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If you look CLOSELY the 1932 3W sits a little higher than the 1932 roadster ...Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
They both have the same spring, same axle ... same tires ... everything is the exact same .... EXCEPT ... the 3W has almost no miles on it ... so it has not yet settled down any.
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...2316221550.jpg
The roadster settled down about 3/4 of a inch after 500 / 600 miles. It now has 52 thousand miles.
Good grief - bolts of lightning are coming out of the sky.:whacked:
- I built the chassis per the TCI build sheet !
- This isn't my first car ! I'm not a newbie - honest!! (tho it's the first from this many bits and pieces)
- I feel like I'm in trouble with that piece of tin
- I'm gonna try to raise it a bit. If I can't, then the splash shield will become history - one way or another !
- I do have an oil pan souvenir from an earlier car that weeps oil from a speed bump scrape - so am all to well aware of ride height
- I did take my fancy deep trans pan off BEFORE it became aluminum scrap - it was even lower.
You guys are mean !!!!:eek::LOL:
For what it's worth...I had a 40 Ford coupe before my current 39 coupe and i was running a superbell 4" axle with reverse eye spring. At completion, it measured 3.90 at the bottom of the grill pan. After about 500 miles it was at 3.78. I was always careful wherever i went and even had to come in on some parking lots at an angle. I was fine on the highway. I sacrificed a little height for a look i wanted to achieve. My 39 will be the same way. But I am thinking about shockwaves, to adjust height for practicality.
OK guys - made some major adjustments.
There are some advantages to coil over suspensions. I cranked the adjusting sleeve up about 3/8+/- inch and now am sitting at approximately 5.25" where it was about 3.875. I'm surprised that so little makes so much of a difference in ride height. The actual ride may have suffered (or maybe even gotten better) but time will tell. The hardest part - I went the wrong way first and ended up at 3":eek::LOL::LOL: Obviously I forgot to turn my brain on before I grabbed the spanner wrench.
Now - I have to center the rear wheels in the fender opening, but I was aware that would be needed. I never moved the adjusters when I blew it apart for paint, but for some reason the drive shaft output yoke was too far out - my guess is that I mixed the 2 sides (yes, you're right, they should be the same, but there were other dimensional mistakes by TCI)
Dave--I'm glad that you found a simple fix. I was going to pull your chain a little bit and tell you that if you had went with an "Old School" I-beam and transverse spring like I have, you could simply put a 1" spacer in between the top of the spring pack and the underside of the crossmember to gain an inch of ground clearance.---(And yes, I had to do that!!) I'm happy that your "fix" didn't involve having to change or refabricate anything.---Brian
Brian - if I had the I beam frt suspension, there would have been no reason for this thread - and no reason for you folks to "pick" on me. My last car needed an extra spacer or two (but of course, it also needed new u-bolts)Quote:
Originally Posted by brianrupnow
Well I thought I was being reasonable with a 5" drop I beam but with P185/70R14 tires on 14" wheels on the front I get 5 1/2" clearance for the Bebops 'glass pan between the frame horns BUT (!) I just tried to wedge a 2"x4" the wide way under the I-beam and could not do it! I would estimate the clearance of the axle is only 3 1/4" so it doesn't matter about the clearance on the pan since the axle will hit first. I am not too happy about this but at the moment I just want to finish the wiring and get the car running. The only good thing about this arrangement is that the axle is lower than the engine pan and the enlarged DeRalle pan on the transmission. I could get a little more clearance with 15" front wheels but probably only about 1/2" at best. The problem then becomes clearance under the fender with those aftermarket braces. In this case a spacer would raise the frame and body but the axle would still be the lowest point of the front end. If I did it again I would use a 4" dropped axle and maybe that is another answer. Compared to new 15" wheels and tires the price of an axle is about the same except the labor for the replacement is quite a bit of work. I am now looking at the road a lot more and the good news is that with care and keeping the front tires inflated, I think I can run what I have until I happen upon an unfortunate bump in the road.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don, great to see you posting. I was wondering what happened to you. :D
Don - where have you been?? I was going to give you a call to see if you were ok - (yes, you are listed) - or send my wife to run you down while she is in Midlothian this weekend.
If it's that I beam axle, I wouldn't worry. You can use it to grade highways.
Mine - I'm now at 5.75+ after a couple more turns on the adjusters. That's still the lowest point, but not as critical any more. Another plus - the front tires look better in the fender now.
Tech1, I am still here, often reading more than posting. I got a big boost in confidence recently with the purchase of a "two-heat" soldering gun from Radio Shack. Now I can tin a multistrand wire, insert it into a fastener, crimp it real good and then sweat solder into the crimped joint with the second heat level on the trigger of the soldering gun. Even so I only sneak in a few hours soldering when the garage warms up in the afternoon with night temps still in the mid 30s F range. Amazingly if you hold in the trigger on the Radio Shack gun the tip gets RED hot! I wonder what that is doing to my electricity bill? Anyway, I think I can do the wiring now and just get it over with. After reading your list of all the ways a flat tappet cam can fail I think I will install my set of 1.5 roller tip rockers initially and use the opportunity to pour fresh lub in the lifter bores. I recall when I installed the lifters there was one that was pretty tight so it will be a good idea to set the valves again with the 1.5 roller rockers and take the opportunity to drip in some extra lube and put some Marvel's Magic oil in each plug hole since the engine has now been setting for about two years.
IC2, thanks for the comment about the strength of the I-beam. When I started out putting the car together I was operating on memories of Hot Rod articles from 1953! I always wanted a dropped axle and a chopped top but now I have to deal with the details. For instance I have not cut my wiper blade yet but boy is it going to be assymmetric! In addition I went with the "how low can you go" idea but backed off an inch to a 5" drop. I have actually measured the height of quite a few speed bumps in local mall driveways and I think I can get over all the local bumps with care but if I travel to a new region I will have to be careful. I will start looking into 15" wheels for the front eventually and thanks to this thread I realize that if there is a problem with tires rubbing on fender braces the simple fix is to insert a 1/4" steel plate with a bolt hole under the spring mount and that might raise the body 3/4" with the 15" wheels and the wheel centers 1/2", but first let's get the wiring done and fire up the engine!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Vintique makes a shortened 32 frontvsplash apron that solves the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Tim
Tim,Quote:
Originally Posted by IBUILDM
I'll take a look at that splash shield though with just over 5.75" ground clearance now after spending a couple of hours whacking my knuckles adjusting the coil overs, might not need it - thanks
Well, if ya can't figure it out. I got just the solution for you.. My '92 Ranger's frame could probably be fit under your roadster.. might look goofy sitting 3' off the ground, but you wouldn't have ground clearence issues.. :LOL:
hope you get it all figured and you don't scrape all the time. I know what the roads are like in the spring around here, can't be much better out your way... one pothole on the way to work last summer, damaged 1 of the trunions on the Rambler to the point it should have been replaced, as it pulled the rubber and collapsed the cap on it and the spring was supported by the inner fender. sold it needing a new trunion
Matt - if I need more height, I wonder what an F350 4x4 chassis like my daily driver would do for the car - besides shake it apart:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt167
If you're up for some slalom driving excitement, take a trip to Albany and get off State St or Central Ave and on to ANY side street......:LOL::LOL:
I'd have to measure for sure, but I think my front valance on my 34 is about that low and I have had no problems other than my own stupidity (like rolling into a parking lot concrete tire bumper :eek:)