Traction Action

I looked at the aftermarket trailing arms on Summit Racing and after looking at the prices I need to change my underwear now.

I can just change the bushings, they seem to have some selection. Question is, do I put in solid ones or urathane bushings? I still hafta drive the cat to work as it's still our only ride. But solid ones may be as good as traction bars.

I bought a cheap wire feed flux welder at Harbor Freight. But i'm not sure if I can weld on that thick metal. If so I can box my own arms and save a few bucks we don't have anymore.

How about I cradle solid rods in the pockets and hose clamp them ... nawww guess not.

Since it is still the daily driver, do the urethane. Boxing the arms should be a good project to practice on. Metal is thick enough to get good penetration even with a small welder. Just practice on some similar thickness material BEFORE you do it for real. Once you're confident that you can run a decent bead, go for it!

Yeah, the flux welder seems to be a good deal, I ddi my quarter fenders with one similar.Well, I suppose i'll find out soon if I can weld a decent bead cause i'm going for it!

Well, the shocks came Yay! Now I got some new stickers to put on the car.

However, when I opened the box the shock said "Drag racing only Not for street use." Now, how am I suppose to get to work if I can't use the car? Does it mean the shocks will blow up on the street? my mechanical recurve kit said the same thing and it's produced no adverse effects. It looks to me like a plain old fashioned shock. Can someone advise me on this before I get em greasy and can't return them?

Also, in the event I can street strip em anyway, what adjustment should I use?

R=50/50
F=40/60
XF=30/70

The first numbers are is compression, How much the shock drops, Of course the second is extension, how much the shock returns. At the beginning of the event I have terrible wheel hop. After that the tires slip all night.

I don't have front shocks yet. They are just replacement gas shocks I bought. I don't know it's ratio.

Also, I'm changing the rear coil springs on the rear to a variable rate "Load Carrying" spring that gets stiffer as the car rear drops. That's so I can pull trailers if I had one. This takes the place of the air shocks i'm taking off. I might even block up the springs with spacers as well. I donnou, I want enough room to put the Mickey Thomsons in I don't have yet.

Well, i'm not going to do anything until I know something. But I must be race ready by Saturday if i'm gonna be in a series this year.

PS, Hey, I can take out my back seat for racing now! no tools required just lift em out like a dead pizza! They interlock and are perfectly safe for passenger use. It's the best of both worlds. I can have em in for accidents or kids are be accident free for racing. I thought I was a genius for figuring this one up but who am I kidding? You can take seats out of minivans too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Good Wrench

Well, the shocks came Yay! Now I got some new stickers to put on the car.

However, when I opened the box the shock said "Drag racing only Not for street use." Now, how am I suppose to get to work if I can't use the car? Does it mean the shocks will blow up on the street? my mechanical recurve kit said the same thing and it's produced no adverse effects. It looks to me like a plain old fashioned shock. Can someone advise me on this before I get em greasy and can't return them?

Also, in the event I can street strip em anyway, what adjustment should I use?

R=50/50
F=40/60
XF=30/70

The first numbers are is compression, How much the shock drops, Of course the second is extension, how much the shock returns. At the beginning of the event I have terrible wheel hop. After that the tires slip all night. .

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Sounds like the usual "disclaimer" stuff to me as they are giving you 3 different settings! The 50/50 should be for street use, the others for the track. DON'T forget to reset them when changing the cars use! Of course, ymmy, imho, fwiw, yada yad yada.. :LOL:

I think I figured out why those drag shocks ain't for the street. I just realized that they have no dust covers,so the piston rod is exposed to the elements. Well, I guess I hafta WD-40 it on occasion. After my butcher job on the inside the car FEELS lighter even Mrs GW thinks so.

Them trailing arms don't need replacing. There's reinforcement halfway up the bottom ones for that sway bar they have in. Sooo, just bushings I guess.

So, I guess i'll find out Saturday if I did right.