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And fwiw.. I used a male/female multipin connector for the same purpose from Radio Shack and have never had any issue with it's use. I've assemble/dis-assembled multiple times during construction and it hasn't missed a beat.
Your dash came out great! It looks really nice.
Thank you! yeah, I've used the Radio Shack stuff for other things, and they do work great for the price. I just want the look of an "OEM" style connector for this project, so I'll shell out the extra money. Going back to the solder/not solder thing, I don't think I'll be soldering any of my connections, after a good crimp. Nothing gets put to the test like a car on the road today, and none of those connectors are soldered. Just fuel for thought. ;)
A good crimp comes from a good crimper. Some of the pin style connectors have specific crimpers. As a general all-around crimper, you can't beat a LOBSTER. Most of the ratchet style crimpers are pretty good, although I prefer to remove the ratchet assembly from the lobsters. As for soldering, if it's a high amp application, I'll crimp and solder. If it's a high movement / vibration app, no solder as the wire will break at the solder.
Amphenol solder pin connectors are just about bulletproof. They've been military standard for a long time.
It's been awhile since I posted some pictures, but I installed the Glide Engineering bench seat, drilled out and ordered the drop for the Flaming River column, and installed the Mohave heater today. I didn't have my good camera for the seat, but I will post some pictures of the heater install. I will also take a bunch of pics when I finally have the column in. The column took alot of figuring out, since we only had a small area to work with, but we were able to come up with a clean and simple arrangement. I can't wait to show you what we have when the drop comes, and then we will order the shaft length to finish it up. For now, I have just the heater pics. I had to fab something off the New Age roll bar, and came up with pretty good ideas during my long commute to work. Today, I finally welded it all in and it's solid! This will be a year around car, so Pops and I need some heat! We will drive to Cape May NJ for a cup of coffee in January, when it's 0 degrees. I ordered the fittings and heater hose from Summit, so I will post more when it's finished. Here's today.....
I came off the New Age rollbar, with 1/4" flat stock, 1 1/2" wide, and I grinded it down to a curve to weld around the rollbar. I also made gussets for both pieces, and welded them in. I was hoping I didn't need anything else, but after installing the heater with that setup, the unit would "vibrate" after a tap. I knew I had to go one step further, and add another support. I tapped the bottom flat stock so I wouldn't need any nuts, and 1/4 - 20, 1/2" long socket head screws (with lock/flat washers), were long enough to "hide" under the flat stock, with no threads showing. When I lined the heater up, I went to the lowest point of the "smiley" bar, and just be under it. The radio is going in the center under the dash, and my Dad is always cold, so the heater is friendly to the drivers side. That cubby hole to the right of the heater, may be the right front speaker, or maybe a small locking glove box; not sure yet.
The rims finally came in too this past Friday, so we have to prep them and paint them to mount the tires we ordered. I can't wait to see the Coupe with anything other than those reversed Crown Vic snow tires on the rear, and spare tires on the front. LOL :3dSMILE:
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Pat that loks freekin AWESOME so far!
Nice work Pat, very well done! Seems the details and accessories always eat up sooooooo much time!!!!!
Cool. I really enjoy these non-traditional approaches to building a street rod.
I don't like to do this, but------------have you actually considered how unsafe that is to a passenger??????? moving it to the middle of the firewall would lessen the chances of contact with knees/legs---------
I guess Jerry won't be riding shotgun with me. :LOL: If you look at my pictures, you'll see a cool shiny handle in the middle, to open the cowl vent. The heater can't go there. Besides, mounting the heater in the middle, would take out the driver's right knee, and the passenger's left knee. Now I've injured two people, and I wouldn't be able to live with myself. :( **) Jerry, if I ever get hit in this fiberglass car, I think the least of my worries would be knees/legs. ;) You did give me a good laugh though.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Thank you 1bad32, Dave, and Lynn; I appreciate it. :cool:
Hey Pat,,one more thing.
What type of shocks are those out back,and what's their hieght and spring rate?
Thanks
Glad you can laugh about it------------
Talk about good timing, Ed from New Age called me tonight, so I was able to ask him. They are Aldin Shocks with a spring rate of 200lbs. They aren't adjusted yet, and they are at the softest setting. He called me to let me know the windshield is shipping out tomorrow. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bad32
Thanks Pat,, Mine are 225 and that's probably why the ride is freekin stiffe!
Gonna change em ASAP
You are going to really be glad you went with the 5 window body. I had a 3 window 31 Chevy over here last month. After completing some repairs drove it over to the guys house, man talk about blind spots. My coupe is a five window never realized how much better the field of vision was over the 3 window bodies. Makes lane changes exciting I can tell ya that.
Hay it needs side pipes .......... What do you think there 1bad32 ?
We might as well get this off to a good start .....LOL
Absolutley!!Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi