Just wanted to get my So-Far pictures posted for ya.http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...25dsc01375.jpg
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...25dsc01377.jpg
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...2125frame6.jpg
Printable View
Just wanted to get my So-Far pictures posted for ya.http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...25dsc01375.jpg
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...25dsc01377.jpg
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...2125frame6.jpg
rocknrod,
VERY nice looking frame. Good . . . uh, no . . . GREAT attention to detail. It looks very Pete and Jake / Super Bell. How's my guess? I can totally appreciate the work that went into that, since I just finished a '34 frame for a channeled 3-window coupe. Geez, I wish I had the room underneath for brakes and exhaust. Mine was like stuffing 5 pounds of sh. . . er "stuff" into a 3 pound bag.
Hooking your front brakes to tires is going to be a problem, though. :LOL:
Nice clean look. What is the coating on the rear axle? Is it Jet-Hot on the exhaust?
Mike in Tucson
i believe it to be a so-cal frame , how is my guess . the reason for that guess is the step inside for the gas lines and cables to run in a channell .
Good catch, Kenny. SoCal makes sense. Pete Chapouris. That's why the hairpins, ladder bars, backing plates, motor mounts, etc., are all identical to P&J's. Pete's also a dealer for P&J.
The backing plates are Super Bell, but I had them chromed.
Also the drilled front axle is chromed (everything is chromed).
The rear end, l adder bars, rear backing plates, all chromed.
The exhaust is Sterling Jet Hot.
I have rear drum finned covers that are jet hot, you can see them when I get the real wheels on it (just rollers there now).
Thanks guys for the Ku-Do's
:cool:
Rod,
You are amazing. If ever I can I decide to have a car built by someone, you are it. This is just another example of the Rod Macaffey"do it way right" way of doing things.
Your friend,
Jim Sibley:cool:
Looks great.
I ought to make a gallery of each of you that put up these kind of detailed frames with exhaust so that the "kids" that ask about the different types of rear suspension bars can get an idea of what I mean when I talk about the routing challenges. Yours is a great example of how much effort it takes to get over the front pivots, and then over the axle while missing all the other necessary pieces in there. I hate seeing those low hanging short cut set-ups that go under the axle and mess up "the look". With just a "little" more effort you've got something that functions well AND looks good. If you haven't had a coated exhaust before you'll love it.
Bob,
Finishing this one is going to be interesting. I planned to take the exhaust out in front of the rear wheels, but changed my mind. Too easy, not elegant. I have to go straight out toward the shock mounts, then put my 180 on an angle towards the center of the car to clear the shocks.
Channeled car + lowered floor + law of physics that says "two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time" = a lot of head scratching.
Working on that will give a couple more days reprieve from blocking . . . :LOL:
Rod,
I'm in Frisco, TX visiting my son all week. Any chance of dropping by to take a look at the frame? Might give me some ideas on mine.
Henry Rifle
AKA
Jack Cox
Virginia Beach
Both are really nice frames guys. Henry, did you put those tube braces on there and make them yourself or is it a kit? I wan't to do that to mine if I go big block and didn't know if they made a kit or not or if I have to just make em myself?
Exactly Jack, and you've got the extra complication of the crossover pipe just under the trans. They're great for evening the sound out though! Glad you're opting for the "more elegant" approach.
FMX,
These came with the chassis. I've done it before, though. I drew out a pattern, decided how the main tubes needed to be bent, and had someone mandrel bend them for me. Bent them a little long, then cut to fit. The short braces were straight, so I just fishmouthed them and welded them in. I have the advantage of being able to use AutoCAD, so making a drawing is pretty easy. The motor mounts were done the same way. Get a piece of tube with the right bend - a little long, of course - then trim to fit. It's kind of like making an exhaust with pre-bent pipe, but with heavier wall tubing.
The hard part is finding someone that can bend the tubing for you. I happened to have a friend who built drag cars for a living, so I had it easy.
Both frames are great looking, Congrats on the superb fit and finish.
I dropped in on Rod this afternoon. If you think his frame photos look good, you should see it in person.
Quote:
Originally posted by Henry Rifle
I dropped in on Rod this afternoon. If you think his frame photos look good, you should see it in person.
Thank you Jack, your an awesome guy. It was Great to meet you
yesterday. Comming from a man of your experience I appreciate that. Your project sounds and looks terrific as well. If I was not so busy cuttin up in my own garage we should head out to my shop in Wylie sometime. Thanks again Jack.:)
----------------------------------------
JIM Sybley Now there is a great painter ! Really good to hear from you all the way out there in Washington now ? Why arent you painting my car ?:LOL:
Did you work on that silver chopped & Channeled panel of Gumba's in California ? I built that and it was in Street Rodder Mag (yellow then), He did some kinda changes on it too, huh ?
Rod,
Gumbas truck turned out real cool. He sold it and built the nicest 50s style model A I have ever seen. I did the body and paint on it, and if I were in your neck of the woods, I would be honered to do yours for you.
Jim
Henry. Does the tubing have to be in a specific spot and all or can I make up my own in my own style and just put the tranny in there and everything and work around it?
Of course it does - otherwise, it would be easy. ;)Quote:
Does the tubing have to be in a specific spot
To a certain degree, everyone does that. However, the crossmember needs to work with the rest of the chassis - and fit under the body without blocking out all of the other stuff (traction bars, driveshaft, exhaust, etc) that need to be there.Quote:
can I make up my own in my own style
Yep, you can if you want to tear it all out and re-do it when you get the rest of the stuff. You really need to have the engine, rear end and transmission available in order to properly construct the crossmembers, and you need to know the ride height of the car. The trick is to get the engine in it's proper location with motor mounts tacked or clamped in place, the rear end in place, and the car blocked to the expected ride height. Then you block the transmission up so that the output shaft has about a 3 degree down bubble. Hang or block the rear end in place to see where the driveshaft goes, and make sure you plan room for the exhaust system. You can do all this with jackstands, cement blocks and 2x4s if you have to. After you do all that, you can start thinking about the rest of the structure. You have to think of the chassis as a system, not a bunch of parts that you can do one piece at a time without thinking about the others.Quote:
just put the tranny in there and everything and work around it?
FMX, it seems to me that you don't know much about chassis construction. That's not an insult, just a conclusion I see from your questions, and it's something we all went through. None of us was born a chassis expert. Before you build or modify a chassis, you need to get more information than any of us can line out for you in this forum. My suggestons: Spend a few bucks on catalogs from chassis makers like Alston, Chassis Engineering - and maybe even Fat Jacks. Pore through as many magazines as you can to look at chassis construction on fat-fendered rods. The high-dollar rods in Street Rodder, Street Rod Builder, and others usually show the chassis without the body. See how they place all of their components, and work from there.
Hey Rockin;
Nice job on the Frame, Mine should be looking similar in 4 or 5 months, What kind of Mufflers did you use, have you heard them on someone elses car, How's the sound ? did you run S.S. Brake Lines ? and if so who did you get the materials from ? Lots of Luck to you on your construction and a JOB WELL DONE. Thanks in advance on your response. Tim
Henry, thanks. I have a few book's and magazines on chassis and So Cal Speed Shop Chassis book. What I was thinking about doing was getting EVERYTHING on like the rear end, engine, exhaust, tranny, brakes, everything and THEN doing the tubing similar to how yours is because I saw a lot of pics in the So Cal book and a few mags I have and they have the same style as the round tubing you have there. I will see about it, it's not any of my worries at the moment, just wanted to get some info on it.
Hey Tim,Quote:
Originally posted by Tim Guzowski
Hey Rockin;
.....What kind of Mufflers did you use, have you heard them on someone elses car, How's the sound ? did you run S.S. Brake Lines ? and if so who did you get the materials from ?........Tim
Inline tube has all the parts you need to get the brake system done.
The mufflers are Flowmaster Hushpowers.:cool:
Rockin ;
Thanks for the reply, Have you heard the mufflers on a running car ? How do they sound, and what made you choose them ? Are they S.S. ? Approx what was their cost each ? That is one Nice Chassis, Thanks Tim