Anymore engine combos?

[BigTruckDriver]

I have looked at the ryanspage combos. Do you guys have any other links to others for a strip only ,light vehicle?

[Dave Severson]

Depends on what you want to spend.... If you want "the good stuff", as in American made crank and rods instead of the imports, check out the "max effort" Howards Cams stuff.

Competitionproducts.com

I've used one of there packages on a big Ford, still strong after 3 seasons!

[tango]

I could think of some good budget SB 350 Chevy one ? And they will push your Vega real good ! Do you know what size engine you want to run ? And what blocks and heads do you have to work with now ?

[BigTruckDriver]

Right now I have a set of Dart Pro1 215cc heads, 23 degree at 64cc's . The bigger the cubes the better, 383 ,or 406 stock block 2 bolt splayed and filled. I plan on using some nitrous also. I am also going to use a 8.5" wide slick for now also so some thing that I have to drop at 5000rpm might be a little much. Thanks

At what point do I need a Dominator carb? I found a good deal on a Super Victor intake for a dominator carb. I figure I could run a adapter for a square carb for now if need be.

[pat mccarthy]

you can get the dominator in a 750 but for a 1050 you would want to be over 400 CID i would i would think them heads would work on a smaller engine if your dumping NOs to it i would look at the dart block like the 434ft kit that comp sells and used a custom soild roller made for Nos and that would do the trick

[Dave Severson]

I guess if I were forced to run a sbc (highly unlikely) in a drag car, I think with the right cam and heads this would be one I would consider:

http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...umber=RATP406D

[tango]

I guess if I were forced to run a sbc (highly unlikely) in a drag car, I think with the right cam and heads this would be one I would consider:

http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...umber=RATP406D

And what do you think the right camshaft and heads would be ? Oh you will need an Intake / carb and dist To

[Dave Severson]

And what do you think the right camshaft and heads would be ? Oh you will need an Intake / carb and dist To

Well, seeing as how the last sbc I ran was in a sprint car in the late 70's I would call my favorite cylinder head shop, discuss with him what the rest of the engine is, the intended usage of the car, and that I am after consistent power rather then peak horsepower and have him pick me the correct heads then do the required tweaking of them on the flow bench.... I would also have him match and flow the intake for the engine then have him spec the mechanical roller cam to be compatible with the engine.... I prefer a good crank trigger setup on drag cars for the ignition and am currently running a carb out of the Vindicator shop....very pleased with it so I'd more then likely just buy another one.... I would suspect they would build me a 750 Dominator based carb that will have a real flow rate in the 780 to 810 CFM range....

I discovered years ago that going with the experts who deal with engines like this on a daily basis and have first hand experience with the components will yield the best results..... The last time I worked in an automotive machine shop and had access to a flow bench was better then 20 years ago so I'm quite sure the technology has changed considerably since then. Working with an expert who has a proven track record to me is a much more accurate way to get the correct components the first time then studying mounds of biased tech data and performance claims from the various manufacturer's.

When everything is blue printed, checked, rechecked, assembled, and in the car, and the initial run in and adjustments done my next stop is Andy's shop in Watertown for a few pulls on the chassis dyno then on to the track with a car that is built and tuned to the "kill" position and start laying down some very quick and repeatable passes!!!!!

[erik erikson]

I have looked at the ryanspage combos. Do you guys have any other links to others for a strip only ,light vehicle?

I know you have said it before but I will have to ask again.
What gear do you have?
What is your stall speed?
What is your vehicle weight?
Is this engine on pump gas or race gas?

[tango]

Well, seeing as how the last sbc I ran was in a sprint car in the late 70's I would call my favorite cylinder head shop, discuss with him what the rest of the engine is, the intended usage of the car, and that I am after consistent power rather then peak horsepower and have him pick me the correct heads then do the required tweaking of them on the flow bench.... I would also have him match and flow the intake for the engine then have him spec the mechanical roller cam to be compatible with the engine.... I prefer a good crank trigger setup on drag cars for the ignition and am currently running a carb out of the Vindicator shop....very pleased with it so I'd more then likely just buy another one.... I would suspect they would build me a 750 Dominator based carb that will have a real flow rate in the 780 to 810 CFM range....

I discovered years ago that going with the experts who deal with engines like this on a daily basis and have first hand experience with the components will yield the best results..... The last time I worked in an automotive machine shop and had access to a flow bench was better then 20 years ago so I'm quite sure the technology has changed considerably since then. Working with an expert who has a proven track record to me is a much more accurate way to get the correct components the first time then studying mounds of biased tech data and performance claims from the various manufacturer's.

When everything is blue printed, checked, rechecked, assembled, and in the car, and the initial run in and adjustments done my next stop is Andy's shop in Watertown for a few pulls on the chassis dyno then on to the track with a car that is built and tuned to the "kill" position and start laying down some very quick and repeatable passes!!!!!

Sounds Like a plan . And a few guy's will make some money building it ! But for Hot Rodders on a set Budget . it's not a good combo . If you have that kind of money to spend . May as well go out and buy a Dyno-ed crate Engine . But for me that take all the fun out of Hot Rodding a car . Back in the day we home built engines and they worked . And to day with more speed parts at hand . We can build even better engines at are homes . COOL

[erik erikson]

Sounds Like a plan . And a few guy's will make some money building it ! But for Hot Rodders on a set Budget . it's not a good combo . If you have that kind of money to spend . May as well go out and buy a Dyno-ed crate Engine . But for me that take all the fun out of Hot Rodding a car . Back in the day we home built engines and they worked . And to day with more speed parts at hand . We can build even better engines at are homes . COOL

Not trying to start a fight here.
If you order all these parts from $ummit or -egs then you assemble the engine yourself and then you fire it up and then you go out and test it.
How do you know if your A/F ratio is even close??
How do you know where to set your timing??
How do you know when you advance or retard your timing if it is helping or hurting your power??
Your not going to tell me you can tell by the "seat of your pants" are you??

[tango]

Yes and no . ( Seat of the pants ) and my 50-mile away( E.T Dyno ). But first I will have to pass the Tech-spec . But at that track they just check for drive shaft Loops .

[Dave Severson]

Sounds Like a plan . And a few guy's will make some money building it ! But for Hot Rodders on a set Budget . it's not a good combo . If you have that kind of money to spend . May as well go out and buy a Dyno-ed crate Engine . But for me that take all the fun out of Hot Rodding a car . Back in the day we home built engines and they worked . And to day with more speed parts at hand . We can build even better engines at are homes . COOL

Well, guess I didn't see anything about budget constraints..... Not all of us are satisfied with the performance level obtained from home porting some factory heads and bolting something together with stock rods, cheap pistons, and an out of the box Holley..... If that's what you want, that's fine... For me it's a case of been there, done that.... Once you buy the good stuff, pay the guys with the 5 axis CNC machine to do the machine work and porting, then go out and run in the 8's or 9's with a solid, reliable engine and drivetrain that is capable of repeating itself round after round it's tough to go back....

As I've said before, there is sooooooo much more to going fast then just the engine. When my budget is too small I either wait longer or do something to generate more revenue, but then we've had this discussion before and it went nowhere. And why not buy a dynoed crate engine??? If it matches the performance level I want at a price I'm willing to pay I know for a fact that I can't build the same engine for any less money!!!!!!

[Dave Severson]

Yes and no . ( Seat of the pants ) and my 50-mile away( E.T Dyno ). But first I will have to pass the Tech-spec . But at that track they just check for drive shaft Loops .

Generally on the chassis dyno we get everything tweaked in 2 or 3 pulls at a cost of about $200.00. To garner the same knowledge it would take a 65 mile tow to the track and probably half a dozen passes to achieve the same tune. When on the dyno, we don't have to wait in staging lines to make a pass, then hope to get some work done and get back in line to get a couple passes in before eliminations start. Been there, done that and hurried through the mornings' time trials and get in maybe 3 passes, shut the car off clean on the big end, tow it back, read plugs, try to get close on the jetting and timing then start 1st round of eliminations not having a firm handle on what the car is going to do performance wise. After our chassis dyno time we can go to the track, put down a pass or two and chart the performance off our old run sheets, make the necessary adjustments to compensate for weather and track changes and pull into staging for the 1st round of eliminations knowing what the car is going to do.... We don't lose money on the dyno time, it's just another tool to be competitive when it's time to race.... I'm not implying this is the only way to go racing, just that we've learned over the years that a properly prepared car is a competitive car and to achieve that you have to use every "tool" at your disposal.....

As for a track tech inspection that only checks for driveshaft hoops!!!!!!! Guess that would make me a bit nervous about what kind of junk the guy in the other lane is running and whether or not he can go through the quarter without bouncing off my car to get there!!!! IMO the tech guys are there to improve MY SAFETY on the track, and not just some source of aggravation........

[erik erikson]

Well, guess I didn't see anything about budget constraints..... Not all of us are satisfied with the performance level obtained from home porting some factory heads and bolting something together with stock rods, cheap pistons, and an out of the box Holley..... If that's what you want, that's fine... For me it's a case of been there, done that.... Once you buy the good stuff, pay the guys with the 5 axis CNC machine to do the machine work and porting, then go out and run in the 8's or 9's with a solid, reliable engine and drivetrain that is capable of repeating itself round after round it's tough to go back....

As I've said before, there is sooooooo much more to going fast then just the engine. When my budget is too small I either wait longer or do something to generate more revenue, but then we've had this discussion before and it went nowhere. And why not buy a dynoed crate engine??? If it matches the performance level I want at a price I'm willing to pay I know for a fact that I can't build the same engine for any less money!!!!!!

Dave,I wish you would tell all my customers that.
I am getting very tired of putting together junk that the customers thought would work.
Because some idiot on a phone at $ummit or -egs said it would.