Oil Pan..please help!

Hey guys...
So, I bought this oil pan from a very NOT-reputable shop and it came (I'm assuming) hot-tanked and cleaned.

However, there is a iron-oxide sort of sandy, gritty, powdery residue in the entire interior of the pan...is this ok?

No giant particles or anything, but powdered rust nonetheless...

Please tell me whether this is normal or if I should have it blasted or something.
Thanks!!!

-Zach C.
http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...9/42839f8e.jpg
http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...9/1a4dd35f.jpg

I'd scrub it out good with an abrasive pad and some WD40 or similar product to get any loose material out and rinse it good with WD40 or mineral spirits. I would not blast it if it were mine. Just my $0.02....

NEVER NEVER NEVER sand blast the inside of a oil pan.. never.. if it has any oil baffles in it. still do not like when guys blast a pan with out baffles there still the metal pad in the pan for the oil plug were fine sand can get under and come out .Sand is the last thing you want in a engines .... you get in there with soap and water with a 3 mm red pad or wire wheel on a hand drill till clean . just like cleaning a fry pan blow dry with air a hot tank will clean out a pan and some rust but that has abit to do with what soap was used in it if you do not wash the hot soap off by hot i mean caustic it will what they call.. bloom out ..and make fluzz white stuff on parts not wash good when out of the tank

The part about blasting is that the media raises tiny, almost microscopic cavities for no better word. These little cavities capture and hold the blasting media. This captured media is released once the engine gets hot and the oil will then circulate those nice sharp little chisels, beginning with the oil pump, then directly from there to those nice pretty cam and crank bearings. Once they get done there, then it's on to cam lobes, cylinder walls, rocker pivots......you get the picture now about media blasting oil covered parts:LOL::LOL:

Might even try oven cleaner followed by a hot water and soap wash (I like Tide) along with the 3M pads Pat recommended - just make sure you wear goggles and rubber gloves.

I've seldom seen anything come out of a "hot tank" that did not have residue on it, and had to be scrubbed with a brush or pads and soapy water. All the tank does is take away all of the loose dirt and loosen the crusty stuff so's it can be scrubbed off. After you wash it and have it nice and clean and shiny like new, lightly oil the inside, and the pan rail, and get some paint on the outside pretty quick so it wont flash rust on you.

the cleaner it is the quicker it rusts


so paint or oil it quikly

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rrumbler

I've seldom seen anything come out of a "hot tank" that did not have residue on it, and had to be scrubbed with a brush or pads and soapy water. All the tank does is take away all of the loose dirt and loosen the crusty stuff so's it can be scrubbed off. After you wash it and have it nice and clean and shiny like new, lightly oil the inside, and the pan rail, and get some paint on the outside pretty quick so it wont flash rust on you.

---

i have a 250 gallon hot tank i know what they can do with good soap. but your state may not let some stuff to be sold in that state EPA ? well mine with a good soap. i still can buy but could be fazed out any time is a zep soap. vat stripper . will eat rust most all of it .on rust the stronger the soap the more it will eat till it will turn a block blue .mild charge it will make it clean like new metal and like i said its very caustic can only be used on iron or steel . there many soaps out there after getting the wrong soap they said to me . i will love it... Nope . they pump there stuff out. it was very safe it was no more then simple green . vat stripper will bloom more on casting then tin if not wash with clean water and blow dry it will not rust very fast .but when blown clean i crc parts

Mix two parts water with one part molasses, fill the pan and leave it for a few days or a week would be better, rinse out with hot water and blow it dry with compressed air, it will be bran new, and the rust won`t come back before you install, a lot of restorers use this its also green waste safe. ( PS you might have to deal with ants tho):LOL:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 406Rich

Mix two parts water with one part molasses, fill the pan and leave it for a few days or a week would be better, rinse out with hot water and blow it dry with compressed air, it will be bran new, and the rust won`t come back before you install, a lot of restorers use this its also green waste safe. ( PS you might have to deal with ants tho):LOL:

---

well just brush the molasses strait on the pan and let all the ants eat it clean :whacked: they may eat the the old gaskets too:3dSMILE:

:LOL: thats great Pat, your starting to feel better....

It's not really....residue, but it's just a mildly abrasive feeling coating. when I rub my fingers on it real hard, they come off orange-rust colored. It's already been "hot-tanked" and it is supposedly "ready to be installed" so I guess I will just scrub what I can and then blow rinse, blow dry, and coat with oil until installation...

do the molasses trick it works .i pickup some evapa rust stuff long be for i knew of the molasses trick much cheaper . i would bet same thing as e vap stuff smell sweet and is sticky anyway s if there a baffle in that pan you need to get to the under side of it to get all grit out . i would say you did not get a hot tank job but a jet wash job and not a good one at that. i can get pans new with a E coated and new bolts.head bolts many times on some of this stuff it cheaper to buy new then clean it. i do this on some engines less it old engine and neeed the right bolts for the look

http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...9/c157ea9c.jpg
http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...9/ac61786c.jpg

so is it okay to have these 200grit scratches on the inner surfaces of my oil pan???

Thanks for yall's help through this ordeal!

-ZC

pan needs all that rust out looks like you did not try the molasses .yes grit marks will not hurt but makes it harder to clean. but you can not get in the seams that is why you need rust eater like molasses it is cheap and works or navel jelly .if you can not get that pan clean ..clean ..very clean .throw it away buy a new one .or just pay to have your engine rebuilt with all that junk thats going thru it with that pan if not clean .no way in hell i would not use that pan if you can not fill it with a cleaner like i listed .your never going to get to all the parts you can not see or get at

10-4....i will get some naval jelly or molasses....thanks for the help pat ;)