dunno which motor to put in my malibu...

Well i have read post over and over.. and man i am still throughly confused about what motor is the best for my car... right now im running a 355 pretty much stock.. i like the power it has but... im tryna figure out whats gonna give me muscle.. im not into big blocks yet.. i have hear that a pontiac 400 is a good torque motor..that i should keep my chevy 355 and build on it cause its good..and i have heard about 383 strokers but people all tell me they have to get rebuilt like every year if you drive it on a daily basis..

All in all.. im looking for something that when i shift my tranny down thas gonna really throw me back in my seat but with the reliabilty that i can drive it daily...

Just keep the 355 and put a nice intake manifold, headers, exhaust, 4 barrel carb on it and that will gain good HP right there. No need for a big block unless your going to race it and all. If you use this car as a everyday driver and all then stay with the 355. You will save gas money too. :)

well i actually have every upgrade you just said.. ihave stock heads on it and a lil over stock cam.. .so how much hp increase im looking at.. an whats a good cheaper set?

Look at some Edelbrock aluminum heads. If you already have a pretty good but mild cam then just leave it, especially for street use. Some others with more experience will probably have more info since they will know more than me so wait and see what they have to say.

If you are still running your T350 tranny, consider going to either a 700R4 or 200R4 over drive and then putting a lower gear in the rear end. That will give you a lot of punch on the street, but you will still be able to cruise at the same RPM you are now.

Pat

Yeah, I forgot that one. What kind of gears do you have in the rear now?

stock '79 Malibue should have 3.08's

Oh alright. Damn Matt, how do you know about things like that? lol You seem to know a lot about things that cars have in them when you don't even have one or haven't (meaning in a good way not bad).

Streets, some people can't afford everything. Who care's, even if he put a Caddie engine in it, as long as it makes him happy.

Quote:

---

I have heard about 383 strokers but people all tell me they have to get rebuilt like every year if you drive it on a daily basis..

---

Malibu,

Don't listen to the old wives' tales . . . unless it's your old wife.
:D There's a reason there are a lot of 383 strokers out there. They make a lot of power, they're inexpensive compared to many other motors and they're reliable.

Quit taking advice from whoever told you that you need to rebuild them every year. It's probably something they read on the internet, and it's total bullbleep. 383's are just as reliable as any other engine if built right and treated right.

Quit taking advice from anyone who's never built or used the engine you're talking about. Hands on experience counts. I'm not pointing fingers - just giving advice.

You can get 400+ horses out of a 383 with little effort and you don't even need laughing gas. On top of that, you don't have to keep your car out of service while you're getting it done. Drive it until the engine is ready, then get out the wrenches.

With good gears and a solid 383, you're going to need a headrest to keep your chin down, and a dose of bitters to keep the grin off your face.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
Oh alright. Damn Matt, how do you know about things like that? lol You seem to know a lot about things that cars have in them when you don't even have one or haven't (meaning in a good way not bad).

---

How I know a lot of stuff I know is from the past and some info from here and other internet sites when I was resaarching info on the '81 Impala parts car I had. Also, in the late 70's early 80's, the smog movement got stronger but was started in 1975 ( the first year a catalatic converter to be required for use in all new vehicles ), cars were not mean't for performance, they had high crusing gears and low performance, smog freindly engines, a common engine/ drivetrain combo was a 267 w/ th200 and 3.08 gears, was common in both Malibues and Caprice/ Impala's but, most larger chevy cars had 3.08's back then, my '81 Impala parts car had that combo.

Yeah not sure who told you about that 383 thing but I hear a ton of good things about 383's. My friend has one and never had any problems with his. As long as your crank is machined right and everything is up to specs and built good you shouldn't have any problems.
But I still think you should just keep the 355 and do what Stu Cool said. Also you never really specified what kind of power you are looking for? You wan't more of a bottom end kind or what?

Impressive matt. However, you have to consider that chevy had a few different rear ends available for that year. there is a possibility it could also have a 2:73 rear. Especially if it had a 305 and no OD.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by drg84
Impressive matt. However, you have to consider that chevy had a few different rear ends available for that year. there is a possibility it could also have a 2:73 rear. Especially if it had a 305 and no OD.

---

That's true, I was thinkin about puttin the info on the 2.73's, yes the 305 made a small amount of hp more and could therefore use a slightly higher gear ratio. the 305's are ither 125Hp or 145Hp and the 267 is 115Hp. theres only a diffrence of .35 in the gear ratio and 30 hp ( rated from 145Hp ) so it basicly is equal. I did those numbers as a theory really quick so, I don't know if they mean anything.

No, they mean quite a bit. Very cool. However, a lot of GMs are geared towards torque, not Hp. After all, theres no point in making a gearset on a car that only picks up at around 4000Rs

Quote:

---

Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
Yeah not sure who told you about that 383 thing but I hear a ton of good things about 383's. My friend has one and never had any problems with his. As long as your crank is machined right and everything is up to specs and built good you shouldn't have any problems.
But I still think you should just keep the 355 and do what Stu Cool said. Also you never really specified what kind of power you are looking for? You wan't more of a bottom end kind or what?

---

well yea im looking for that bottom end power.. but every now and then i do wanna be able to run out the track..

Yeah then gearing is the best thing to do at first. I know this isn't the same as a car but it works the same way but when I race motocross and people ask me what I think the best modification I can do to their bike to make bottom end better or anything I always tell them to gear it differenty like bigg sprocket in the back or such. Same will go with a car of course. Don't get nothing like 4.56 if your running on the highway and things like that a lot. But yeah an OD tranny would be sweet. I am trying to figure out if I wan't a 700R4 OD tranny or just a 400.

a 4.10 ratio would be the limit for street gears but even then, depending on trans ratio, you'd be doing 3500 RPM @ 60 MPH but is still fairly drivable.

FMX, how about putting a Muncie M22 Close ratio 4spd in your car instead of a automatic?. If your big blocking, the 700R4 may go bad eventully if the engine puts out enough torque and hp, it is not the best choice for a big block.

Matt,

It takes a pretty small tire to hit 3500 RPM @60 MPH - 22.5" to be exact.

With a normal size tire (28"), 60 mph = 2952 RPM.

the formula is: RPM = (336 x gear ratio x mph) / tire dia.

Also, I'm curious where your info on 700/R4s comes from.

Quote:

---

If your big blocking, the 700R4 may go bad eventully if the engine puts out enough torque and hp, it is not the best choice for a big block.

---

It's possible, and not horribly expensive, to build a 700/R4 to handle 600 HP. It's all in the setup and the cooling system. You can get one to handle 450 HP for a little over a grand, which will handle most street driven big blocks. A 630 HP unit goes for about $1300. The converter is extra, of course.

And that .70 overdrive ratio gives you a little over 2000 RPM @ 60 MPH with 28" tires and 4.10 gears. Go to 3.73's, and you drop to 1875 RPM.

Further, in first gear, a 700/R4 with 3.73 gears is equivalent in final drive ratio to a Muncie with 5.18's.

Henry, what would you reccommend if I wan't this car for a street/strip car. I will only drive it on the weekends and once in a while but mostly at the strip. Automatic or manual? Also should I look into just getting a already built up tranny from Summit or something?
Any info is greatly appreciated. Oh also what gears as well do you think would be good for good low end hard launches and all? Like I said, this car won't be an everyday drive or nothing, just something to cruise in once in a while and take to the hot rod meets around here and the rest of the time at the strip.

3.73's would be a more street drivable gear ratio but the 4.10 would remain fairly good street ratio but would gain a little better ET at the track

FMX,

To be honest with you, I can't tell from post to post what the heck you want to do with this car. Are you building a street rod, a cruiser, a rat rod, a drag car? I've seen every one of these options in the last couple of weeks, and every one of them takes a different setup. People give you a combo to do one thing, and three days later, you're off on another track and want another ton of information on how to do something else. I'm willing to help, but man, you're wearing me out.

Now it's mostly for the strip? There's not enough information in your post to tell you much of anything. There are drag cars . . . and then there are drag cars. Class racer, bracket racer? How fast? 11's? 12's? 13's?. Do you REALLY want to go out less than a dozen times a year and spend the rest of the time fixing parts and trying to get it running consistently?

Henrey, I got that info off Trucks, they were building copperhead, the 1967 Chevy c10 powered by 572 620 horse street engine Stacey said it would be nice for a 700r4 overdrive but the trans woulden't take it because they were weak, they put an overdrive unit on a 400. I'd trust you first though, seems as though sometimes, shows like that want you to buy the billion dollar peices they use on the show and they say the lower dollar peices won't work when, often they will.

Henry, I don't wan't it to be a rat rod now. I just wanted to see some idea's of what this car would look like rat rodded but not worth it to me. Now I don't wan't a full out drag car here. Just something like I said that will be cruised around and taken to the strip about every other weekend or so to the local tracks. I would like to run in low 12's or 11's, that would be nice but I think you may get what I mean now. Sorry about all the stuff I post all over but mostly I am just trying to find out about the brakes, chassis, rear end, etc. I already know how I wan't the car to look and sit so that's out of the way, I know what size tires I will put on now and that's out of the way and almost got the money for that.

FMX, while I admire your eagerness and exuberience on your build, you got to realize that before you start a build you have to have it planned out. You can't start buying parts here and there until you know exactly what you need to build what you want. Otherwise you are going to end up buying a lot of stuff (if you change your plan in mid stream) that you don't need and believe me you are going to end selling them for a substantial loose.

Set down, write up your plan for the car, figure what you need and buy only that. You have to have a goal or it's never going to get done. Just a word from the "been there, done that" generation. :) :)

Thanks for the tip there Fordman. I have done that actually. Only thing that I have not planned out yet is the brakes and how I am going to tub this thing out and suspension. I need to get my front end taken care of and then the rear end. I know most of the stuff I wan't now but need more info on the rear, etc. One more quick question before I forget, my upper ball joint on the car is rivetted in instead of pressed in so does that mean I need a whole upper arm instead or what would I do if I drilled them out and took the old ones out, how would the new one's stay held in?

Quote:

---

Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
One more quick question before I forget, my upper ball joint on the car is rivetted in instead of pressed in so does that mean I need a whole upper arm instead or what would I do if I drilled them out and took the old ones out, how would the new one's stay held in?

---

No, you cut the rivets and then the new ball joints bolt in using high grade bolts that come with them. To order the new joints you need to know approximately what car the front end came out of. I remember you said it wasn't original. In the old days, we used to chisel the heads off, then warm rivets up with a torch and drive them out with a hammer and punch. Now adays it's a lot easier with air tools. Air chisel the heads off and air punch the rivets out. Quick, easy and efficient.

so the 700/r4 and the 3.73 gear setup is whats is pretty much need to be able to drive the car and get some power down at the track.. now as far as the engine is concerned im goin with a 383..i just found out that my block is a 2 bolt block..and since its bored .30 ova already, i dont wanna have issues with overheating if it has to be bored more..

So NOW ladies and gents.. if i want a reliable 383 motor should, can i keep my stock 350 heads.. and buy a short block to save a lil cash right off. and get better heads later.. or is that a no go.. and should i buy a engine rebuild kit, or just take it to a shop and have em do it? any suggestion of sites that em for a good price.. to tell the truth right now as this point in time i have 1800..and im tryna get my car to run soon..

Malibu,

An assembled short block is going to run you $1,800 - $2,000. A stroker kit would run $600 - $900, then you've got some machine shop costs to add on top of that. If I were going to a stroker, I would buy a reputable stroker kit, have the block machined to fit, and do the assembly myself. However, if you chose to go that way, you need to make sure the block can be bored out to .060 BEFORE you buy the kit - otherwise, you're going to be looking for another block.

However, think about this. An upgraded cam and some good heads would make a massive improvement in your 355 for a lot less money. Something like a Performer RPM intake, cam and head combo. If you've got a good intake manifold, the cam and head combo would work. Edelbrock 7102 cam & kit ($188) and 60719 heads ($489 Each). Good from 1500 - 6500 RPM.

If you want to add more rump-rump (2500 - 6500 RPM) and less street driveability, the Torker II package - same heads, different cam (#5002 - $178) and Torker II single plane manifold (#5001 - $96).

There are choices . . . and there are choices.

Thank you for the help again Fordman, I will do that. My front end is a 79 Z28 and I am going to get a super front end kit from P-S-T.

FMX,

You shouldn't even need a torch. If you centerpunch the rivets, then use a drill several sizes larger than the rivet, you can drill down just until the head falls off, then knock it out with a punch. Just make sure you dont drill too far.

I assume you know about pickle forks . . .

Yeah I know about pickle forks. I won't need one right now I don't think. But yeah I am just going to take the head off the rivet and then just hit it out or use my new 12 ton press I am getting and just put something on top and press it out if I can. No big deal, I'll find a way to do it. I had to put some upper and lower control arms and all on an explorer today and was a pretty big pain in the butt so I guess that just got me read for mine which will be worse I am sure. :)

FMX, henry is right, I guess. Back remember I said "in the old days" we didn't have drill bits that sharp or that strong. The bits most of us could get our hands on would be totallly dull after the first rivet. I still think that air tools are the way to go. But use what you got. It still is the same answer. Cut the rivets and bolt in the new ball joints.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Henry Rifle
Malibu,

An assembled short block is going to run you $1,800 - $2,000. A stroker kit would run $600 - $900, then you've got some machine shop costs to add on top of that. If I were going to a stroker, I would buy a reputable stroker kit, have the block machined to fit, and do the assembly myself. However, if you chose to go that way, you need to make sure the block can be bored out to .060 BEFORE you buy the kit - otherwise, you're going to be looking for another block.

However, think about this. An upgraded cam and some good heads would make a massive improvement in your 355 for a lot less money. Something like a Performer RPM intake, cam and head combo. If you've got a good intake manifold, the cam and head combo would work. Edelbrock 7102 cam & kit ($188) and 60719 heads ($489 Each). Good from 1500 - 6500 RPM.

If you want to add more rump-rump (2500 - 6500 RPM) and less street driveability, the Torker II package - same heads, different cam (#5002 - $178) and Torker II single plane manifold (#5001 - $96).

There are choices . . . and there are choices.

---

Well see the issue is that either way i go i have to get this engine rebuilt :CRY: my bearings are spun , i have never assembled a motor before :HMMM:, my block is know is a high nickel 101 block (no sure about the 101 number), I like the suggestion about the cam and heads im gonna keep that in mind,

So Now, what do you think if i have to rebuild the motor, you think i should stay around the 355, or just go ahead and stroke it to a 383-388.. and can i used my 350 heads???

It just snowed here in kc, and i was just about to pull the motor out, i think imma tear it down myself...

If the crank can be saved, I'd stay with the 355. It saves parts $$$.

I don't know what heads you have, but if they aren't Chevy high performance heads, changing the cam and intake won't do you much good. An engine is just a big air pump. Air goes in . . . air goes out. The components need to match, or the pump chokes. The Edelbrock heads are to match their cam and intake. The Chevy heads may not be.

What heads are they? Casting number?

And, hey . . . you gotta build your first engine sometime. Get a good book on rebuilding small block Chevys. If you don't want to chance it, get the cam and kit, get the short block built, then install the rest yourself.

thing is, if i get my shortblock rebuilt how is it gonna save me money vs getting a stroker kit?... they charged around 1,000 to rebuild my cousins 400 block (included their own kit. stock)...and if i have to bored .60 what do i need to stop my block from running hot?

putting a motor together doesnt seem too hard but id rather wait to get another block to play with first...

With a stroker kit, you buy rods and a crank - which you don't have to buy if you rebuild your motor (assuming your rods and crank are OK.)

If you rebuild your motor, all you need is rings, bearings, pistons, pins, rings and gaskets.

Both of them take a similar amount of machine work.

If it cost a grand to rebuild stock, it's going to cost more than that with a stroker. There are more parts.

I really can't tell you much more than that. Tear the engine down, go to a reputable machine shop, and ask them what the two different options would cost.

As to overheating . . . if there's enough meat in the cylinders, and you have a good radiator, you should be OK.

OK, now i understand what you are talking about, now with the rebuild is it smart for me to take them a kit or go ahead and have them use their kit.. i have another crank even if mine is shot... and since i have a 355 right now..what do i get if its bored .60 ova.. right now i have a regular radiator, and a electric fan..

so imma go ahead and pull my motor soon, are there any parts/bolts that i need to save...when i take it apart that i should be careful not to loose?

Save every bolt... Put them in ziplock baggies and mark the name on it. Don't throw any bolts away or nothing because you may need to make sure the new ones are the same as the old or anything else.