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You guys see any draw backs that I dont to going this route??? Doing a backhalf and adding sub connectors is a lot of work and since I am going that far....... What racing class' would this classify as?
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/550newchassis.jpg
Hey Big,
For what it's worth, if you do decide to go the full chassis route think seriously about going front struts instead of a-arms. I ran two different strut chassis cars and a whole bunch of a-arms and the ease of chassis tuning, the weight savings, and the extra header clearance is well worth what little extra expense there is.
John
The strut setup is also much lighter. The chassis would be good in the "Super" classes, either Super Gas or Super Comp. Similar to what we run, except we have ladder bars instead of 4 link, been running Super Gas with one since '97 and it's still competitive.
Are their any vendors that are highly recommended? I found this one in Jegs and the price is right.They have all the front and rear suspension that are already matched for the chassis, which I think might be they way to go for a "beginner". With all the work of adding a 10-12 cage and rear suspension, then trying to modify the front suspension and the sub connectors. I think it would be just as simple to go this route?????
Big,
You are absolutley right.
Let them do all of the engineering.
And you will soon see that it is cheaper in the long run too.
John
Hey Dave ,or any one else ,any tips on getting this thing going, since you been there. Will it being welded with mig work or does it have to be tigged. I am trying to order a Nhra rule book.... I see I will have to use a diaper . Found why I was having a hard time finding, 2007 Rulebooks are no longer available. 2008 Rulebooks will be available in December.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
so you are building an all out race car for occasional usage? that dont make sense :LOL:
Ive got a little experience with these and a lot depends on what you want to use the car for et and rules wise. For the super classes a chassis kit is the way to go. I use chassisworks stuff but they are the highest priced and what I feel is the best, most user freindly build for the do it yourselfer. If your looking to build a 9.90 car and doing it yourself get a mild steel kit that you can mig weld. Not knowing your skill level its hard to say but generally a first time/from scratch build will be much easier/forgiving with a steel kit versus a chrome moly. On the strut thing I thing they are somewhat overrated for that speed but the header clearance alone makes them worth getting if you can find some used ones on the cheap.
As for the back half approach it can be done but take it from me, again for ME it sucks!!!! Im doing it on my 67 nova street strip and almost hate it. Ive been a fabricator for thirty years tinkering with stock car and drag chassis along the way and love that clean, new tubing kind of work but this is the farthest ive gone having to integrate stock sheet metal into fabricated tubing.sheet and it sucks. Cars are so friggin out of square from the factory that most wouldnt believe it and then take into account that midevil process of trying to remove undercoating!!!!!!!!!!! This will be my last chop job, next project will be a FED nostalgia dragster that I will build from scratch.
Cut the skin off the vega and throw the rest away.
No I just dont have the time to dedicate 110% into the class. Thats what I meant.Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
Big-T buy a chassis kit,It will be easer to get through (TEC-INSPECTION)and Certified by a TEC-INSPECTOR,Rather than building from scratch.A mig is ok for mild steel/All 4130Chromoly tube must be (TIG-WELDED)
Depends on what class you are running as to materials used and weld method. I use tig on most of my chassis stuff, stronger and looks better plus I like moly tubing for it's strength and light weight. It's more expensive, but like I said earlier we've been running the Comet for 10 seasons of Super Gas and still no problems. Over the winter all it will get is a check over, thorough cleaning, and a bit of paint touch up and it's ready for another year. Doesn't really matter what you put in the car for engine and drivetrain, if it's not working through a good solid well designed chassis you're just throwing your money away. If you don't have the time or all the equipment to build it, you'd probably be money ahead buying a built chassis and doing the bolt on pieces yourself. By the time you build a jig, buy a tig, and invest all the time and make the usual mistakes, a done frame is a good deal!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
PS, as for the chassis you pictured, a few extra bucks for a strut front is money well spent!!!! Way less unsprung weight and lots of extra room for headers and everything else.
Ok, some more funny questions.... Is this streetable with the front end shown above and with poly rod end on the four link? From what I know I can use my stock upper and lower control arms and use a rack and pinion setup (budget). I figure if one day I decide to go struts for the strip I can easily add it later.It will be my daily driver:whacked: , no just kidding, would like to maybe cruize it to the local drive in burger joint some day.
Whats the expected cost of getting done, minus engine and trans, from those that have done it? No fancy parts just basic whats needed. Rear would be a regular 9", all that can be upgraded later.
This is not my pic I got it off the web of basic kit.(This guy is doing a pro touring chevete , turbo charge!!!) And thanks for any help, I am trying to get as much info before I jump in.
HMM lets see.....
It would be streetable--well, it depends on where you are and the cops definition of streetable. Did you check with Art Morrison? They offer both a street or race front strut, think they're around $1200 for the strut kit but would be less if purchased as an option on their chassis. A bit more money up front, but IMO well worth it. I don't like the stock type fronts on a drag car, too much forward weight already.
As for the cost, depends so much on all the little things and how much work you're going to do yourself. The picture you post of the dude laying all his stuff on the floor looks kewl, but I sure hope he's not going to build it there!!!! To build a straight and square chassis you should have a chassis table, or at a minimum some heavy duty jig fixtures to hold everything securely. I've put them together from your basic chassis and suspension attachment brackets starting at about $3500 to complete rolling chassis ready to bolt on the body exceeding $25,000. Like I said, lots of variables......
A-arms are ok but not stock a-arms. If you go with a full chassis you need to step up to some lighter tubular arms. Struts are better but its not like the arms wont work especially on a short wb car like a vega. streetable? Heres where things get more expensive. You here about all the ten second 'street' cars around. Well I know a guy with one, it will run sub 10 second passes on motor with nothing more than bolting on slicks. On the street the thing actually rides nice but he had to spend a MINT to get it that way. Lots of things a street car needs that a race car doesnt and that translates to weight which in turn needs more power to go fast which in turn takes more money. A full chassis/tin interior race car will go down the road but not with any comfort. Better get some earplugs too, tin interiors rattle like hell over potholes. You either need to go mild street/strip with driveability or build a race car. Ive got it in my head that I can build a footbrake 10 second flat race car from scratch for ten grand! Some may not believe but with what I can do myself (everything) and scrounging parts and a little brain melt i know it can be done. I was doing it with a 40 dodge coupe until I got into my nova project.