Yes, I remembered and that's why the hearty laugh, Thanks Again..Quote:
Originally Posted by jacplumb
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Yes, I remembered and that's why the hearty laugh, Thanks Again..Quote:
Originally Posted by jacplumb
Salute to American Graffeti is this next weekend here in Petaluma. Looking foward to it once again!
Good choice of color. Of course, I am a bit partial to yellow on deuce coupes.
To get this thread back on track, I have some new pictures. I had a bunch of parts come in this week, so here you go.
The Coupe finally has eyes. That's my Dad in the background, reading a Speedway catalog. :3dSMILE:
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00116a.jpg
Here's some pics with the new K&N 11x5 air cleaner....
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Here's all the parts that came in...
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Making holes for the 5" Auto Meter Speedometer and Tach. I had to drill a bunch of holes with a drill, and then use the bit like a router. The holes are still slightly smaller than the gauges, so when I smooth them out with my Dremel, they will slide right in. I forgot to bring my Dremel to finish it off, so I will post again tomorrow when I'm all done. I have a hole saw for the 2 5/8 gauges, and a unibit for the other switches and bulbs for the dash.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00124a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00125a.jpg
After I make all the holes, I'm going to paint it, and than re-install everything and wire it. I'm going to have a plug in harness for all of it, so I can unplug and remove the dash when I have to. What a beautiful day to be working on the car today.
Looking good and I like the headlight stance.
Nice pile o' parts! I see you chose the same spray guns as I . I was happy with them and hope you're the same. Thanks for all the photos.
Lots of nice stuff, but that BBF is still the best feature of the car!!!!
I bought those headlight shock mount brackets from this place 1928-1948 FORD LIGHTS Scroll down to part number BD-3375-S. They are a nice heavy piece and put those speedway 7" lamps in the right spot.
Today I smoothed the holes for the speedo and tach with a Dremel and little sanding rolls. The other gauges I used a 2 5/8 holesaw (much easier ;)). I must say, it came out pretty good. I love this instrument panel! I reused the 5" speedometer and tach from my Fairlane, and I have 2 5/8" gauges for the rest. I'm so glad they all fit, and they just made the "smiley" bar behind the panel. The switches left to right are; ignition, headlights, wiper, blower. I added two green LED lights for the turn signals, and a blue LED light for the high beam. The shift light for the tack fit perfect in between the speedo and tach. I'm going to install a bracket off the "smiley" bar to the shift light bracket. I also installed the Pontiac 50's style LED tail lights and license plate bracket, with LED light too. I bought it for my trailer awhile ago, but it didn't fit. I'm glad it didn't go to waste. :D Thanks guys for the good words. :cool: It felt so good to get working on it the past two days. I can't wait until next weekend.
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Good looking dash, very nicely done!
Thanks Dave! This is going to be the first thing that I paint. I don't want to wire it up, and then have to take it all apart again. I'm going to have connectors for the panel, so I can just unplugged and remove the panel when I want. It was so nice working on it the past two days!
Pat,
One thing I ran into - I bought a multi-pin connector from Radio Shack for my dash, using seven of nine positions for power, ground and signals. My tach started reading low, and I found that the connector was adding resistance to the circuit. Once I cycled the connector, the tach reading improved, but still not right, and I lost my oil pressure signal. Ended up cutting out the big nine-pin connector, and using individual M/F spade connectors for all connections. My lesson learned is that the connectors on those bulk multi-pin connectors need to be soldered to be good.
the Radio Shack stuff might work for radios, but for automotive, aircraft, military,etc, use the good stuff
Oh, yeh---what are your plans for the rear frame horns???? and show us pics of the drivers foot area when you get the pedals and steering in---
Pat and Roger, Jerry is right about the Radio Shack connectors. I like to use Deutsch connectors, they are available in many sizes from 2 wire and up, they are sealed which makes them excellent for a wet environment and they are one of the easiest connectors to disassemble if repairs are necessary. The downside is they require a very small, tight crimp on the terminal that the average home hobbyist wire crimp tool will not provide. Some of the Deutsch crimp tools can be very expensive but a good crimper can be picked up for $30 on ebay. I use an MSD crimp tool and the Deutsch die from Summit. In the past I've ordered the connectors from Batts Racing but I'm sure there are other sources such as Del City and others.
Mike
Mike,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike52
I picked up a set like this (not this exact set, but just like it) but I'm not sure it does the type crimp you're calling out. It does have the dies to "roll" the barrel sides into themselves. S&G Tool Aid 18960 Quick Change Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit
Roger, from your description (and a look at the link) I'd say you've got it.
Mike
Mike,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike52
Do you solder the connectors after crimp, or does the crimp alone work OK for you?
Roger
I know this is subject for heated debate but if the crimp is done properly, soldering isn't necessary. To answer your question regarding me specifically, at the Deutsch pin (terminal), I crimp only.
Mike
Crimp only--if you solder , the connection will fail as it is then too stiff and will break all the strands of the wire instead of flexing----aircraft are crimped
Thank you for the link to those nice connectors! That's exactly what I'm looking for. I didn't plan on Radio Shack stuff, because I want them to look and function like a factory connector. Thanks again!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
I hate to disagree with you Jerry but, all of the radar connectors on the DC-9 are soldered as are a few others and a lot of the connectors on the old A-4 were soldered, military requirement, with others being crimped. Douglas used Amphenol and Burndy for the most part, at least when I worked there they did. I believe the connectors Roger was referring to are Molex and I have used them extensively for various projects where moisture was not a consideration. They will hold 16 gauge wire easily but 14 gauge is pushing the envelope. I always solder and have never had a problem but then again I was military certified to solder.
BTW, FWIW DC-8's were full of splices while DC-9's and 10's used bulkhead connectors.
And fwiw.. I used a male/female multipin connector for the same purpose from Radio Shack and have never had any issue with it's use. I've assemble/dis-assembled multiple times during construction and it hasn't missed a beat.
Your dash came out great! It looks really nice.
Thank you! yeah, I've used the Radio Shack stuff for other things, and they do work great for the price. I just want the look of an "OEM" style connector for this project, so I'll shell out the extra money. Going back to the solder/not solder thing, I don't think I'll be soldering any of my connections, after a good crimp. Nothing gets put to the test like a car on the road today, and none of those connectors are soldered. Just fuel for thought. ;)
A good crimp comes from a good crimper. Some of the pin style connectors have specific crimpers. As a general all-around crimper, you can't beat a LOBSTER. Most of the ratchet style crimpers are pretty good, although I prefer to remove the ratchet assembly from the lobsters. As for soldering, if it's a high amp application, I'll crimp and solder. If it's a high movement / vibration app, no solder as the wire will break at the solder.
Amphenol solder pin connectors are just about bulletproof. They've been military standard for a long time.
It's been awhile since I posted some pictures, but I installed the Glide Engineering bench seat, drilled out and ordered the drop for the Flaming River column, and installed the Mohave heater today. I didn't have my good camera for the seat, but I will post some pictures of the heater install. I will also take a bunch of pics when I finally have the column in. The column took alot of figuring out, since we only had a small area to work with, but we were able to come up with a clean and simple arrangement. I can't wait to show you what we have when the drop comes, and then we will order the shaft length to finish it up. For now, I have just the heater pics. I had to fab something off the New Age roll bar, and came up with pretty good ideas during my long commute to work. Today, I finally welded it all in and it's solid! This will be a year around car, so Pops and I need some heat! We will drive to Cape May NJ for a cup of coffee in January, when it's 0 degrees. I ordered the fittings and heater hose from Summit, so I will post more when it's finished. Here's today.....
I came off the New Age rollbar, with 1/4" flat stock, 1 1/2" wide, and I grinded it down to a curve to weld around the rollbar. I also made gussets for both pieces, and welded them in. I was hoping I didn't need anything else, but after installing the heater with that setup, the unit would "vibrate" after a tap. I knew I had to go one step further, and add another support. I tapped the bottom flat stock so I wouldn't need any nuts, and 1/4 - 20, 1/2" long socket head screws (with lock/flat washers), were long enough to "hide" under the flat stock, with no threads showing. When I lined the heater up, I went to the lowest point of the "smiley" bar, and just be under it. The radio is going in the center under the dash, and my Dad is always cold, so the heater is friendly to the drivers side. That cubby hole to the right of the heater, may be the right front speaker, or maybe a small locking glove box; not sure yet.
The rims finally came in too this past Friday, so we have to prep them and paint them to mount the tires we ordered. I can't wait to see the Coupe with anything other than those reversed Crown Vic snow tires on the rear, and spare tires on the front. LOL :3dSMILE:
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Pat that loks freekin AWESOME so far!
Nice work Pat, very well done! Seems the details and accessories always eat up sooooooo much time!!!!!
Cool. I really enjoy these non-traditional approaches to building a street rod.
I don't like to do this, but------------have you actually considered how unsafe that is to a passenger??????? moving it to the middle of the firewall would lessen the chances of contact with knees/legs---------
I guess Jerry won't be riding shotgun with me. :LOL: If you look at my pictures, you'll see a cool shiny handle in the middle, to open the cowl vent. The heater can't go there. Besides, mounting the heater in the middle, would take out the driver's right knee, and the passenger's left knee. Now I've injured two people, and I wouldn't be able to live with myself. :( **) Jerry, if I ever get hit in this fiberglass car, I think the least of my worries would be knees/legs. ;) You did give me a good laugh though.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Thank you 1bad32, Dave, and Lynn; I appreciate it. :cool:
Hey Pat,,one more thing.
What type of shocks are those out back,and what's their hieght and spring rate?
Thanks
Glad you can laugh about it------------
Talk about good timing, Ed from New Age called me tonight, so I was able to ask him. They are Aldin Shocks with a spring rate of 200lbs. They aren't adjusted yet, and they are at the softest setting. He called me to let me know the windshield is shipping out tomorrow. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bad32
Thanks Pat,, Mine are 225 and that's probably why the ride is freekin stiffe!
Gonna change em ASAP
You are going to really be glad you went with the 5 window body. I had a 3 window 31 Chevy over here last month. After completing some repairs drove it over to the guys house, man talk about blind spots. My coupe is a five window never realized how much better the field of vision was over the 3 window bodies. Makes lane changes exciting I can tell ya that.
Hay it needs side pipes .......... What do you think there 1bad32 ?
We might as well get this off to a good start .....LOL
Absolutley!!Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
The guys over on the HAMB had a lot to say about this guy's pipes ;) Not sayin' right or wrong, only that they generated quite a lot of comment....**)
Attachment 54457
Chirp Chirp the hamb of course the final word of all things hotrodding ...... :HMMM:
That old guy in that jpeg sure does look like he is in a load of pain, arms flailing.
I can almost see smoke rising off his leg, no wait maybe he just ironing the pant leg ...LOL here we go again....
How about a thread "SIDE PIPES" show us your scars and hearing aids :D
all tongue n cheek rspears
The hamb **)..... Hilarious !
:LOL::LOL: Not a problem from here ;) I seldom venture into HAMBLand, but I did see their discussion about that guy - something about Doo Wop dance lessons or something:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
Now back to Pat's build thread, right??
Okay, back to the project. :3dSMILE: It was 100* today, but it didn't stop me. **) I made a bracket to get the column drop to the smiley bar, and my parts came in to get the rest in line. I had to use a heim joint for support and another u-joint. I only had one small area for my column, and it's very low to the floorboard, so the column drop is actually behind the smiley bar. A picture speaks a thousand words, so you will see what I had to do. This actually worked out nice, because I was able to weld the flat stock at the exact angle of the smiley bar, and keep the column drop straight up and down. This also helped me correct a boo boo. When I thought I would be able to mount the column drop right to the smiley, I had two sets of marks. I drill the two holes to the wrong set up marks, and that tilted the column to the right a tad. I was so mad at myself. :mad: With this setup up I had to do now, I was able to cover my mistake, and make it right. Tomorrow, I'm going to cut some flat stock, drill and tap the hole for the heim joint, and weld it to the motor mount and side rail. When I held the heim joint as steady as I could, and Dad turned the wheel, it steers very easy. All of my angles are less than 30*. I'm so glad this worked out, because this is one of the most difficult things we knew we had to get right, but it wasn't so bad at all. I will clean up my welds and make it look pretty. :3dSMILE:
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Looks good Pat, should steer just fine! The whole setup looks neat and clean!
