Ohyeah, as for the foot feed the speed shop guy says to put a piece of 2 by 4 under the gas pedal. Think it'll work? Really i'm a conservative driver. People pass me on the freeway all the time.
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Ohyeah, as for the foot feed the speed shop guy says to put a piece of 2 by 4 under the gas pedal. Think it'll work? Really i'm a conservative driver. People pass me on the freeway all the time.
I like PCV systems when they're functioning correctly the motor stays a lot cleaner. Usually the valve covers have a baffle to prevent (minimize) the oil from being sucked into the PCV system. However, if the PCV is sucking oil, a oil separator maybe needed.
I'm a little suspicious of the head gasket at #1 & 3, I would do another compression test. I know it's running good right now, but if the head gasket is leaking it is just a matter of time before it mucks up this carb and your right back where you were.
But at the very least, pull these plugs and see if they're fowling again.
Though, I'd hate to see you ruin another carb for the lack of a compression test to find a bad head gasket. A leak down test would be in order too in my opinion. It would show the leakage between the cylinders that to the untrained eye may not show up well with a compression test.
The pvc side has the oil separator but the breather side does not. I took that one off because for one thing it was being hit by a rocker arm and I couldn't pass oil down it.
I just pulled off plugs 1 and 3 1 is fouled but 3 seems to be normal. As soom as I can get Mrs Goodwrench to get her clothes on I'll see if 1 is firing at all.
I can do a static compression test but I can't do a leakdown.
Should I thin out the oil some more?
Well, plug 1 is firing anyway. Next is compression test.
Carb has a slight discoloration toward the brown side but it doesen't wipe off. Not soot I guess. Edelbrock is black with soot.
No baffle under oil cap------1 & 3 get oil fouled-----maybe valve seals/guides bad and your pouring oil directly into cylinders??
I agree that low compression on 2 adjaction cylinders sometimes indicates leaking head gasket, but also on engines with the intake having 2 ports side by side that can also mean(especially on aftermarket) bad seal around those two ports plus in this case it also is running lean/whiscling?
Leaky solenoids/fittings /plates on nitous systems is quite common and is probably the only way you could kill the milage this much-unless he is mixing mpg(miles per gallon ) with Kpl(kilo per liter)
The header to head is just one of several places for an exhaust leak-------just think about how many joints are fabbed and welded and then installed with ill fitting expansion joints, flex joints, etc-
How tight are the clearances in the motor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Wrench
If it's a new build with modern tight clearances, I prefer 5-30 or 10-30. If it's a new build with older standard clearances, I prefer 10-30 or 10-40 and 15-50. If it's got some miles on it, I prefer 20-40 or 20-50.
With multi viscosity oils, the first weight# is the viscosity COLD, the second HOT. In other words in your case with 20-50, at cold start the oil viscosity is 20 weight and at it's higher operating temperatures no more than 50 weight. This can vary a little depending on the temperatures the manufacturer designed into the oil viscosities.
Oh-by the way----if number 1 is fouled--------your timing light just might not work-try it off of number 6 cylinder
How does the plug LOOK compared to other plugs? Is it the same color as compared to a couple of plugs from the other bank (2,4,6,8)? Or it it darker burnt, oily or discolored in another way? We ain't there, you got to be our eyes, so explain it well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Wrench
We are looking for changes in cylinder 1 & 2 plugs compared to the others. Specifically any kind of fowling in or around the porcelain and tip.
This is a great TIP guys, as most inductance fed lights will not read correctly if the plug circuit is fowled (spark plug completes the circuit).Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Hiya,
I put the engine together in 1990 but I changed crank twice (With new bearings) and cam 3x. New bearings when I first put it together.
No 1 plug does fire. At least out of the block. Spark is blue.
Compression on no 1 is 138
Compression on no 3 is 140.
I checked twice.
I got those heads just a couple years ago Guides and seals should be good Well, they should.
I quit watching the odometer a few years back. With the rear gears the speedo isn't correct anymore.
All other plugs had a brownish tint at the end. except for one and 3 which had an oil film ond not working. If I cleaned the oil off they would appear new. No discoloration of porcelin at all on any plugs externally. Insde some slight cooked oil buildup. 2468 no oil buildup at all.
I know my timing light doesen't work I tried it on all the wires. If I jiggle the pickp wire it's work momentarily. Not long enough to get a reading.
And there lays the problem. If the other cylinders are 165 as you said in your earlier post, then you have a blown head gasket between #1 & #3 cylinders. Remove the head, change the gasket, button it up and be done. And be sure to re-torqe the heads this time around...Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Wrench
Ohyeah, Soot in the carb but not on the plugs with the Edelbrock.
I didn't check the other cylinders, just 1 and 3. I can check the rest except for no 6 which is impossible with the header on.
I did the last compression test with the old heads on. I never checked it with the new heads.
When I asked for a compression test yesterday (or day before) you posted 160-165 all cylinders? If these numbers are correct, then there's a problem. If you did not give correct numbers, then do the test on all so we can compare them accurately.Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Wrench
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Wrench
REALLY, come on guys don't make this so hard to do.....
Mr. Good Wrench,
No disrespect intended, but Im gonna tell you the same thing I have told many before. On any job no matter what you are doing, to go fast at it you must first SLOW down. In other words, don't skip around all over trying to get a bunch of easy things done. Rather, be thorough, methodical and complete, It may take a little longer, but you won't miss nearly as much. And, think of the time you'll save if you're NOT doing it over and over....
Checked the fuel milage ------in 1990 I could go 40 miles on $5.00-Nowadays, I can only go 12--------???????????
was that a yellow brick road in the pics????????
Look-heres a path for you to go down--------pull the intake so you can check the gasket on ports 1 and 3-if its leaking you will foul plugs and have excessive blow by that will soot up the carb thru the pcv line. Check and/or replace the pcv valve. Remove the nitous plat and do new gaskets. If you are mixing gaskets for spread bore carbs/manifold and square bore carbs/manifolds you WILL have a severe vacume leak because of overlapping holes( wish I had some spreadbore gasket to pic)
See if you can wiggle the valve stem any indicating wiped guides,
Before dismantling anything , start and run with valve covers removed and see if ALL the pushrods are SPINNING---spin,stop,spin,stop-------
Pull distributor and bench check including phasing of the rotor to cap for normal and full advance -drill holes in old cap near lugs-------
Yea-100 posts--------
Checked compression on 5 and 7 140 139.
Sprayed the intake seam with wd40 No leaks no whistle.
Started engine. Fires right up, no lope, no blowby.
a constant 19 inches of vacuum at 950 rpm. Stays the same at 650 rpm.
oil pressure is 50 at 950 rpm.
Checked pvc valve. seems to work.
little puffs of h20 out the exhaust both sides. No hydrocarbon smell at all now.
Vacuum steady no jumping around.
Will go and buy another timing light,
Will pull off valve covers and look at the spins. Also will see if oil is reaching the top.
Sombody did mention holes in the cap near the lugs. Pressure buildup in the cap?
we want compression of 1 and 3 plus the other side also while your at it---
the intake leak I'm talking about is the under side in the valley-exposed to oil which can be easily pulled into clylinders
Monday i'm pulling the intake off. If I don't see anything i'll pull the head. There's got to be a problem somewhere there.
With old heads 165psi, new heads 140psi?????
My post about holes in the cap are for visual confirmation of the phasing of the rotor lug to the terminals in the distributor cap.
And will never be found by spraying a combustible product onto the outside of the motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
.
Internal (underside) intake manifold vacuum leaks can usually be verified by sealing the valve cover breather port (tape) on one valve cover and feeling for vacuum at the other valve cover port (usually where the PCV is located), lightly place finger over the open hole while the motor is idling. Any pull or vacuum felt is usually from the leak on the underside of the manifold.
Unless you're in the frozen north 20-50 is never too thick i.m.h.o.Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Wrench