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I am looking for the one that goes all the way around the oil filter. I have seen the drop in type (too hard to get out) the speaker magnet type and several others. Even HD has them now. This one is a little pricy. Any thoughts or opinions? I did seach FAQ
magnatism has to pass thru the body, I doubt it will work as well as drop in type. your throwing the old filter away, just cut the filter in half and retrive it. personally, I'd put a magnent in the oil pan and put a filter screen on the filter enterance.
I see what you mean, thank you.
Magnetic drain plugs work well too.
forgot about those. inexpensive too.Quote:
Originally Posted by viking
Mopar PS pump comes with 1 inside. Little bigger than a quarter and twice as thick. Strong little sucker that would be good in the oiL pan. :) Found these drop ins tonite on E..., $ 10 for 9 mags.
*update 10.12.06 * Got these in the mail today. They measure 3/8" x 3/8" x 1-1/4". Waiting for a oil pump rebuild kit to drop the oil pan, then I will JB weld one in the pan and drop one in the filter. Claims to remove 99.1% of the micro fine metal particles.
They look good, I like the internal ones. As I have allways wondered with the external ones that. They sort off do their job. I hav e seen that they just rely on thier magnetism to stay attached to the filter. My question is what happens if you hit a big solid bump or a pothole, the magnet falls off and a whole lot of filings are suddenly released into the oil flow ????
That would be the worst case scenario. Also I read that rare earth mags loose their strength above 180 degrees. Anyway, I ordered the 9 pack and I plan on changing my filter after 300 miles (new valve job) so I'll do a visual and keep you posted.
So if the magnet comes out hairy ! then you know it has done it's job.
I stuffed one in between the lid and screen, then made these bends to hold it captive in case the magnet looses it's pull. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Matt167
Here's a thought. Why are we concerned about a magnet being placed into a system that has non-magnetic particles floating around. Please understand my line of thought here. If it's magnetic, your engine is trashed. Either your machine shop was lazy on a Friday afternoon or there are peices letting go inside your motor that a magnet can not stop the carnage. Think about this for a sec......if any magnet you place in the system has a science project attached to it, do you feel the miracle of the magnet is going to stop the demise that this engine is under? Bearing peices are not going to be picked up or stopped, they have no qualities to follow this line of thinking. If the science project exists, you're problem lies elsewhere and faith healers and superstitions will not help. There is a major concern for the life of the thing at that point. If there is by chance a small deposit on the magnet, I would be gravely concerned about my machine shop or my skill in assembly and geometry setup and I know I'm going to eat this motor, sooner or later, but I'm gonna have to eat it. I would like to hear from all here on the forum and see what the opinion is concerning snake oils and gadgets sold to make money when the concern during the build of the project should have been the objective. I'm venting and ranting, sure. I have more faith and experience in my builds and projects to not worry or want my clients to worry about installing something that doesn't save the engine but rather made a small fortune on selling the thing to a paranoic market.
timing gear failure, mis-matched aftermarket parts. :(
If there are filings in the engine, the pump is the first thing they pass through on the way back to lubing the engine. I don't see a magnet catching every particle in the oil as it passes by it. Oil is designed to suspend particles and the oil is moving past the magnet fairly fast. Best way to remove the particles is a tear down. IMHO.
I see what you mean. Thanks for the solid. :D :D
I can see some value in a magnet on a fresh rebuild, to catch the fine stuff caused by the breaking-in process.
Your local ranch supply store will supply you with cow magnets (drop in magnets) for about 50 cents each. I don't use them because the ferrous materials have already gone through the pump causing damage and if the filter is doing its job the crap is going no further.
I drop a two"x 1/4" in the pan in front of the pickup on rebuilds and a magnetic drain plug. If the plug has more than just a bit on it I start saving for the next rebuild.:mad:
I'm afraid by the time the engine gets to kicking out pieces of metal that are magnetic it's a bit too late for that engine anyway... Kind of like the idiot light that comes on just after the engine runs out of oil and grenades!!!!!
:LOL: :LOL: Should make a little light up display tied to the oil pressure light that says. Sorry, we have some disappointing news for you. :CRY: :LOL:
About the only time a magnet MIGHT be useful is right after a full rebuild with a bore job or possible a hone to pick up some very small particles left after a full wash out with detergent. But that's why you have a (hopefully) 5 micron oil filter (.000197/in) to pick out all that suspended crud. If it's smaller then that, it isn't going to hurt much. :eek:
You DID wash it out with detergent, and you did clean and wire brush all of the oil passages didn't you??:D
As far as picking up bearing babbit - not with a magnet - tin/lead/antimony with possibly a copper backing adhering to a steel shell. If you get to the steel bearing shell - who cares, the engine is junk by that time and if at a track, oiled and debris it down:CRY: .
magnets seem to be important on new cars...... when i do oil changes in the shop(which is hardly ever) i always get crap on the magnetic plugs, even on first oil changes...... especially on GM and Toyota cars.... maybe its something to do with how they build them.... but thats my 2 cents
That is what my point was - a fresh machining of cast iron + no detergent wash = iron particles on a magnet.Quote:
Originally Posted by thesals
After the 2nd oil change, probably little or nothing adhering to the magnet.
When the timing gears turned to dust the oil became permeated with carbide type particles. Starting it would be mechanical suicide. A tear down is in the works. Complete rebuild and detergent wash in progress as suggested. Thanks to everyone who replied.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
gonna do anything spicy with the rebuild or just gonna keep it the same?
Going with stock and NOS parts that I've been collecting over the years. The engine was supposedly rebuilt about 35k miles ago. I was happy with the mpg and performance before the meltdown.Quote:
Originally Posted by thesals