Ford 223 help

Does anyone run this in their rod?

Can anyone tell me how long this engine is? What tranies will work with it? I think it was common in the F100 pickups with an auto.

Thanks,
Z

Z, this is not a very popular motor in hot rod circles, but I'm sure there are some fellows out there using them.

They were used in pickups and cars from 1954 to 1964 and will bolt to the 3-speed manual, Ford-A-Matic 2-speed and Cruise-O-Matic 3-speed. Although I don't think they were ever bolted up at the factory, the 4-speed Toploader should bolt up too, I would think. Sorry, but I can't help you with the length of the motor.

If I'm wrong about any of this, I'm sure one of the nutcase Ford guys will come on and correct me. Just kidding guys, just kidding :whacked:

Ok I really want a Iline six. I fell in love with the strait six in my datson when I was in high school.

What are my options for my T bucket in the inline six catagorie?

thanks,
Z

Just stretch the frame, and you can put anything up front. Be sure to allow room for the fan and radiator.

Don

No problem. I think it would be very cool. Z, let me help you out a little here. Normally, when you are constructing a car from scratch, the frame if the last thing you construct. In other words, you would put all the components in their proper place and then use tubing main rails and crossmembers to connect everything together. The reason you see all these guys building the frame first is that it has been done so many times with a small block Chevy that everybody knows how long the frame needs to be to place all the components properly.

In your case, you are planning to use a non-conventional motor and I think that is great. But, what you will have to do is gather all your components together and place them where they will be with the car running, then begin building the frame to tie all of it together. Sit the body in place and chock it up, sit the motor in place and chock it up. Be sure and use all the components on the front of the motor that you will need, like the water pump, pulleys, belts, shroud, viscous fan drive and radiator. I know this sounds like a task, but it is the way I would do it and trust me, I've done this a few times. You can use 2 x4's and other wood scraps to fashion the mounts to hold everything in place.

You'll want to take a look at some other T's to see how the headlights mount in relation to the front tires and radiator, so you will know where to mount the front axle. In other words, if the radiator and/or headlights end up forward of the axle, the car looks dorky. Look at some T's and you'll see what I mean.

When mocking up the motor, leave at least 4" clearance between the bottom of the oil pan and the ground.

See, Don and I posted about the same thing at exactly the same time.

I am collecting parts now I need a place to work....

Z

post pics please, we're all anxious to see......:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oddcarout

I am collecting parts now I need a place to work....

Z

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The kitchen is a great place to build engines, and the living room is perfect for laying out a frame. Women love it when their man does this sort of stuff.:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Don

A Ford 200- 250 I6 are just a little longer than a SBF, if you wanted to maintain a wheelbase of about 100" which most with V8's are, this would be the way to go. If you wanted bigger, you could get a 300 Ford, there a lot longer but they make a lot more torque. A early Jeep 4.0L would work good with a carb manifold, you can stroke a 4.0 with a AMC 258 crankshaft, which makes it about 4.5L. If you wanted, you could use a Mopar Slant 6. they can make great HP numbers, both N/A and Forced induction, a stock 225 Slant 6 with a correctly sized turbocharger makes about 1hp per cubic inch running minnimal boost, and some built up slant 6's I'v seen turbocharged make upwards of 600 Hp. I'v seen slant 6's in a few hotrods.

Thanks Matt. Still working on the engine. I have a move in the works so it is on hold for a month, no where to store it.

Z