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Hi guys, new member here. I've got a NOS Man-A-Fre 4 x 2bbl set-up that's never been on a car. 2 of the carbs are NOS and the other 2 are like new. Just wondering if these are worth a darn on the street. Just guessing they are hard to tune and better for a American Grafitti Milner clone coupe(I think that's what he ran). Also, anyone know a rough value for this if I were to decide to sell.
Not sure about Milner's coupe, but that was the setup on the California Kid.
Milner coupe/
Late '50's GM light truck, combination brake and clutch.
Denny: I am using one of these master cylinders on my '27, to operate the brakes and hydraulic clutch. It is from a circa 1966 Chevy 1/2 ton, and works like a charm. Yeah, I know, the portion for the brakes isn't a dual master cylinder, that is so much safer (in case one side goes out you have a backup) but it has been on there for 17 years, and the car is engineered around it, and it does work great.
When I resurrect the roadster I plan to put a brand new one on, same kind though. It is the one area I have sacrificed a little good judgement on, but I figure these worked for a zillion years on cars and trucks, so I just keep an eye on it. Besides, I run silicone brake fluid, and the components in the brake system seem to last much longer.And I have all stainless lines, so the chances of a line rupturing are lessened.
Here is how I installed it under the floor of the '27.
Don
PS, I just saw a Man a Fre go for stupid money on Ebay a while back. You've got a very desirable item there, especially with the nostalgia thing so hot now.
Don
Anyone with experience running one of these? Just wondering how hard they are to run on the street on a weekend warrior. Also, how much were you calling stupid money? Depending on how much that was may make up my mind for me what I plan to do with this.
I don't really remember, but I do recall commenting to myself that it was pricey, and not as complete or nice as what you describe.
One way to find out, put it on ebay with a super high reserve, like $ 3000.00, then let the traffic tell you where it will sell at.
Keep it. These are really cool intakes, and you won't see too many of them around, so you would be unique. Sometimes money isn't everything, cool is.
Don
That could probably be done with a balance beam setup, similar to some parts Tilton and Wilwood do. The one thing to be concerned about would be the volume/piston size of the clutch side, it may not put out enough to fill the wheel cylinders.Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
Soooo......you're saying Don is deadly?:LOL: :LOL: Can't say I'd disagree!:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
Hey !!! Pros have tried to kill me, I'm tough to kill.:LOL: :LOL:
Actually, relative to the bore sized question, I am using the clutch side for the brakes, and the brake side for the clutch. I turned the m/c around backwards. This thing stops on a dime, so I suspect the bores are the same.
Yeah, I know it isn't p/c to not use a dual m/c in todays world, but this is a '50 style rod, and I began it in the late '80's, when I was young and dumb. Now I'm just old and dumb.:D :D :D
The car hasn't moved for 5 years, so when I get around to the restoration I might consider something else, especially if I put in a C4 to replace the stick setup.
Thanks for the concern, and yes you guys are correct.
Dangerous Don
WOW!!!! Those brakes really must hold!!;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
If this is any help, I'm using '40 Ford front brakes and '68 Mercury Montego on the rear. I don't know how I hit it the first time, but the balance is right on.
Don
Hooter, if you decide to keep the manifold and run it, there is a synchronizing tool that makes it easy to dial in the carbs. Go to ebay and type in ...Uni-Syn..., there are about 7 of these units on there for auction today.
It's the same unit that was on my '62 pickup and it handled a 3100 lb pressure plate with no problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW