around Labor Day and the Shades of the Past split from the Grand Run and started having their own run on the following weekend.

2) Dave, I agree with you, I like the windshield without the chrome trim, just a personal preference, sorry Deuce, no offence.

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1) ... The Shades of the Past held their FIRST run at the Grand Motel. When the motel and a few " others " tried to take the run over and run it themselves ... the Shades moved the location ... but kept the first weekend after Labor Day and their event. The Grand Run ( held on the grounds of the Grand Motel ) is the week after the Shades and for a long time ... it was not really a street rod run but more of a car show ... as they allowed lots of 50', 60's and even 70's vehicles to register. Yes ... I have been to every Shades of the Past event ... including the first one :) Until recently, the Shades of the Past only allowed pre 49 ... since they opened their event up ... total registration is slowly dropping. Vehicles just stay up on the main Parkway ...

2) No offense taken. :D
It is just ones own taste. That preferrence makes it good for you ... that the less expensive 32 fiberglass bodies ... come with glued in windshields.

I also had a 69 RS Z28 ... with chambered exhaust ...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...er/chev083.jpg

With your background ... you should be OK ... and end up with a car you can be proud of.

Mike, your background message includes many of the same sentiments I feel, and pushes me more towards building rather than buying. I don't have the bike/build experience but do have a barn w/concrete floor, a good welder, a pretty good range of tools and no hard end date for having to be done. Thanks for starting the thread, and to those taking time to offer advice.

Well, sounds like both of you are ready for all the fun of a build! Do your shopping carefully. There are a ton of shops selling deuce frames and bodies, some good and some not so good. I would suggest making quality a higher priority in your shopping then price.... Building a Hot Rod is just like building anything else, quality compononents make for a quality finished product..... Other thing I would suggest is don't be afraid to pursue your own ideas on the build.... There's a gazillion deuces out there and to have a car that will stand out from the rest takes some engineering and a lot of thought and planning, trial and error.... IMO the 3 things that will separate your car from "all the others" is fit, finish, and detail, go for the best you can even if it does take a bit longer to achieve!!!
\
Oh yeah, and have fun while you're building it!!!

Just got a 32 running. I have kept up with most every dime and it does cost as much to build as buy. My son is 16 and we started 3 years ago and got the car running just before the Nats less interior and paint. We made it to the Nats!

Why did I do it and why would I do it again? When I was 16 my dad brought home a 37 Ford sedan that did not run. We literally changed the engine and brakes under a shade tree. I have never forgotten that experience. My son had it much better with a full basement, quiet a few tools, and always cool. I wanted him to experience working on and building a car. The frustrations, the patience required, and also the rewards. When we started he did not know a 3/8 dirve from a cresent wrench, but he does now.

The day we took that car out of the drive with no windshield and he drove it for the first time, I hope I can always remember the ear to ear grin and the expression on my son's face.

It is his car and he personalized a lot of things and it does not fit the mold of most of what I see at the meets. Who cares we like it and that is all that makes and difference. He will be driving it to school as soon as we get the bugs out that we found going the Nats. I hope to make a post soon with build pics and just my rating of some vendors.

He put a shruken head on the mirror with a sign attached "The last person that called this a kit car". I know we all have it easier than the old days but the word kit gives me this mental picture of something that is all inclusive and you just slap it together in a few weekends. "BOLT ON" yeah right!

We used a BeBops roller purchased at Shades of the Past and were quiet satisfied.

One thing I learned is to make major buys at major NSRA or Goodguys meets. The Nats are great because of number of vendors. You can go from vendor to vendor and negotiage the best price and just shop for the best price on small items.

I used a N&N body and frame.... I looked at all of them and if they were not the best they are damn close and for the money you can not go wrong.
I have pictures of the complete build if it helps and I also kept every receipt and hours.
Hours in this car is 1810 hours and the cost was $52385.86 We did everything in house but paint ( $13K) it is fun to do but it is a ton of work more money than you would expect and you always need more tools.
This was 2.5 years ago so things might have went up
The good news is ( for one lucky person ) is I am selling this car for $45k if you want a turn key car you can contact me at jim.stafford@exel.com
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n/DSC01768.jpg

Mike. It would be great if your son could build your chassis for you. I'm sure the car would mean much more to you and him also. It would add consider- able time to the build though. A full fendered car comes with an added cost in money and time. I chose to build a full fendered car and found that this required much more time in locating the front and rear suspension so that the wheel/tire would sit in the fender opening correctly for the right look. The body placement is very critical. "Deuce" gave a detailed sequence to do this correctly in a previous post. I think all this extra work is worth it though. I just like the full fendered look. Good luck with your build and I'm sure you will enjoy the project.

I remember a guy with the same name who didn't like spiders and snakes :LOL: .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

I remember a guy with the same name who didn't like spiders and snakes :LOL: .

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That is not me.....but I dont like them either:D

iceburgh, I also have your project photos saved for future reference, lots of good info there to look at. You've got a great looking Deuce and the mini-Deuce is soooo cool too. In fact, I'd like to see more pics of the mini project if you have any. I've also seen your car for sale, good luck with the sale!! I decided early on that my car will be painted two-tone, I have several color combos that I'm considering, just haven't finalized it yet.

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iceburgh

I used a N&N body and frame....
I have pictures of the complete build if it helps and I also kept every receipt and hours.
Hours in this car is 1810 hours and the cost was $52385.86 .

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Jim ...
How high did it get on eBay ... I think it was at 30 grand last I saw ... and it could not be built for that ... :o
____________________________________________

Mike52
If I wanted a fendered car ... I would build a fendered car. Never settle for something else. You will never be happy with a car you built to suit your friends or someone else. BUILD the coupe you want.

Most rodders use a 46 inch wide ( kingpin to kingpin ) axle under fenderd 32's ... but I used a 48 inch on my 32 roadster. You just have to be careful in the rim selection and backspace. Most rodders want a 56 inch wide rear end ... but I used a 58 inch rear ( wheel mounting flange to wheel mounting flange ) . Again, you have to pay attention to rim selection and back spacing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/MVC-012F.jpg

Building a 32 without fenders and bumpers is considerably less expensive. Running boards are $500 a set ... the same for a pair of bumpers. Add in bumper braces, fender braces, frame horn covers and a splash apron and you can easily have a extra 2 grand not counting the 4 fenders. :o

There is a photo site with well over 750 photo images of 1932 Ford 3W coupes. Chopped/not chopped, Fendered and not fendered. I suggest you go there and look at all the different styles and builds and decide which style suits you the most.

http://www.carnut.com/photo/list/flist.html

The difference in this coupe ...

http://www.carnut.com/show/03/pbo/nat0987.jpg

and this coupe ... is easily 3 to 5 grand in construction costs ( not counting paint ) ...

http://www.carnut.com/show/05/spf/nat2044.jpg

Both styles have their own fans and supporters. Just figure out what you want before you get started ... because changing your mind after the car is half done ... just adds to the cost and you can end up with a " confused " looking ride.

Deuce ...

"If I wanted a fendered car ... I would build a fendered car. Never settle for something else. You will never be happy with a car you built to suit your friends or someone else. BUILD the coupe you want."

Deuce, that's almost the same words my wife said to me. Thanks for the link to CarNut.

OK, more questions. What's the Pros & Cons of straight front axles vs IFS? At this point I'm leaning toward IFS. I know on a straight axle the caster is set by the proper placement of the front crossmember, but how is the camber adjusted? On my father's Peterbuilt and Kenworths the front axles had to be bent if I'm not mistaken, is this the case with the rods?

Thanks,
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike52

OK, more questions. What's the Pros & Cons of straight front axles vs IFS? At this point I'm leaning toward IFS. I know on a straight axle the caster is set by the proper placement of the front crossmember, but how is the camber adjusted? On my father's Peterbuilt and Kenworths the front axles had to be bent if I'm not mistaken, is this the case with the rods?

Thanks,
Mike

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Yes ... you bend them ... but I have a chrome plated axle under my roadster and my 3W ... and neither one of them needed any bending. They were right ... from the factory.

http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1431429641.jpg

IFS vs. Straight axles has been debated for a long time. It is mainly a choice or taste issue. I think they are ugly as POO with a IFS ... ( just me ... my taste ;) ). I drove my 32 Roadster 521 miles on the Saturday before Memorial Day and drove it over 500 miles home from Louisville and I was not tired. My straight axle drives as good or better than any of the IFS 32's I have driven. ( I may be biased ) :eek:

http://i2.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/05/ee/9a1b_3.JPG

If you know anything about front suspensions ... you know that the upper A arm should be parallel to the lower A arm ... or camber is all over the place when the suspension moves.

http://i13.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/06/21/c80c_1.JPG

The front fenders on a do not allow the upper A arm to be placed at the proper place for the A arms to be parallel. So they really limit the travel with a coil over shock ... and the ride suffers IMHO.

A few years ago I owned two 1940 Ford coupes. Both with SBC power. We built one for my brother and he wanted a IFS ... I had a straight axle under mine. I ended up with his 40 ... ( divorce for him and his wife :( ) ... so I had two. I sold the IFS one ... and kept the straight axle one. His had a Fatman IFS Mustang II under it and even he said mine rode better.

It also depends on the STYLE of 32 ... you want. If you are building a more traditional style ( like mine ) ... a IFS ... looks way out of place IMHO. If you are building a newer look, slick ... mutli colored coupe with everything smoothed off and big rims and O ring tires ... the IFS is more in step with the style of the build.

You would expect to see a IFS on a build like this ...

http://www.carnut.com/show/05/pbo/nat1344.jpg

But not on this ...

http://www.carnut.com/show/04/deuce/deu058.jpg

It only went to $32...... no way I will let it go for that. Bad part is I am buidling a 53 Chevy truck and once it is built the 32 just wont get driven much. I would like to sell but the way the economy is I guess people are hanging on to the $$$ just a bit tighter

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iceburgh

It only went to $32...... no way I will let it go for that.

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Unfortunately ... the eBay market and other sales avenues have a large supply of reproduction32 3W coupes for sale. I think there are 4 or 5 on eBay currently. I bet I saw 20 or more for sale @ Louisville a few weeks back. No way the average rodder can build a decent reproduction 32 3W for the price they are bringing.

http://www.good-guys.com/images/merc...Tees/NN_08.jpg

The BLACK 32 3W on the T-shirt was owned by a friend of mine and he sold it recently for over 125 grand ... but he lost $$$ at that price. Very few guys could sell their 32's right now and break even or make money. I could on my 32 Roadster, because I have owned it for so long ( 30 years ) and do not have a ton of money in it. I am upside down $$$ wise in my 32 3W ... but that's OK :D cause I do not plan on selling it either. It can stay with the roadster until I die and then the wife can do with as she pleases.

GOOD LUCK with the sale of your coupe ... :)

Actually their are more than 10 ...
But here are 10 32 3W's on eBay ... Not counting the repo 5W coupes and roadsters.

http://i10.ebayimg.com/08/i/001/03/5d/b499_3.JPG 35 grand BUY IT NOW

http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/03/b9/249b_12.JPG

http://i20.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/04/f4/6616_1.JPG 39 grand BUY IT NOW

http://i15.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/05/44/82c6_3.JPG 65 grand Buy it now They are dreaming IMHO ... @ 65 grand

http://i18.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/05/6e/243e_1.JPG

http://i18.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/05/88/37fa_1.JPG 29 grand Buy it now

http://i13.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/05/aa/c29d_1.JPG

http://i17.ebayimg.com/08/i/001/05/e9/2084_1.JPG

http://i22.ebayimg.com/08/i/001/05/e8/24e6_1.JPG

http://i12.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/01/9d/7569_12.JPG40 grand Buy it now

Tough market to sell in ... when basically they are are the same car with a little different twist or a different color. Some are detailed a little better ... but NONE will bring what has been spent on them ...

SAD ...

.....and people just keep on building deuces.... Go figure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

.....and people just keep on building deuces....
Go figure.

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Folks keep buying lottery tickets too ...

I think that the fiberglass Deuce deal is a lot
like the new Harley rider deal. Lot of newbies wanted in
so they bought Harleys ... the new wore off ...
and now the Harley market is full of low mileage
barely ridden Harleys ;) same goes for a lot of the 3W coupe
owners who bought/built fiberglass cars in the past 5 years.

This 76 year old 1932 3W just sold ... for 80 grand on eBay ...

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/PICT0023.jpg

It sat next to this 1932 3W for almost 50 years.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...PICT0009-1.jpg

They have turned down MORE than 80 grand for the more original one ...
which does not have a engine.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/PICT0093.jpg

But they are not making any more of the 76 year ones. A vast majority of the repro 32's for sale
on eBay and the other internet sites ... do not look like a 32 Ford to most folks. No cowl vents,
filled roofs, no door handles or door hinges ... glued in windshield and back windows that are not even close
to the shape Henry made them. Most do not even have the cutout in the lower rear panel for the fuel neck.

If you want a fiberglass 3W ... the supply is only limited by the amount of resin and chemicals you can buy.

Simple economics ... of supply and demand
The supply has far exceeded the demand ... on the fiberglass ones

I am GLAD ... they make 32 3W coupes in fiberglass :D
Because if they did not ... the 76 year old ones would be
even HIGHER and only the real the affluent could afford one. :o

I built my deuce for me, not for resale. I plan to keep it as long as I can drive so I built it the way I always wanted to build one--a very nice driver, no trailer queen--and I am pleased with the result. I did the majority of the work myself except for the short block, paint application and some of the interior (I don't sew but I can glue!). And I did it for the satisfaction of creating my personal vision of the ideal '32 3-window. Every car is a statement of the owner's taste, and I respect that a lot. But I could never buy a built car because I would always want to change it so it conformed to my own tastes. Call me picky . . . LOL!

[QUOTE=Deuce]

Ya know what??? I could almost take all that to mean your one of them there steel is real snobbery guys......:eek: :eek: :eek: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: I've had steel one's and had glass one's.... They all lost their interest to me when they become soooooooo dang common everywhere ya go.... Takes a really outstanding deuce to even catch my interest now, something like Ken Thurm's that show's such superb worksmanship, quality, and originality. Guess I'm just suffering from deuce (original and 'glass) burnout......... Just so many other years, models, and makes that present themselves as a car that just needs hot roddin'!!!!

[QUOTE=Dave Severson]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deuce

Ya know what??? I could almost take all that to mean your one of them
there steel is real snobbery guys......:eek: :eek: :LOL: :LOL: !!!!

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I did not mean it to sound that way ...
BUT ... the fact of the matter is ... fiberglass cars are very plentiful ...
and the supply has redimished the demand.

Rumrumm 's coupe ... is a nice coupe. He is not worried about the resale value ... cause it is not for sale.
He built it for his own pleasure and enjoyment.
I am the same way with my 3W ... building it to suit me ... not anyone else
and I am WAY UPSIDE down moneywise ... and do not care :rolleyes:
It is not for sale ...

New folks to the 32 world see eBay auctions like this one ...

http://i10.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/05/ca/b25b_1.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1932-...QQcmdZViewItem

Where you can get this for 7 grand and think they can be riding in a car like the one Icebergh has for another 10 grand
or so ( we know that is not possible :HMMM: ) so the finished cars do not bring the money ... spent on them.
Especially true of " rodder built " cars ... where the home rod builder did not cut any corners
( new engine/transmission ect ) and did not get a wholesale break of 20 to 40 per cent on the parts used.


Icebergh has tired of his coupe ... and wants something else ... :D
Sadly ... if he spends the same kind of money on a 47 to 53 Chevy pickup
He will be right back where he is now ... with a nice ride, plenty of money
spent ... and not enough demand to buy it ... because the supply
of those trucks exceeds demand. :eek:

Supply and Demand ... simple

[QUOTE=Deuce]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I did not mean it to sound that way ...
BUT ... the fact of the matter is ... fiberglass cars are very plentiful ...
and the supply has redimished the demand.

Rumrumm 's coupe ... is a nice coupe. He is not worried about the resale value ... cause it is not for sale.
He built it for his own pleasure and enjoyment.
I am the same way with my 3W ... building it to suit me ... not anyone else
and I am WAY UPSIDE down moneywise ... and do not care :rolleyes:
It is not for sale ...

New folks to the 32 world see eBay auctions like this one ...

http://i10.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/05/ca/b25b_1.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1932-...QQcmdZViewItem

Where you can get this for 7 grand and think they can be riding in a car like the one Icebergh has for another 10 grand
or so ( we know that is not possible :HMMM: ) so the finished cars do not bring the money ... spent on them.
Especially true of " rodder built " cars ... where the home rod builder did not cut any corners
( new engine/transmission ect ) and did not get a wholesale break of 20 to 40 per cent on the parts used.


Icebergh has tired of his coupe ... and wants something else ... :D
Sadly ... if he spends the same kind of money on a 47 to 53 Chevy pickup
He will be right back where he is now ... with a nice ride, plenty of money
spent ... and not enough demand to buy it ... because the supply
of those trucks exceeds demand. :eek:

Supply and Demand ... simple

---

I am in good shape with the truck. Bought it for $2000 with a trans-am. Striped the parts off of the TA I needed ( clip colum, pedals, rear motor and tranny had to rebuild them)and sold the rest for $250.
Interior was left over from my '32 seats ( free) came from a caddy out of a scrap yard. Paint wire and rad were free. A/C and guages were 40% off
So I had to buy a new tailgate , glass ,one running board and wheels/tires at full price.
Right now I am in to it for about 11K and it should be done in the next few weeks if I get on the ball.
Maybe by Reinbeck if not then Pocono

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...uck/?start=all

Not really tired of the coupe but need the room. Like I said even if I dont drive it often it cost less than $300 a year to keep. So I still think it was a good investment due to the fact I like it and I built it my way.
I agree with what you say about supply and demand but also dont forget there will always be people that want these type of cars and trucks that dont have the time or skill to build them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iceburgh

Not really tired of the coupe but need the room.

I agree with what you say about supply and demand but also dont forget there will always be people that want these type of cars and trucks that dont have the time or skill to build them.

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If you need garage room ... I can understand it ... if you mean more room in a vehicle to carry people ... SORRY ... the truck is not going to help much. :D

I agree that there are always folks who have neither the time or the skills to build one ... but MOST of them do not have the money to buy one either. :(

Most potential buyers have no concept of the money and time to build a car similar to the one you built. Plus ... the more personalized a ride is ... the harder it is for a buyer to be found.

I get tired of mine and sell them all the time.....but not at a loss, either. My point is with a deuce, the market is loaded and more then likely stacked against you.... No matter what you're selling, there's a bunch more just like it (or nearly so) for sale. Maybe your's is different, and somehow unique in certain ways, but the average buyer doesn't see that. He sees the car itself and all the others that are similar and goes bargain hunting....

One offs and one of a kind don't suffer from this problem, they have the problem of a limited market and having to wait to find the just right buyer.... I fit in this catagory, I set my price based on what I have in it and what I honestly feel the market will bare..... Then sit on it at my price till the right buyer comes along.... IMO it's a whole lot better way to sell then to enter the market with a car that has a ton of others just like it and having to play the price war game.....

I don't mean this to sound like a put down on deuces, just some of the things I've learned from buying and selling cars and parts in the Hot Rod market for the last 40 years..... The only advice I would offer is be unique and be yourself in what you build. A copy cat car is just that, a copy cat. Be honest with yourself and build what you want just the way you want it, but at the same time keep an eye on where you are at money wise... Very few people build one car and keep it forever.... Keep in mind that someday you'll want to build something else, and because of a variety of reasons this car will have to find a new home.....

Guys, first of all, I want to thank all of you for your insight and information and I do truly appreciate it, but my intention with this thread was not a debate over the ‘flooded market of Deuces’ or the value of my car down the road if I ever decided to sell it (at my age, not likely to happen, the wife will have that concern), not the value of a steel or fiberglass body (I already mentioned in my original post that a steel body was out of my budget), and certainly not the ‘dime a dozen’ attitude about building a Deuce Coupe.

I’m not trying to be brash or disrespectful at all, please do not take it that way. I started this thread to gather information for a project that I’ve always wanted to do, a Deuce Coupe. The thread was intended to found out the quality of the samples given and to find out other possible choices to get me headed in the right direction for a safe, reliable, fun car project.

My main concerns are finding reputable companies that sell quality products. I’m not looking for the cheapest products out there, I won’t buy a body/frame package from someone on eBay building these things in Grandpa’s barn. I was looking for solid information from the seasoned, everyday guys like you who have done this work before and could/would steer a new guy along the path.

Can we please get back on track?

Thanks,
Mike

No problem Mike. Most of the threads on here get sidetracked.... Not being a real formal site like some who do the "don't post it in this section" crap, most threads take on a general discussion as it pertains to others and not just the original poster.

As to a deuce, I've seen a couple of the N&N cars, first rate glass. I've also done a couple deuces using bodies from Redneck, another good one... IMO still the best in glass work is Wescott's... But you do pay extra, but you get a lot of extras including IMO the best steel reinforcement package made...

As to a frame, I always did my own using American Stamping rails...Undoubtedly the best rails I've seen this side of Henry's own....

Another thing to look for in a frame builder is, as someone mentioned earlier, a builder who is willing to make little mods and tweaks in the frame to suit your particular needs, and not just a "one size fits all" frame....

The big thing no matter who you use as a supplier, do your research first and have a written plan on the components you plan on using... Also, check around some of the local clubs and see who they use, heck, maybe there's a shop near by that can build you a chassis exactly to your specs...don't write off the small shops, I've been one for the last 40 years... The big advantage is that you have someone who will work with you and be able to answer a lot of your questions and concerns....

Main thing is, just like any kind of project, Proper Preparation and Planning Prevents Poor Performance.... Plan you work, work your plan....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

My point is with a deuce, the market is loaded and more then likely stacked against you.... No matter what you're selling, there's a bunch more just like it (or nearly so) for sale.

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike52

Can we please get back on track?

Thanks,
Mike

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I believe we are on track :D
The process of finding the right parts and pieces cannot be separated from their assembled overall value IMHO. Seeing what repro bodies and pieces bring the better money at sale time ... is to me a clear indicator of their reputation and the quality built in them. Dave Severson and I both are on the same page ... just different places on the page. We both believe building a repro fiberglass Deuce can be a costly experience than if one is not careful ... can be a very expensive lesson in economics 101.

Like the Street Beast thread on going on the net elsewhere ... http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/stre...its-13109.html

A informed buyer is a lot better off ... when he is getting ready to spend his money and make the 1 to 3 year committment to build a car.

I am NOT trying to get to to NOT build a car ... nor am I trying to get you to build a steel car :eek: ... I just want to go into this with your eyes wide open. :3dSMILE:

Dave, thanks!! I know all to well how threads can get sidetracked quickly. I'm a site manager (among several others) of one of the largest Harley sites on the net, we are mainly a technical site and debates happen often. We try to hold a tight rein to keep it on the technical side but loose enough for everyone to enjoy themselves.

Thanks for the words of wisdom and for getting back on track!!

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike52

My main concerns are finding reputable companies that sell quality products.

Thanks,
Mike

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Get out your checkbook ... then ...

1) buy a Wescott 32 3W body
2) buy a So-Cal frame or TCI chassis stage III
3) buy a new crate engine and transmission.
4) buy a Walker radiator
5) buy a Vintage Air Generation II mini air unit
6) Buy a Tea's seat
7) buy a wiring kit from Ron Francis

The above are some of the best known suppliers in the street rod world ... and have been so for a good while. They have earned a good reputation by selling quality parts.

A informed buyer is a lot better off ... when he is getting ready to spend his money and make the 1 to 3 year committment to build a car.

Deuce, your comment is exactly the reason I came to this site, to become better informed and learn from the guys that have 'been there and done that', and have the t-shirt to prove it.....lol

I may be a newbie to the street rod building world, but I'm not a rookie at building things. I have a background in muscle cars, drag cars and for the past 10 years, motorcycles (the bikes that are ridden, not trailer queens).

I'm also not looking for someone else’s recipe for what they think is the way to go, I'm looking for ideas and suggestions, I also don’t need the top of the line, must have the best, most expensive piece there is, I shop for quality, not costly. I'd also like to hear about parts, shops, businesses to avoid, I don't want the costly mistakes either. I have a certain budget to work within, but I don't have a certain time frame to have it completed, I have lots of patience (reread my background message).

Thanks for your help,
Mike