is this cam roller

xfi stroker cam by comp cams, which one is better.
1 is intake lift 0.579", exhaust lift 0.579", adv. intake duration 286 degrees, adv exhaust duration 300 degrees, grind# xfi 236hr-14

other is intake lift 0.608", exhaust lift is 0.608", adv. intake duration is 304 degrees, adv. exhaust duration is 314 degrees, grind# xfi 248hr-14

Project is a 435 stroker, if there is better let me know who it is made by.
this is my first hotrod motor so i am asking alot of questions. My dad always told me if ur going to do something do it right the first time!!!!!

You've posted a few questions in the last several days. Suppose we get to know you and what it is you want to do with this motor. If you would give us some information about yourself and the intended purpose, we could sure do a better job of advising you.

Is this motor going into the Mustang? Will the motor have to pass emissions? What kind of trans will you use? Will this be a daily driver or a Saturday Night Special that hardly ever gets driven normally. Will you drag race with the car? Street drags or drag strip?

In order to help you with a cam, we ABSOLUTELY MUST KNOW THE STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO OF THE MOTOR. If you don't know, then please say you don't know and we'll try to help you figure it out. Is this motor together yet or what. Is this just something you are sorting out in your mind right now and haven't bought any parts yet. If that is the case, PLEASE SAY SO. We'll still help you. All of us have daydreamed from time to time and put combinations together in our heads and that's o.k.

It is going in a 95 mustang for strip but i want to still run around my little podunk town on cruise night and be safe but majority is for drag. Transmission is going to be a c6 ssmonster (auto) but as far as the stuff on the motor i don't know squat. so all the help on what i need to do to make this 435 stroker run will be greatly appreciated. I live in Indiana so where i live.. they do not do emission testing so no emmissions.

i am sorting out in my head before i strat buying parts

O.K., let's get started. Will this motor be required to use pump gas?

i would like to keep it pump gas

carb?, throttle body?, tuned OEM EFI?, aftermarket injection? (whose)

well i would like to use holley carb with electric fuel pump with regulators

O.K. Before we can size the carb, we'll need to know the maximum rpm's the motor will see. Is this gonna be a no-holds barred effort that will cost $15000 to $25000?

yeah no holds barred

Well, we could get into a Callies crank, Carillo rods, etc., etc., but anyone able to afford some of that stuff would have an engine builder buyin' the parts. So, let's keep it to where anyone reading here could build the motor just by missing 10-12 months worth of house payments.

Speed-O-Motive has an affordable 435 kit featuring steel crank and rods and forged pistons.

Your job is to contact them via email and ask the rpm limit of the reciprocating assembly that is furnished with the 435 kit. Also ask if we should be using a stock or an aftermarket block to start with. Report back here.

Ok i sent them a email should hear back tommorrow (Monday)

Due to the amount of material we need to remove from the cylinders, we recommend an aftermarket block such as DART or WORLD. Rev limit would be determined by your valve train setup (rev kit, etc.), however we do not recommend going higher than 6,500 without a rev kit.

Good job Eric. O.K., we have the reciprocating assembly nailed down. I'm all for limiting the revs to 6,500 because then we can use a hydraulic roller cam. Now, let's choose a block.

Here's the World Product Ford Man O' War block. It can be had in several different deck heights.
http://www.worldcastings.com/mow_ford_block2.htm

And here's the Dart product. We'll have to discuss these later. I have an invitation to dinner.
http://www.dartheads.com/fordsb.aspx

would these work for this build.



$109.95
***100% NEW***

SMALL BLOCK FORD; 1.6 3/8" or 7/16" @ $109.95 per set!

All New FORD "StreetBeat " Rocker Arm Set with 7/16" OR 3/8" Studs....YOUR CHOICE!!
These Sets are Factory Boxed, NEW, Complete Sets with Locks!!
Street Application & Lite Racing recommended. NOT HARD CORE RACING.

These are all new, CNC machined, extruded 6061 T6 Aluminum roller rockers have a full needle bearing, fulcrum and roller tip to eliminate friction, which in turn equals more horsepower and longer valve train component life. These rockers have needle bearing trunions and roller tips which "free up" the rockers and could add as much as 25 more horsepower. They will fit all small block Chevy motors except Center Bolt valve cover applications. They come with the matching poly locks to lock them firmly in place. Don't miss out on these great "StreetBeat " rockers......a beauty of a set at an unbelievable price.

Clearanced for use with up to 1.625" springs, Tensil strength over 60,000 psi,body design withstands up to 750psi Valve Spring Loads,
Works in excess of 7,500 RPM





Attachment 16071

here is the add i seen on the rockershttp://www.racingjunk.com/post/72522...uot-ALUMI.html

Now, I get to teach you something else about buying hot rod parts.
THOSE ROCKERS DON'T COST ENOUGH TO BE A QUALITY ROCKER. The only thing they can be at that price is offshore junk made in China or elsewhere on the Pacific Rim. Good parts cost good money. Now, see if you can find us a set of Harland Sharp rockers at a good price.

PART # RATIO STUD APPLICATION
S4603 1.7:1 7/16 Brodix T1F

http://www.harlandsharp.com/originalseries3.htm

Attachment 16113

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stroked95gt

PART # RATIO STUD APPLICATION
S4603 1.7:1 7/16 Brodix T1F

http://www.harlandsharp.com/originalseries3.htm

Attachment 16113

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If you want a good rocker arm check out the Scorpion roller rockers.They have a lifetime warranty on them.You can buy them for $200 or maybe a little less if you look.
We run these in our IMCA engines lap after lap at well over 7,000.
If you are going to run any roller cam get the 7/16'ths stud.

Eric, this thread is all about finding out what will work with what. I've never built one of these 435 monsters and maybe nobody else on this forum has either, so if it's o.k. with you, we'll take suggestions from the board about parts that will do the job. I know Harland Sharp rockers will stand up because I've used them before, but Erik Erickson has come up with a recommendation for Scorpion rockers. You can't say they won't stand up if they will run circle track at 7 grand, so we'll go with Erik's Scorpions. Does anyone have good or bad to say about either the Dart or the World aftermarket block?

Ok this is what i found for scorpion Roller rockers.

Small Block Ford 7/16
Part # Application Description Price
SCP1080 Ford V-8 289-302-351W 1.5 SBF 7/16 Rocker Arms $236
SCP1085 Ford V-8 289-302-351W 1.5/1.6 SBF 7/16 $192
SCP1087 Ford V-8 289-302-351W 1.5/1.65 SBF 7/16 $192
SCP1018 Ford V-8 289-302-351W 1.6F SBF 7/16 Rocker Arms $236
SCP1070 Ford V-8 289-302-351W 1.6F/1.72F SBF 7/16 Rocker Arms N/A
SCP1020 Ford V-8 289-302-351W 1.72F SBF 7/16 Rocker Arms $236
SCP1067 Ford V-8 289-302-351W 1.65 SBF 7/16 $192

So we have all the sbf 7/16 we will have to choose one once we have the block and cam setup decided.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stroked95gt

Due to the amount of material we need to remove from the cylinders, we recommend an aftermarket block such as DART or WORLD. Rev limit would be determined by your valve train setup (rev kit, etc.), however we do not recommend going higher than 6,500 without a rev kit.

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If you can keep the rpm's at 6,500 a hyd. roller cam would work fine.
I you want to twist it tighter than 6,500 than you should look at mech. roller cam's.

ok. This is going to be a drag motor but i want to be able to run it around town during cruise night. what do u suggest? cam wise i am building a 435 stroker.