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Tech has it, he'll probably see the post. I have the book, but not a clue how to post a pic of the correct installation. Pro Z might have some shots of his in his gallery. Big thing is the location of the upper mount for the belts. I think he had a pic or two of his 'maro with the belt mounts????
There's a guy in the nursing home here in a coma from a motorcycle crash, he was hit by a drunk driver and suffered severed head injuries. That was 25 years ago, and he's still in the same condition today... Yeah, the drunk was in the wrong, but Jerry is in the coma......Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Crotch Strap:Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
The crotch strap must be anchored even with or behind the chest line of the driver. Lay a flat board against the driver's chest/stomach with him seated in the car in driving position. Looking at the board from the side of the car, follow that line down to the floor. The strap needs to anchor there or behind there, never in front of that point. The strap should be mounted so that the line of pull is to the front of the car. If mounted directly to the sheet metal of the floor of the car, put a very large and very thick flatwasher on the underside to prevent the nut from being pulled through the sheetmetal in the event of an "incident", as NHRA calls them. A bulletproof installation will be to extend the belt back to the driveshaft tunnel bar that I have described under seat belts below and cut a hole in the seat for the belt to come up snugly against your privates to attach to the seat belts.
Seat Belts:
Seat belts should be installed so that as you view the driver from the side, the belts go down to their mounting position at a 45* angle. As viewed from the rear, the belts should be the width of the driver's body and parallel with the centerline of the car. The best way I have found to mount the seat belts is to install a bar across the car between the left and right sides of the "B" bar, or main hoop with a whoopee in it for the driveshaft tunnel. 1 1/4" x 0.125" mild steel or 0.083" CM should do the trick.
Shoulder Belts:
The anchor for the shoulder belts should be from exactly even with the driver's shoulders to a point no lower than 4" below the driver's shoulders. In no case can the belts be mounted higher than the driver's shoulders. (Think about the car on its lid and the driver "falling up" into the belts and bumping his noggin). The place to mount these is to the crossbar that goes between the left and right sides of the "B" bar. This crossbar forms an intersection with the side bar at a point about halfway up the "B" bar. Its placement is determined with the driver sitting in driving position, then installing the bar according to the height of the driver's shoulders. The belts should go from the driver's shoulders back to the crossbar parallel with the centerline of the car.
Here is a visual to go along with what Richard said.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL160.../233914535.jpg
Yea...........what they ^^ said..........:D
thanks for the clarification tech, ive went and picked up the grade 8 bolts yesterday man o man have they gotten expensive :LOL:
I just bought 25 1.250 x 3/8 grade 8 at Fastenall 25 for $10.00 I don't think thats bad at allQuote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
these were 1.39 each!
My Fastenal rep comes around every other Wednesday and restocks me... I get all my grade 8, stainless steel, electrical goodies, drill bits, and tape. Sometimes the invoice is really scary, especially if I forget to bill out the hardware I use on customer's cars!!!! I sure do like the service, though. I hate having to leave the shop and go get stuff....especially on days like today with another 6" of snow!!!!! Got to someday get the good software program that would automatically load all the prices on the invoice.....
Dave, we used to add 2% to every bill to cover shop supplies. This included hardware used such as bolts, nuts, washers, roll pins, cotter pins, tie wraps, etc., etc. The customers groused about it for a while, but when they realized that we were actually using the parts on their vehicles and not gouging them, they settled down. We explained to them that the mechanic could just walk over and help himself to get the job going and didn't have to settle down at a table on the customer's time to look up part numbers, write them down, take the requistion to parts and wait for it to be filled, yada, yada, ad nauseum.