With a BBF in a Ford.. you can bet I'll stay tuned! :eek::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by patfromjersey
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With a BBF in a Ford.. you can bet I'll stay tuned! :eek::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by patfromjersey
Sure is great seeing you have the coupe home now Pat, makes getting work done on it a whole lot easier!!!!! Anxious to see progress on it again!!!
Nice coupe for sure. Summer is near or hear, good time to work on our projects.
Thanks to all my friends here. Here's a garage update first, and then I will resize some stuff for the car. Busy week this week, so I'm glad I'm at least trying to get my body off the chassis. :)
I have an I-beam with a chain hoist in my garage, that the previous owner installed. I found out today, that he has steel beams that built the Empire State Building (j/k), but the trolley was only rated for a 1/4 ton. :eek: I bought a 1 ton trolley today, and made a bracket to adapt it to a Chinese Warehouse (Harbor Freight) electric hoist. I bought all of this to hopefully lift the 1932 body off the chassis, but as of 2200 tonight, I had to give up. At least the hoist is in place.
I finally bought a bench vise to work with.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house028.jpg
Electric grinding wheel and wire wheel too...
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house029.jpg
Here's the old 1/4 ton trolley that was up there. To think I lifted my car trailer up with this. :LOL:
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house030.jpg
Here's my new 1 ton Chinese Warehouse trolley. Can't use that hook attachment though....
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house031.jpg
Chinese Warehouse electric hoist. For $169, you can't go wrong, unless it fails. :3dSMILE:
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house032.jpg
Steel plates for new bracket. Have to make it a two piece deal, so I could hang it back on the trolley. You'll see. **)
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house033.jpg
Had to make 1 1/4" holes in vertical pieces to put the shaft from the trolley in.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house034.jpg
I'm glad I have an 1 1/4" hole saw.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house035.jpg
The drill press I bought for $50 back in 1995 works great for this.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house036.jpg
These magnets work great for holding steel for tack welding.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house037.jpg
I used a big C-clamp to hole the trolley together while I took off the nuts and some washers.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house038.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house039.jpg
Here's the new brackets installed that I need for clearance and to mate the hoist and trolley. I don't think you can buy this off the shelf, so I'm glad I have a welder.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house041.jpg
I'm trying to lift this body off with the hoist, but I finally gave up tonight. I will be on it tomorrow afternoon again. I'm going to let the air out of the tires to give me more room or even take the wheels off and set the rotors/drums on moving dollies I have. When I raise the hoist, there's too much slack in the straps and it hits the safety stop before lifting. Oh well, this is Hot Rodding!!! :cool:
http://www.patfromjersey.com/house/house040.jpg
This week I finally installed the seat belts, dual Optima batteries, and then stripped the body to get pulled off to mount on the dolly. I can then disassemble everything to blast and paint. I was hoping to have this done like Friday. hahaha
Here's my test piece for painting, on the fiberglass cover for the gas tank, which I won't be using. Since I'm going to paint it myself in my garage, I bought the TP Tool HVLP turbine system, and I love it. There is literally NO overspray and the garage was clean after all the spraying I did. I did wear a respirator, but no blue was in the filters. It was my first time ever spraying. I eventually sanded it down and did it over, but I was glad that first time spraying went okay. I love this color I'm going to be painting the Coupe. It's called Norsea Blue, and it's a Ford color. My 2008 Crown Vic is this color. This is a one stage Urethane with no added clearcoat. I love it!!!! :3dSMILE:
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00354a.jpg
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http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00356a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00357a.jpg
BTW, I bought this awesome Optima battery charger and it worked great on my old batteries.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00358a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00359a.jpg
Hey, thanks for all the updates! New tools/equipment for the garage and made progress on the coupe, life is good! LOL..
It looks like your rear window operates up/down.. does it??? I have mine operable in my coupe and love it!
On the body lift, you can gain a bit of room by taking off the sheaved pulley and hooking it direct, but you're rated for 1320# double line connection. That means the hoist is 1/2 that hooked up direct, so the motor's good for ~650# which is about what you'll be lifting. You might try using a big ratchet strap, like you use for tying down on the trailer, with the strap running outside over your sheaved pulley hook and the ratchet inside the coupe (or in the door opening?). Pad the top to protect it from scratches, and you can snug up your strap to eliminate all the slack. There are several pictures of lifting rigs guys have used hiding in other build threads. Scroll down from this one and you'll see at least two more - http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-bu...tml#post385800
2 neighbors/ buddy's and a 12 pack has always worked 4 me !
Why does everyone overthink a small problem ??????
Have built over 45 32's in my days and it ain't no big deal pullin a body
Well for me figuring out how to get things done without calling for help is part of the fun, and my "body lift rig" cost me one six foot length of 2x6 lumber but I guess the time figuring out how to do it was wasted? :confused: Pat's figuring out how to get it done with what he has on hand, and that's OK for me. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
By the way, "my" approach was not original thought, but a suggestion from Duane at N&N and is the method he uses to lift every body they handle at their shop. He considers it the "easy way". Credit where credit's due.:)
Fella moves into a new state, new neighborhood.. I'm sure he's got buddy's all over the place waiting to lift off his coupe body! As always, thanks for being so understanding! I'm glad you here to share! Yeah, right! With all your experience(s) I'm positive you just snap your fingers and they assemble themselves!Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
Roger, thanks again for the tip. I didn't even think of using my trailer tie downs, to eliminate the stretch of the straps I'm using now.
DA34GUY - I had 3 co-workers over last Wednesday for a cookout and checking the project out for the first time, and I'm sure they would come over anytime I need them to lift a body off. I didn't finish the battery and seat belts then, so I wasn't ready yet. I've had people back in Jersey that helped my Dad and I take it on and off as well. This is my first '32 and first time trying on my own. I'll get it today after Church. I'm not really over thinking anything. I'm the kind of person that doesn't like to put people out, so I want to be able to do this by myself in my little garage, anytime I need to.
34_40 - Thanks for the support. I have two really nice neighbors since I moved here that can help too. The guy next to me helped me take my sandblast cabinet out of my truck after seeing me struggle through his window. :eek: There's more nice neighbors around me too, but it's an older neighborhood with alot of elderly ladies. I don't think they are strong enough to lift the body. :LOL:
I will post some more updates later. I can't believe my week of vacation is almost over. I loved spending it in my garage. I need a day just to clean it up! **)
A single thought to pass on----------------It isn't just being able to get the body off the chassis, but back on after its painted------------------
Wish I had the ceiling clearance to do what you are doing. I think one of those lifts would really come in handy for all sorts of stuff including engine pulling! Keep posting the progress, and could you elaborate on the sprayer setup as I'm thinking before I die I might paint my truck! Thanks Steve! :)
Thank you Jerry. I remembered your words as I was working today.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Steve, go to the TP Tools website and you can get all the professional information on the paint system. I will give my amatuer experience when I paint a little more. The one I bought is this... Showtime 90 HVLP Turbine Unit with ProLine Paint Spray Guns - TP Tools & Equipment
Big update for today. I have the body off the chassis!!! :cool: It wasn't too hard at all, after Roger's awesome advice of using locking straps. When I use these, I set them so my hook from the hoist was very low to the roof, and it would start lifting right away. Here's some pictures to show how I did. I'm so happy tonight. Thank you Roger!!!
The Coupe spins around nice on those moving dollies! :D
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00360a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00361a.jpg
A quick hello from me with the timer function on the camera. :3dSMILE:
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00362a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00363a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00364a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00365a.jpg
If anyone has a New Age Motorsports Coupe, here's the locations I put my straps.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00366a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00367a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00368a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00369a.jpg
I had to remove the rear wheels and set the drums and rear shock bottom mounts on moving dollies to clear the body. I had to strap it down because it started to move when I pushed it forward. :eek:
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00370a.jpg
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http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00373a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00374a.jpg
After all that, I finally cooked a rib eye steak that I've been marinating for 4 days. It was so tender and delicious! ;)
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00375a.jpg
I'm taking everything off now.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00376a.jpg
Garage looks great with everything back inside now. The neighbors loved this thing and kept coming over asking about it.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00377a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00378a.jpg
I can't wait until I start taking everything off the chassis to sandblast and paint. Great week for vacation I have to cut my lawn tomorrow and clean my gutters. :D
Good for you Pat. Glad it all came together for you!! And that steak looked delicious:LOL:
Worked out great, Pat!!! Don't ya just love it when a plan comes together?????
Thank you my friend. That steak was so awesome! Not as much as the Coupe on the dolly tho...LOL Thanks again for knowing me and sticking up for me. You're good people. As we say in Jersey, I'd kill for a guy like you. :cool:
Yeah Dave!!! It was all Roger on this one. I owe him big time. I've been working every hour I could on this thing during my week's vacation that I had tunnel vision. These tie down straps were the best thing since slice bread. The thick rollup of those old t-shirts didn't put the slightest mark on my fiberglass too. Great day today!! Now I know what I have to do when I put the body back on after painting. Thanks so Jerry for that. All day today I was thinking, how is this going to work after paint.
Glad the ratchet strap suggestion helped you get over the hump, Pat! By the time you're ready for the body to go back on after paint you may have a bunch of those new neighbors itching to help set it in place so they can claim rights to a ride!!
You might want to take a look at adapting a pair of engine stands for a chassis rotisserie now....
Hi Pat! Ed & Chris here looks like your having alot of fun working on your project, hows dad doing, I think while you have the body off you should order from speedway stainless steel thru-frame brake line fittings (#910--31360) place behind rear crossmenber on each side it will look alot neater than tab above and below chassis rails, I forgot to tell you. To help with bleeding the brakes, just remember master cylinder, wheel cylinder and calipers are on the same level, use brake bleeder and vacuum pump kit it will make life easier just becareful when using it.
Now TP HVLP Turbine System is a nice unit, I have one since they first came out 20 years or so ago, no water problem, nice dry air but the more the unit is used for a complete paint job the hotter the air becomes, watch your outside temp because the air going thru the turbine will get much hotter the paint will dry faster so if reudcer is 70 -75 degrees move up to 80 - 85 degree limit. If it was a small part no problem, but larger overall paint job it will dry too fast on you.
Also, being your first paintwork, I'de advise using a basecoat/clearcoat system. Small parts are easier to achieve good metallic layout, but you could end up with zebra stripes and blotches. With a Basecoat System you have excellent control of the metallic layout. Basecoat tacks up very fast making it difficult to run or sag. Allow Basecoat to dry overnight to prevent solvent pops.
Also, should the car ever see chipped paint, you stand a good chance of touching it up, in many cases perfectly. With single stage, it's the whole panel or the whole piece. Do-over. Remember its not the paint or spraygun, its the painter that make job come out good. Call us for more info on painting, for more insight.
Hi Ed and Chris! Thanks for the reply. It's been a slow process since we picked her up, but I'm all settled in Maryland now, and I finally have everything in my garage to finish it, including the car. Thanks for the tips on the paint. I did buy the 85 degree reducer, anticipating the warmer weather and reading about the added heat generated for the turbine. With the little bit I spent practicing before the car came down, I think I will do okay with it. I also have a Saleen Mustang front air dam for my brother Joe to paint, so more practice. I will do all the metal parts as well, before I even attempted the body. I was going with the one stage thinking chips in the paint would be easier to fix. I didn't know it was the opposite. I'm going to leave Dad's brake job as is. ;) I have to run to work now, but I will be in touch with you guys on the phone to catch up. Thanks again!
The metal ratchets near my fiberglass were too close for comfort. With the old t-shirts providing padding, I didn't really like what I did. I will work on making some spreader bars in the future. Here's a few more pics that I took while working on it after work. I'm entering another week of vacation next week, so I hope to start taking parts off to sandblast and paint. This is such a fun project!
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00379a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00380a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00381a.jpg
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Your doing a nice job with the pics and keeping everybody up to date on your build-----too bad so many have dropped out or left the site the last year or so------------Nice choice of fittings on the AN hoses---have you stuck any of the braid wires into your fingers--ouch!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the pics Pat! Can I ask why the ball valve?
Ball valve, I didn't know we were talking toilets.
its so he can shut off the fuel while he replaces the fuel pump ----------I was wondering why he chose electric water and fuel pump??????????
Yes Jerry, I did get those stainless lines in my finger one time on the -12 I had to cut with the hack saw. Ouch!!!! LOL I'm still on the fence with the ball valve, and that's why I didn't use the tape and thread it in. I was just thinking in case I wanted to clean the fuel filter or change the pump on the road. I plan on driving this car ALOT. The main reason I went to electric fuel and water pump, is because there's no mechanical fuel pump that can supply the close to 600HP engine I have, and the electric water pump, that I had on my Fairlane, was for clearance issues. It actually cooled the Fairlane better than a mechanical water pump, and now in the Coupe, I need the clearance. That's why I have the dual Optima batteries. I know that I can drive an hour with all my electric stuff and still make it home if my alternator died. Don't ask me how I know that. :3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Here's a picture of the clearance I had with my Fairlane and this engine.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/521stroker/521600.jpg
I know it's not the same thing "exactly".. but... I've seen more than a few to many brass nipples break when hanging out like that in marine applications.
possibly exchange the nipple between the valve and tank for a "CLOSE" nipple in heavy red brass. Like I said, not really the same thing but, it just "jumped" out at me hanging out there with no support on the discharge side.
Just a comment Pat.. not a critique or anything else implied!!! :LOL::LOL::3dSMILE:
The big block is a bit snug in the Fairlane platform, did a 429 in a '68 Torino once, fun times!!!!
My vote goes for the shutoff valve on the fuel, one of the companies is making one now that's built right into the "in" side of the filter. Saves a bit of room.
I measured a 460 oem pump and it was 5 5/8 from mounting surface to pulley mount surface-----
Edelbrock has 2 different fuel pumps, lesser one is 6 lbs pressure good to 600 hp and doesn't need a regulator and bigger race version 10lbs and needs regulator
just seems much more simple ---------------
I just used the same type of ball valve shutoff floating in line on the fuel line before the filter. It's flexible so no chance of breaking off, cheap and effective, making changing those cartridges easy, I on the other hand put the filter in a bad spot which needs to be moved before we go on any drives! :)
No, thank you for the advice! I never really thought about that, but I decided I will use a steel close nipple when I do the final assembly. I appreciate when someone steps up with things that don't look right. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I've been a busy little beaver on my car the past few weeks, so I have some more pics to share. After tomorrow, I will be ready to "blow" it apart and start sandblasting and painting everything on the chassis. I'm a total nut case, so I decided to redo my exhaust system. I never really liked the rush job on did on the exhaust, and those horrible hangers I had on the DynoMax mufflers. I decided to cut everything off and start fresh, with a set of 3" Summit glasspacks that I had on my brother's 47 Ford Truck. I cut out the Dynomax ones, and welded in those. I also bought a set of ball and socket connectors for the pipe from the header, to the muffler/tailpipe piece. I added a nice pipe hanger midway for support, and kept the tailpipe mount in the back. This system comes out 1-2-3 and is so simple. I also have a ton of room now for a driveshaft loop, which I still have to weld in. I also finished running the braided line for the fuel line. The regulator mount was another project, because it wasn't made for my MagnaFuel regulator like it said it was, so I had to modify that and stick it on the driver's side, which I really didn't want to do. All in all, I'm happy how it all turned out. Here's some pictures....:cool:
Old exhaust cut out, new tank to pump line run. I will be replacing that brass nipple with a steel close nipple
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00479a.jpg
I will finish drilling and tapping for the screws that hold all the braided lines to the frame when I pull everything out. All my braided line will have those rubber insulated clamps. Home Depot had them on the shelf.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00481a.jpg
Here's the new exhaust system in place, tack welded, ready to come out and final weld. I can't wait to hear this big Ford cam through those glasspacks. :D
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00492a.jpg
I did a leak test on each of the four exhaust pieces, before I painted them with High Temp Header paint. I found these pipe plugs in Lowes, that fit my 3" exhaust perfect. On one of the ends, I drilled a small 1/8" hole to blow air through to charge it up and spray with soapy water. Don't add too much air if it's tight, or you'll blow one of the plugs into something, like a house. LOL :D Don't ask me how I know that. I had a couple small leaks which I rewelded. I'm just an amatuer welder and don't get much practice time, but my exhaust will be leak free. :) No more bubbles after firing up the welder again.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00503a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00506a.jpg
Here's where I had to modify my cool regulator bracket I bought. On the passenger side, the bracket was in the way of the AN fitting to the fuel bowl, and I couldn't screw the hose in. I had to move it to the drivers side, and use 180* fittings to keep everything tight. I think with the heater hoses, it would have been in the way of that too. I didn't want to mount it to the firewall, so that's why I went this route.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00509a.jpg
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Here's some pics of the fuel line routing. I love braided line. It kind of goes with the theme of my project; overkill. :D
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00515a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00516a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00517a.jpg
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http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00519a.jpg
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00520a.jpg
Here's my four exhaust pieces hanging and drying. I was going to Jet Hot Coat all of this, but my welds aren't pretty enough for that expense. :LOL: I can take it off and touch everything up when I want. I did spend alot of time on the 90* drop under the frame, so that will look good from the outside. The other welds are under the body, so they won't be seen. I will just send the Jayster Headers back to Sanderson for a recoat, since I had cylinders 4 and 8 reworked. Also, I must have had a bad ground at one time with the Mig Welder, and I had the stainless fuel line drapped across the engine and headers. I had two burn marks from the line to the header pipe that needs to be retouched. LOL I chopped out those sections of braided line.
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00521a.jpg
Lastly, how cool are my Maryland plates? My Dad and I are both Pat, so I thought this was fitting. I'm so glad my first choice wasn't taken. :cool:
http://www.patfromjersey.com/32ford/00522a.jpg
WOW! Awesome progress, and Awesome plates to boot! As always thanks for sharing the pics too..
Thank you! I love sharing pics, because I've learned so much from others sharing. That's what it's all about. BTW, I bought a nice LG A/C - Heating unit for my garage, so I'm going to be comfy all year round. LOL It's so humid down here in Baltimore, and my vacation week was over 115* in my garage a few weeks ago. I have to make a wood insert for my small window for the exhaust, and I'll be all set tomorrow. Bring on the heat!!!! hahah
Lifts and dolleys and fixtures, oh my. I'm having deja vu all over again. Hopefully that's over for me. Oh - and nice work, by the way.
:)
:eek: Heat AND A/C ??? :eek::eek: "Spoiler Alert" rofl..Quote:
Originally Posted by patfromjersey
now I'm really jealous! HAH! :LOL::LOL::D:LOL::LOL:
great build picts, I have a someday project, a glass 32 roadster of unkown manufacture, Jag front and rear suspensions and Buick nailhead, Now that I am old and have a big shop with everything in it, not enough ambition,
Hey guys, just checking in today after not being healthy since my last post. Lots of changes for me, but I've been waiting for this cold winter in Maryland to get by so I can continue on my '32. All of my fab work is done, so when we eventually warm up, I just need to sandblast and paint everything then assemble. I've been miserable just looking in at her everyday, but I will start getting things done fast. I'm just glad I'm not seeing my doctor on a regular basis.
Sorry to hear of the health "issues".. but glad to see you posting again! Like everyone else.. I wanna say, "C'mon Springtime"!!!!