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Denny, i have both starters out and i looked at them both and the starter gear is inside of the starter and it doesnt move freely. When i apply power to the starter the gear moves out and then returns back with no problems....Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
Why not test the starter you have off ? Is the starter bendix (over running clutch) in the out position (you can see the gear, and it's against the end of the nose cone), or is it in ?
yup it is a 2 bolt starter.. one bolt comes from the starter side in to the bell housing and the other bold comes from the bell housing into the starter...
i tightened both of them up as tight as they will go. is the fly whell flexing in ward when there is power put to it.. do you think i should shim it out. It starts just fine and the start disengages .. its just when i give it power you hear it catching on the teeth of the fly wheel and when you turn the motor off at the time you can hear the starter gear slowing down..
let me know
thanks again
wow i didnt know it would be that invlovled.. do you think it needs a shim.. i was jsut throwing out ideas..Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
Like around here. You have to have the ridge around the nose to locate it properly in the trans plate also. Double check the aluminum plate between the trans and the motor, and make sure it's not the problem. You do have that plate there ?
I t does have the metal plate btween the block and the bell housing.. could that be causing the problem. .. I wish you could here the noise it make when you rev the engine.. it sounds like the fly wheel is just skim ing the teeth on the starter... it sounds horrible.
why do you think its only when i increase the RPMs this is happening.. god this sucks. I really dont want to creat a shim.. i dont have the tools to cut the sheet metal
let me know if you have any other ideas what it could be..
p.s. thanks so much for the great pictures.
CaneBreak is there some way you could loosen the starter up after you start the motor and pull it away from the motor and see if the noise goes away, or shim it out some with the washers just to try it. you cant leave it like that but you should be able to try it. im not sure its the starter.
well, i went to advance auto and they happen to have a shim that fit ford starters.. it when the whole way around the front flange of the starter and it worked..
phew.. so i took it to the lake and now quess what. I guess from all of that back firing the intake manifold gasket is leaking.. that is about it ..nothing else went wrong.. what happens when that gasket leaks.. can it mess up the tuning of the engine. It ran pretty good but i need to replace it...
also can you all give me a good way to adjust all of the air mixture screws.. what is the best way to dial those in to the best performance
well so close now.. i cant beleive it ran as good as it did.
thanks for all of your help guys.. if it wasnt for this board i would have had to pay someone or the boat would never be where it is
I don't know about the rest of the guys, but I use a vacumn guage and adjust for a steady reading at the highest vacumn.
dont know about the rest, but my bill is in the mail. boat labor ant cheap. :LOL: :cool: just joking!!! glade the starter fixed it, but you need to replace the gaskets before you run it anymore.
LOL, i know i wouldnt beable to have done this without you guys.. thanks again..Quote:
Originally posted by lt1s10
dont know about the rest, but my bill is in the mail. boat labor ant cheap. :LOL: :cool: just joking!!! glade the starter fixed it, but you need to replace the gaskets before you run it anymore.
ok i have antoher question for ya. I am having a hard time breaking that intake manifold free. I have taken out all of the nuts and bolts that hold it on the block, but it wont budge. I dont want to force anything between the block and the intake .. do you all have any suggestions of what i can do to get it off of there..
i have tried tugging and pulling and she is not coming off..
what do ya think
I don't know if this will help, but I recently tore the 318 down in my Duster for a cam change. The manilod wouldn't budge until I pulled the plugs, then it popped right off.
Quote:
Originally posted by NTFDAY
I don't know if this will help, but I recently tore the 318 down in my Duster for a cam change. The manilod wouldn't budge until I pulled the plugs, then it popped right off.
now thats a new one NTFDAY. :HMMM:
Is there supposed to be 12. I will go look and see how many i took off. I know this it is on there good, i will double check to make sure i got them all.Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
Are you sure you have only 12 bolts ? and have you double checked to make sure you have no brackets, or additional bolts still installed ?
Take a slim blade putty knife, and a small hammer, and work your way around the intake tapping the putty knife in a little at a time, and moving around the intake to break it loose.
UPDATE:...
ok i got the intake off.. damn guy must have used some good ass rtv gasket on it.. it was the yellow kind..
ok now where do i need to put RTV gasket sealer ( i have the black) .. do i need to put it on both sides of the new gasket or just one side... and how much of it.. i was going to put a thin coating..
also you mentioned something about a tightening order.. What is the order.
"yellow kind.. "
It's called Gorilla Snot.
i have the black rtv.. will that work as well...also please see above postQuote:
Originally posted by techinspector1
"yellow kind.. "
It's called Gorilla Snot.
*** well i jsut opened the new intake gastket box and it is different than what the guy i had build it put in there. The difference is the new gasket has a metal pan that joins the 2 gaskets together.. the ones i jsut took out are seperate ( meaning there is no metal pan that connect the 2.. is it ok to install the one i just bought ( the ones that have the metal pan that connects the 2..
here is a picture http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...php?photo=6725
one on left: is one i removed
middle is new on with pan ( seems to be all metal even that gaskets)
far right is new one with out pan ( metal and rubber on outside)
what one would you use and should i use rtv black around the the whole seal.. or what would you use to help creat a better seal
i dont think it ever ends..
denny, engine has no cover over it it is in the open and i run it about 150 degrees FQuote:
Originally posted by DennyW
What kind of cover do you run over the motor, and what is the lowest temp you run the boat ?
should i use that Rtv gasket or leave that stuff off of it
thanks
man