32 Duece steel frame roadster lt1 engine build

Recently learned about this forum on garage journal. I figured I would start a build thread. I have a duece steel frame from hot rod custom stuff that my dad bought a while back. Never got around to doing anything and might have been left outside a few times in the rain.:o
Anyway the frame and glass body are now mine. Im going to start the build. I have a rebuilt lt1 to go in it as I wanted fuel injection and frame was already setup for sbc. Plan on running 8.8" rearend from 90 ranger. Same size length as high dollar 9" rearends. Look forward to learning from this site and posting pic as the build continues.

Great start for a project.

Glass bodies don't hold their shape over time (unassembled) so that is something to watch out for.

Best of luck, and keep us posted!

Welcome aboard-----you'll love the street performance of the LT1 -what trans are you running??

Yea the body wasn't on the frame for a few years. Has set on it for the last year. Fitmet looks ok. Minor gaps around door but again body isn't shimmed or bolted down. Hopefully everything will line up once I get to that stage.

Running 4l60e. Donor car was 95 caddy fleet wood. Running lt4 hot cam setup. Should be fun car to drive.

Welcome aboard. You've got an ambitious adventure ahead, take as much enjoyment from it as you can.

Did you get the wiring harness, ecm, body control, etc from the donor car???If you got the ecm and module , did you get the steering column and/or the KEY ? ( key is matched to theft control modual) and fuel system won't work unless they are paired--

Welcome! Great project, keep posting pics!

Rich

Welcome and very nice project you have started on!

Welcome from down under New Zealand. Great project that you have although I'm a bit stuck in the '60's and prefer carburettors on open engined Hot Rods. But, as mentioned, I was a hammer hand on the construction of the Ark,so, yeah, I'm still stuck in the dark ages. I will look forward to following your build, thanks for joining and the story so far.

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Did you get the wiring harness, ecm, body control, etc from the donor car???If you got the ecm and module , did you get the steering column and/or the KEY ? ( key is matched to theft control modual) and fuel system won't work unless they are paired--

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I have the engine harness and ecm. I will have to send the ecm in to get a lot of stuff deleted(trouble codes turn off) and they will bypass the theft module.

Welcome to the site. It's good to have you here, look forward to seeing your build come together.

Before you spend a lot of money on 95 computer-1996 were OBD2 and lots more capabilities

I don't remember, but are the iron LT heads angle plug like the aluminum ones are????

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Before you spend a lot of money on 95 computer-1996 were OBD2 and lots more capabilities

I don't remember, but are the iron LT heads angle plug like the aluminum ones are????

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Actually looked at the vin number for donor car. It's a 94 caddy so odb1. Cast iron has straight spark plug holes.

It's been a little quiet in here lately. Looking forward to watching your build. Good stuff to begin with. Once you get the body bolted to the frame and shimmed, a few hours in the hot sun will help move everything back in shape. Do you know who manufactured the body?

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Originally Posted by rumrumm

It's been a little quiet in here lately. Looking forward to watching your build. Good stuff to begin with. Once you get the body bolted to the frame and shimmed, a few hours in the hot sun will help move everything back in shape. Do you know who manufactured the body?

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I think it's a rat glass body, I have to search for the invoice to make sure. Probably purchased over 10 yrs ago and been sitting. Body sits pretty good on frame. Minor gap around door but hopefully will be gone once bolted to frame and shimmed.

I would suggest supporting the frame in 3 (THREE) places so as not to induce any twist into it while doing body mounting-if you use 4 places you will twist it even if minor and create issues with door gaps etc

Depending on the amount of twist in the body, it can and will induce some stress into the frame no matter how many places it is supported, "IF" those locations aren't anchored to maintain a set elevation.

How much "perfection" are you chasing? Personally - If chasing to that level, I'd mount the chassis in 4 points minimum, close to the body mounting locations, and anchor the chassis as secure as possible. whether that anchor be the floor of the shop or a frame jig. A laser level can be used to verify "flatness" of the chassis probably down to a 32nd of an inch.

Actually if you want to do it that way----it needs to be at the points where the suspension will be-maybe even with tires /wheels on it.

Once I getting a rolling chassis I will definitely be looking help to mount and shim body to get it right. I will post pics when I get to that point.

Debating on I beam from speedway 47" or a Pete jake I beam 48". Can anyone tell me the big difference about a inch difference? No fenders so no clearance issues. The cost difference is around $300 for a chrome beam. Any input would help me thanks

If you're going to buy a chromed axle, ask some questions and find out if the piece was baked to remove free hydrogen atoms from the metal following plating. It should be done within hours of plating. If it was not baked, the results could be fatal when it breaks. Read this about hydrogen embrittlement.....
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement

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In addition, I would opt for one that is forged rather than cast.

just went through this with p&j, no you will not notice 1" difference. Generally a hiboy uses a wider axle than a fendered car. My axle on the ride i am building is narrow but with my wheel offset its track width is close to the same as the car i measured with the wide axle. Yes forged is better, but currently socals is and p&j is not, are they having any problems with the malleable, absolutely not. My concern is more in the lines of "country of origin". I can tell you on the coupe i am building its nose heavy with a hemi, p&j said forget what you heard or read on the internet, only go with a tube axle for the weight its gonna have, so make your own assumption what tbe strongest axle is. dont know about speedways axles, but i havent heard anything good or bad but with my situation strength is needed, if yours is a sbc i would say no problems, but p&j is 45 miles from me and kinda handy and preferred by me . check and see some of the speedway stufg doesn't have perch holes and has welded on brackets which i dont care for unless the axle is suicided. best of luck matt

Finally got front end parts. Running Pete and jake 48" I beam. Speedway monoleaf and misc hardware from speedway. This frame is deuce steel frame with a model a front crossmember. They supposedly run custom made radius rods. I did order a set of cheap plain radius rods to help with mock up and to determine measurements. I have a view questions so hopefully some of you guys can help out.

I have read that positive caster needs to be around 8-10 degrees during setup and after frame is on the ground with wheels it should be around 5-6 degrees depending on rake, does this sound about right?

As you can see in the picture the frame is already setup for holes to mount radius rods. I am short by a few inches. Current setup is monoleaf on bottom and 4 spacers up inside cross member. Wondering if it is a options to raise the leaf within cross member and put spacers under the leaf. This would raise the up and draw my radius rods closer to the mounting locations. Thoughts on this idea? Attachment 67526Attachment 67527Attachment 67528

Sorry about picture angles. Uploaded from my phone.

Well got custom hairpin rods made and front end is mocked. Still not completely tight and rear end is just mocked up to inspect.
Looking for input to make sure i measure everything right.
Measurementsi need to do-
1. Measure both I beam ends to frame(same location on each side) on both sides to make sure I beam is true.
2. Once I beam is set then measure center of hubs front to rear, then X pattern measurement to each hub to make sure axles are center.
Am I missing anything else for measurements? Caster is around 6-7 degrees right now. Should I have more at this stage or is that something To adjust later after I have a rolling chassis and can factor in ride height?

More pics. Some reason I load them all at once

Input anyone?

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Originally Posted by Free07110

Well got custom hairpin rods made and front end is mocked. Still not completely tight and rear end is just mocked up to inspect.
Looking for input to make sure i measure everything right.
Measurementsi need to do-
1. Measure both I beam ends to frame(same location on each side) on both sides to make sure I beam is true.
2. Once I beam is set then measure center of hubs front to rear, then X pattern measurement to each hub to make sure axles are center.
Am I missing anything else for measurements? Caster is around 6-7 degrees right now. Should I have more at this stage or is that something To adjust later after I have a rolling chassis and can factor in ride height?

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I believe you are on the right path, It sounds like you are doing everything to make sure it's square and true, And the caster is good and yes, you'll need to verify it as you progress in the fabrication.

And thanks for all the pics, they do help.

A thing that I do on mock up suspension stuff-I figure out suspension height , tire radius, etc and then make/install some tubes with ends that mount to the shock absorber mounts at the length of ride ht----that keeps suspension static points at heights I'm working around and want to keep constant-------

I then support the chassis/frame frome that area at the rear and one point centered at front spring mount point in the front so there isn't any cross bind in the body mounting

Rule of thumb to remember that is helpful in navigating the world is one in sixty equals one degree--it also works with suspension serup----drive shaft/u-joint angles, caster/camber angles, etc--------

A good point for referance on axle squareness (front and/or rear) is a central point at trans mount crossmember--------

I also use mostly 9 inch ford rears so I have a pumpkin with a pinion shaft housing set up for diameter of engine main bearings and use a thickwalled tube that diameter to establish drive line angles---and that dummy engine with that 3/4 wall tube is heavy but very stabile-----

Finally got it rolling. Lots of research and lots of help from Don at DA34guy to get to this point. Definitely a cool moment being able to roll this thing outside for a picture.

Ya nailed it Brian.

Whats your plan for exhaust routing?? Stock LT1 routing has left side pipe from manifold going under oil pan to join right side which does leave you space on left side frame for master cylinder, etc--------

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Whats your plan for exhaust routing?? Stock LT1 routing has left side pipe from manifold going under oil pan to join right side which does leave you space on left side frame for master cylinder, etc--------

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I will leave the exhaust routing to the exhaust shop. Should be room to run dual exhaust pipe thru out frame cross member to the rear.

With the Ford 8.8 having a 4 inch pinion offset--------will you have good clearance in that hoop?? Picture angle probably making it look ??????
and can you easily lengthen the cross link on the rear end???????

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

With the Ford 8.8 having a 4 inch pinion offset--------will you have good clearance in that hoop?? Picture angle probably making it look ??????
and can you easily lengthen the cross link on the rear end???????

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Pinion off set is 2” from center. As long as Trans and rearend drive line angles are parallel to each other and never intersect then you won’t have issues. U joints will do there job. A lot of vehicles are off set from the factory to clear gas tanks and other stuff. Not uncommon to see on vehicles today.

I’m assuming you are referring to the pan hard bar on the rearend. I could of ran it to the other side to lengthen but decided not to. Panhard bar is almost 20” long and no more than 1.5” drop from mounts. Most panhard bars I have research recommends 20” bar with no more than 2” drop over the length of the bar.

That looks very nice!

Attachment 71377Attachment 71378Attachment 71379Slow progress is still progress. Trying hard to get the mock up done by fall and then blow it apart for paint. Rodwell windshield is next to install and just finishing up loose ends.