75 vega project, bone stock.

I finally got my Vega project! It came with no motor and trans , hood ,or heater unit, besides that its all there. It has some areas of surface rust on the body but the floor is all solid with the exception of the spare tire area and passenger foot well. The spare tire area has surface rust but not swiss cheese, a couple more years sitting and it would of been. I started to pull all the entirior last night and the floor is solid no major rust in the high stress areas. I pulled all the stock insulation out and found nothing has been CUT or repaired ,it seems to have never seen a major wreck or some idiot with a torch:LOL: Ok now that the easy part is over ,getting the car, now for the next step.

Now my problem and question is , what set up could I run? I am planning to run 600 horses on nitrous in the 8th mile. Just building a full tube chassis looks like a great plan and leaves plenty of room for upgrades in power and other areas. But I would also like to get it on the track asap and play with it safely.What do you guys think?

I am looking to build some thing like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5BwW6VwIbo .

I have been reading the rules for ORSCA outlaw 10.5 classes and it looks like this will be a quicker route to take to put it on the track. Any one have any experience with stock or backhalf vegas?

They were the rage many years ago, I built a few of them back in the late 70's, early 80's... Everybody and their brother used to build headers and mounts for them, the rear was usually either ladder bars or a 4 link with a 12 point cage hooking everything together.... Hooker might still list some headers for them, I think I'd go with a front and mid engine plates for hanging the engine.

i'm with dave on this one. i have had 3 vegas two of them were wagons. you need to put real brakes on it and make dam sure you ty the whole car togather with cage. i had a small block 414cid power glide and a 9" in one of the wagons. it was ladder bar rear and a front end kit from one of the chassis shops can't remember which one. car ran 8.9 on motor with a 33x10.5w tire.

ive had 2 V8 vegas in my days both backhalved. they make kits for the whole deal. crossmembers, backhalf sections, or full tube, if you go backhalf you will need to purchase a special oil pan for cross member clearance. and also fenderwell headers, hooker makes a nice fitting kit, the stuff is high priced but then again what isnt these days. also it needs a manual steering box for what you want. to build one from that state is a long haul, but i always loved those little vegas.

I have been reading up on classes and confused on where would be a good place to start. Theres is another site that offer a Don Hardy v8 conversion kit for 500 dollars. It comes with headers and all hardware to mount ,trans cross member ,and some other stuff ,but no engine mounts. They also sell a kit the beef up you front brakes by using ball joint spacers (65 dollars ) that will let you use s-10 spindles, rotors ,etc , they claim certain years of master cylinders bolt on also. 600 horses seems to be affordable for me and I am expecting a 8-10-12 point cage. I would rather put in a 12 point for max strength and safety and go from there but dont want it to be overkill. Most classes though that I have been looking for call rear stock suspension only, the top class that allows for any rear suspenion is pretty much dominated by 50 thousand dollar power plants:whacked: . So I dont know what to do about the rear??? This is not a 100 thousand dollar racing project just some thing to get the family out on the track on some weekends. Any advice is appreciated.

theres a guy here who ran 11's on a vega rearend, used all auburn guts and aftermarket axles. im told s-10 axles work also

Did he run 11's with the stock suspension or just the vega rear end and upgraded susp. Looking under the car its a stock 4 link but looks like it would have a hard time handling 300 hp. I guess I could just add stronger arms(adjustable) and a spool. Might be able to handle 400 horses, maybe

I am still trying to decide which way to go with the car. I dont want to screw it up and just start cutting and adding. I want to get it on the track and start having fun but also leave room to grow and learn. At this time I have a 350, power glide, 250 shot nitrous system, racing shifter, and vdo gauges. This stuff was left from another project I had a few years ago. I am still undecided on cubic inch open really to any small block that will work best in a light car and on the 8th mile. If you guys have a opinions on class or the set up of the car i would like to hear your ideas.

nobody here respects 302's but they do wind up nicley youd have to gear the hell out of it for the 1/8th though. like 5:30's or something

Wadda ya mean NOBODY? You need to rethink the reads of past posts. If they didn't run worth a crap, the factory wouldn't have messed with them. Let alone a boat load of racers who still run them.

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

nobody here respects 302's but they do wind up nicley youd have to gear the hell out of it for the 1/8th though. like 5:30's or something

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I think them 302's are great!!!! Are you going to run a Windsor or a Boss 302, Scooter?????

none i guess they are considered garbage by one and all, hell with it all

No I was thinking of using a small cubic inch engine thinking that maybe the shorter strokes will help it wind up quickly for the 1/8 mile. I just havent had a chance to research it thoroughly. 283,327 might work in a light car on the 1/8 mile. Like I have said though I havent had a chance to really look into it, but by comments I have read here all ready it seems everyone thinks they are a waste, dont know??

Hey... you just need to shoe-horn a big block in there :D ... sure it costs you a few pounds but you can wind a 427 to 8000 easy (or a 572 or even ~650+ can be made to turn the revs not as easy $$$)....

327 or even 350 probably more practical for high revs but you'll get the tq with the big motors...

Sounds like a fun project... I know a few guys at our track that run the Vegas. They're great cars... I'll keep an eye out next weekend to see how they have the rears set up but I don't think we have any running faster than mid 10's in the 1/4 (most are running 11s-13s)

I run a 76 Monza . 406 with a glide and a 9". Best ET so far is 10.35 I can send some pics if you are interested.

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Originally Posted by Pappy1

I run a 76 Monza . 406 with a glide and a 9". Best ET so far is 10.35 I can send some pics if you are interested.

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Ya ,I would like that, I need ideas to figure out the best route to take with the set up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skids72

Hey... you just need to shoe-horn a big block in there :D ... sure it costs you a few pounds but you can wind a 427 to 8000 easy (or a 572 or even ~650+ can be made to turn the revs not as easy $$$)....

327 or even 350 probably more practical for high revs but you'll get the tq with the big motors...

Sounds like a fun project... I know a few guys at our track that run the Vegas. They're great cars... I'll keep an eye out next weekend to see how they have the rears set up but I don't think we have any running faster than mid 10's in the 1/4 (most are running 11s-13s)

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Really , like this guy. Its a monza but pretty much the same. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2035660 This guy moved suspension components in a couple inches and uses a 10 tire, it looks good.

PM sent to you

This car is not mine but the owner is useing the srock front and rear set up. Looks like its working.
I have pretty much all the same setup. 406 edelbrock heads, 170 shot plate system, th350 3800 stall, 12 bolt with gm posi and 3.73, 26x8.5 MT's, I have a sway bar, airbags in both springs run them both at 25psi. The car leaves extremely hard 1.47 60ft times. It still has the stock upper and lower control arms that have been boxed. The only reason I put the bags in was cause the car was squatting so hard that the pinnion was hitting the floor board. It has went as fast as 6.79 @ 102 in the 8th. I have alot of passes on the car with all the stock suspension and have dialed it down pretty good. The car is in the garage right now, I took it apart to freshen it up and put a bigger solid roller cam in it. If you need any info feel free to ask, I can point you in direction that I should have taken when I first started building the car. Ill post some pictures of the car.


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ronalaunch.jpg

anyone contemplated a vega gasser :-?

does anyone know the width of a 400 pontiac? the outside dimensions? biggers or small then a bbc?

I am looking into the true street class which seems like a good route to start. Any opinions with the vega and this class ,I would like to hear. Thanks

True Street Rules


Chassis

1. Stock front frame rails (must be in stock location)
2. Aftermarket control arms and bushings ok as long as they bolt in stock locations.
3. Rack and Pinion allowed
4. All replacement parts must be in stock location
5. No replacement part may be permanently attached to the chassis
6. K-Members allowed (late model mustangs, Camaro's and Firebirds)
7. K-Members must feature stock attachment locations
8. Bolt in coil-overs allowed in front only, as long as they mount in stock location, no rear coil-overs.
9. Aftermarket bolt in sub frames not allowed. Sub-frame connectors okay.
10. Cross Members may be notched for oil pan clearance
11. Bolt on Traction devices only, no aftermarket 4-links
12. NO Ladder Bars
13. Suspension components must be attached to frame rails
14. Factory or After market type anti-sway bars allowed
15. NO Wheelie bars
16. Engine must be in stock location with stock style mounts, NO MOTOR PLATES
17. No aftermarket wings, only OEM stock spoilers/wings.
18. Rear shocks may be moved for tire clearance
19. Rear shocks must remain stock style
20. No traction compound spraying devices allowed.
21. A single aftermarket torque arm is allowed but not in conjunction with Caltrac or Caltrac type devices. Floaters not allowed on leaf spring cars. Torque arm must not be capable of changing/altering pinion angle. Brackets can be welded in place for mounting.
22. Aftermarket strut is allowed but must follow the following guidelines:
Full on race strut prohibited ( ie. Lamb or equivalent type )
Bolt in stock location with the exception of aftermarket K-Member
Strut must be comparable to QA1 or Strange style (adjustable)
Struts that changes caster and camber are prohibited


Body

1. Stock Firewall must be in stock location
2. Unaltered floor pan. May be altered for thru the floor sub-frame connectors, etc.
3. NO body alterations (must have front and rear bumpers
4. Headlights, Taillights must be in working order
5. Fiberglass Limited to Hood
6. Forward mounted hood scoops prohibited unless OEM equipped
7. Drilling/cutting holes in hood for air inlet prohibited
8. Mini tubs allowed


Interior


1. Two Front Seats
2. Driver's seat must be mounted in front of the door jamb
3. Full Interior (carpet, dash, stock door panels)
4. No Lexan (must have factory glass and windows)
5. Back seat not required, seat area must be carpeted.


Tires

1. Mickey Thompson 28x11.5x15 ET Street tire only


Power Adders


1. Only one power adder
2. Only one pressurized n2o bottle in car. Push systems are prohibited.
3. Max 76 MM turbo (air to air intercooler) Measurement will be a 1/16th of an inch from the compressor wheel.
4. NO Roots type superchargers
5. N2O limited to a Plate type system with one n2o solenoid, one fuel solenoid and one purge solenoid. Plate can only have one nitrous entry point and one fuel entry point.
6. Purge has to exit engine compartment.
7. All Cars must run Gasoline (no alcohol or methanol)
8. Progressive nitrous controllers and data recorders allowed.
9. Maximum F1R or D1R super charger


Engines

1. NO sheet metal intakes
2. Single Carburetors, maximum 4150 series
3. Dry Sumps not allowed
4. EFI 90 MM throttle body limit on nitrous assisted cars. 80 MM limit on turbo cars. Horizontal throttle body limited to 4150 style with 1000 CFM maximum
5. No aftermarket big block Chevy tall deck, or aftermarket big block Fords allowed
6. Mid plates allowed.
7. LS1 motors must have stock OEM LS1 heads. Carb intakes allowed.
8. Hybrid cars are allowed with one execption. LSx engines can only be used in a chassis in which they were available OEM.


Exhaust


1. Mufflers Required
2. NO insert or collector type mufflers
3. Mufflers are required to extend past the mid point of the drivers section


Weight Breaks

1. 3400 lbs. Base weight2. 300 lb deduction for OEM cast iron small blocks
2. 200 lb deduction for aftermarket small blocks
3. 100 lb deduction for small block turbo/supercharger includes LS1.
4. Aftermarket GM Big Blocks, GM Big Block Bowtie and GM Gen VI blocks and Ford Big Blocks 3400 lbs.
5. 200 lb deduction for LS1 motors - except turbcharged entries.
6. 100 lb addition for turbo or super charged big blocks.
7. 100 lb deduction for OEM 454, 427 and 396 BBC blocks.
8. SBC's using raised runner ProAction 23* heads / stock block - 3200lb.
9. SBC's using raised runner ProAction 23* heads / aftermarket block - 3300lb.
10. Any car winning 3 races in a single season will receive +100 lb. weight penalty throughout the remainder of the season


Heads


1.
Billet or fabricated heads prohibited
2.
Internal port areas of cylinder heads may be welded or epoxied for repairing, but heads must maintain standard "as produced" valve layout design, valve cant, and valve spacing. (no substituting canted valve for inline head, etc.).
3.
Cylinder heads must retain OEM style port/valve configurations and must be a massed produced type head readily available. One-off or custom made cylinder heads prohibited. Must maintain conventional/stock style valve angles.
4.
No Big Chief, Big Chief style,18* BBC, SB2 or Yates style heads allowed.
5.
No 18* heads allowed except for LS1 stock valve angle heads.
6.
Porting allowed.
7.
If you are not sure if a particular head is allowed, contact TTT5 for clarification.
8.
Click here for approved head list.



Rules » True Street

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This is a quote of what the guys in my area are running in this class. Any idea what engine combo would be compititive in the vega?

I guess you can't use Trans dapt/Hooker front mounts because they are more Engine plate then stock style mounts. Are V8 Vegas allowed in that class? Seems like cheating. :confused:

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Originally Posted by djv8ga

I guess you can't use Trans dapt/Hooker front mounts because they are more Engine plate then stock style mounts. Are V8 Vegas allowed in that class? Seems like cheating. :confused:

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They would probably allow a Vega, problem would be getting the Vega suspension to hook hard enough to keep up with the late model Mustangs and Camaro's with their much improved suspension.... IMO it's going to take a lot of laps and a lot of experience to be competitive, but a low buck Vega with a big block and a glide makes one heck of a good bracket car....

It's a fun class, but not a cheap or easy class to be competitive in. There's enough limitations on engines that it comes down to getting the chassis to hook hard and consistently.... We tried it one year, then went back to Super Gas (9.90 class), liked it a lot more and could run a lot better components to keep the car dialed in. The one thing I don't like about the class is all the weight breaks for this and that combination.

I don't see any way you can mini tub a Vega and keep the stock lower control arm mounting locations. My lower rear end control arm mounts are welded to the Moser housing ends and I can't get anywhere close to that much tire under mine. The wheel would hit the control arm.