How to fix carb

the Holley 1940 1bbl on my '67 Falcon 200 I6 does not work right at all. me and my dad belive the needle valve is bad. if the car is started, somrtimes it will start to go very rich, so rich that gas goes onto the manifold from a open vac port, and it runs like crap, if the needle valve is tapped ( right behind fuel filter ) it clears right up, thought it would stay clear but we took it for a drive, and it starts to go back to the crappy state, but if the throttle is blipped in neutral, it will clear up. any idea's on what to do?

also, sometimes if the car is started, in park, the car goes in reverse, but the indicator still says park, and it takes pushing the lever above park and then letting it slide back in park, to get it to go in park, any idea's on this? and also, if the brakes are laid on hard, the car will stall, what is wrong, do I have a bad torque converter?

You may have a float with a hole in it that's sunk a bit.

You could also have a nitrocellulose float that's fuel sogged and it sits lower in the fuel thereby raising the float level.
(Common in early Pinto's with their 2 bbl Holley carbs.)

And . . . like dad says the needle valve could be bad.


As far as the start in park and dropping into reverse, the shift linkage could be mis-adjusted.

Coming to a rapid stop with a high float level will many times stall the engine.

thanks for the help :). how do I ajust the shift linkage? it's an Early C4, Ford called them cruisomatics.

I go along with the possible bad float and if the carb hasn't been rebuilt lately it's probably full of varnish. A good rebuild will cure your problem.
The shift problem could be that the neutral saety switch is out of adjustment. It's located near the end of the steering column and held on to column by two screws.

only thing that leads me to belive that the needle is bad, is the fact that If I tap on where the needle is, with a wrench, and someone keeping the engine running ( won't idle when it acts up ) it will go away almost instantly.

Give it a good cleaning and a carb kit. A new needle and seat is included with the kit. Check the float as others have said.

Thanks for the help guy's. I'm gonna buy the carb kit and check the float, I'll put the car up on ramps tomorrow and check out all the tranny stuff, see what needs ajusted, so I can get the shift problem fixed.

Above all, make sure you leave it the solvent long enough to clean all of the passages and then blow it out with air. And be sure to wear some eye protection and gloves.

Ok, I ordered the carb kit, my mom's gonna pick it up on her way back from the vetranarian today. I checked all the shift linkage and it all seems in order, and tight, neutral safty switch, is in the same position in park and in neutral. I noticed that the shift indicator, pointer is just right of P, and in all other gears, is right on the letter, how do I reallign this? I think this is the problem.

The pointer itself is probably just run off of a small cable or maybe even just attached to your column shift. It isn't the part that is causing your problem. Have someone go inside the car and move the shifter from park to reverse. You should be inside the engine compartment looking at the shift arm where it connects to the shift rod that runs to the tranny. Watch it as it goes up and down.

This is simply a mechanical connection, and if the car shifter is in park, you want the arm on the tranny to also be all the way in park. Put the car up on GOOD jackstands, and slide under the car. Have the tires blocked so the car won't roll. CAR IS NOT RUNNING DURING THIS PHASE.

Remove the shift rod from the trans or the arm on the column shift, and take your hand and click the trans arm all the way into park (every trans hookup is different, so you will have to see how your shift rod comes out of the arm, usually via a circlip or cotter pin.

What you are doing is making sure the shifter is in park and the trans arm is also in park. Then you can spin the threaded end of the shift rod tighter or looser to make the rod just drop in. If you do that, the shifter is saying you are in park and so is the transmission.

Over time these parts wear a littlle, and you have to compensate for the slop by doing this adjustment procedure.

Don

Thanks. I just got done with putting a new E clip on the linkage because the old 1 broke.

just went out and looked at it. there is no threadded ajuster, it is just a linkage rod, connected at the shift arm, and on the transmission, attached with a snap ring to the trans arm and an E clip to the colum shift arm. the linkage rod is bent slightly tword the engine about 12" back from the colum end, but still pretty much straight, should I bend it straight to make the linkage longer?

if the carb you have is a fomoco..... good luck indeed on cleaning it and getting it to run right.... if its the carter then you'll be alright.... i tried rebuilding one of those fomocos 3 times and it wouldn't idle right.... took it to a carb shop and they just threw it in the trash and handed me a holley

Quote:

---

Originally posted by thesals
if the carb you have is a fomoco..... good luck indeed on cleaning it and getting it to run right.... if its the carter then you'll be alright.... i tried rebuilding one of those fomocos 3 times and it wouldn't idle right.... took it to a carb shop and they just threw it in the trash and handed me a holley

---

it's a 1909 Holley 1bbl:)

just went out and looked at it. there is no threadded ajuster, it is just a linkage rod, connected at the shift arm, and on the transmission, attached with a snap ring to the trans arm and an E clip to the colum shift arm. the linkage rod is bent slightly tword the engine about 12" back from the colum end, but still pretty much straight, should I bend it straight to make the linkage longer?


Matt: Without seeing what you are looking at it is real hard to advise what to do, but generally there is some way to adjust the length of this rod. But, anything is possible, automotivewise. Ford may have not put any adjustment in this one.

Anyway, what you want to do is make sure that when you have your cars shift lever all the way in park that it is truly pulling the lever on the trans ALL THE WAY INTO PARK. It sounds to me like, from age, or whatever, that the trans lever is ALMOST going into park, but not quite.

I think by lengthing the rod you are going the wrong way. I envision the rod needing to be slightly shorter, so that it pulls just a tad more.

Could be way off base on this one, but without actually climbing under the car with you, it is impossible to say what needs done. But I honestly feel your trans arm is just a little shy of getting all the way clicked into park.

Look for slop in the entire shift linkage setup as you move the shift lever, and see if something is worn out and not letting the action pull all the way it needs to go.

Don

the shifter arm is loose, but it seems to throw every other gear just fine. Anyway, I'll get pics tomorrow to show you what I got to work with. Thanks for the help.